Need serious help on brake issue - Race experience preferably

Cranberry · 08-21-2018, 08:38 AM

So after a year of heat issues i was always forced to bring the 370 into the pits after 4 - 6 laps. I am very happy to say after this weekend and several thousand dollars in heat related upgrades i was able to do a full 20 minute session (32 laps) with my oil and engine temps well below worry levels

I did however run into another heat issue non engine related.... BRAKES!!!!

I currently am running factory calipers (not the akebono) with M sports drilled slotted rotors as well as M sport pads. The lines are all upgraded to SS and the fluid is race spec almost boil proof. I carry race experience for several years and am fully aware of regular break fade and adjusting for it by the end of the last few laps but what i experienced on the weekend was beyond anything i have experinced before.

By lap 11 coming into the fastest corner my breaks were to the floor at only about 80% grab and by corner 2 only carried about 40% grab. If corner 3 required any breaking like 1 or 2 i would probably be loosing time on the runs.

Its obvious the calipers are over heating and not displacing propperly.

Leading to my main question. Now keep in mind this is legit race related. I dont care about street squeek, i care about the breaks actually handling 28 laps of hard breaking that usually requires a pad replacement by 75 - 100 laps.

From people who carry track experience. Will the akebono handle the heat with Hawk HP plus or somethign more aggressive? Or should i just spend the extra $2500 and go right to a BBK?

I ran Brembos at 6 piston on the fronts on a diffrent car years back and would never experience break fade till after 35 - 40 laps and even at that it was no more then a 10 - 15% loss, easly adjustable in the foot. But i have never ran akebono and am curious if others feel they can actually handle the stress....

Greatly appreciate the help on this one!

2011 Nismo#91 · 08-21-2018, 10:17 AM

The M compound (SSM) has been known for its extremely low levels of dust, low noise levels, and long life characteristics. Many consider this the highest grade brake pad for street-type conditions. Very popular amongst car show users and high-end vehicle owners that care very much about maintaining clean wheels and an overall clean look. Part of the Non-Steel Series, Endless uses a Non-Steel Developmental Process with a new, mild ceramic material to increase rotor friendliness. With no steel materials, dust is minimal and rusting is prevented, enabling ease of cleaning wheels (even with water).

Street Pads won't work well on the track. Swap your pads to track pads when you are going to the track and report back.

cv129 · 08-21-2018, 10:47 AM

Curious, some questions:

Do you have brake cooling ducts? I don't see it on your mod list and can't see from your youtube video.
Do you run Nitrous on the track? 381whp can be handful on the base brakes.

With the "race experience" you described, perhaps invest in some temperature paint and infrared heat gun so you know how hot your rotors and calipers are really getting.

Spooler · 08-21-2018, 11:58 AM

The Track section of this forum is your friend. Do a search in there. Many threads on this issue. Days of reading.

Rusty · 08-21-2018, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91

The M compound (SSM) has been known for its extremely low levels of dust, low noise levels, and long life characteristics. Many consider this the highest grade brake pad for street-type conditions. Very popular amongst car show users and high-end vehicle owners that care very much about maintaining clean wheels and an overall clean look. Part of the Non-Steel Series, Endless uses a Non-Steel Developmental Process with a new, mild ceramic material to increase rotor friendliness. With no steel materials, dust is minimal and rusting is prevented, enabling ease of cleaning wheels (even with water).

Street Pads won't work well on the track. Swap your pads to track pads when you are going to the track and report back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cv129

Curious, some questions:

Do you have brake cooling ducts? I don't see it on your mod list and can't see from your youtube video.
Do you run Nitrous on the track? 381whp can be handful on the base brakes.

With the "race experience" you described, perhaps invest in some temperature paint and infrared heat gun so you know how hot your rotors and calipers are really getting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

The Track section of this forum is your friend. Do a search in there. Many threads on this issue. Days of reading.

Brake cooling ducts are a must.

https://www.stillen.com/brakes/other...ssan-370z.html

Ti heat shield for when you up-grade to the 'bono's.

https://hardbrakes.com/index.php?mai...roducts_id=106

If you got the coin.

https://www.stillen.com/brakes/brake...ssan-370z.html

08-21-2018, 08:38 AM	#1 (permalink)
Cranberry Base Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Winnipeg Posts: 89 Drives: 2009 370Z Touring Rep Power: 701	Need serious help on brake issue - Race experience preferably So after a year of heat issues i was always forced to bring the 370 into the pits after 4 - 6 laps. I am very happy to say after this weekend and several thousand dollars in heat related upgrades i was able to do a full 20 minute session (32 laps) with my oil and engine temps well below worry levels I did however run into another heat issue non engine related.... BRAKES!!!! I currently am running factory calipers (not the akebono) with M sports drilled slotted rotors as well as M sport pads. The lines are all upgraded to SS and the fluid is race spec almost boil proof. I carry race experience for several years and am fully aware of regular break fade and adjusting for it by the end of the last few laps but what i experienced on the weekend was beyond anything i have experinced before. By lap 11 coming into the fastest corner my breaks were to the floor at only about 80% grab and by corner 2 only carried about 40% grab. If corner 3 required any breaking like 1 or 2 i would probably be loosing time on the runs. Its obvious the calipers are over heating and not displacing propperly. Leading to my main question. Now keep in mind this is legit race related. I dont care about street squeek, i care about the breaks actually handling 28 laps of hard breaking that usually requires a pad replacement by 75 - 100 laps. From people who carry track experience. Will the akebono handle the heat with Hawk HP plus or somethign more aggressive? Or should i just spend the extra $2500 and go right to a BBK? I ran Brembos at 6 piston on the fronts on a diffrent car years back and would never experience break fade till after 35 - 40 laps and even at that it was no more then a 10 - 15% loss, easly adjustable in the foot. But i have never ran akebono and am curious if others feel they can actually handle the stress.... Greatly appreciate the help on this one! __________________ 2009 370z M/T - straight pipe cut outs / motordyne test pipes & intake manifold / K&N typhoon intake / ACT stage 2 race clutch & flywheel / ZEX wet nitrous / UpRev tune / stillen race oil cooler / 317 WHP N/A - 381 WHP with ZEX www.youtube.com/danialk ///\\\///\\\ Follow me on Instagram @dankobra

08-21-2018, 10:17 AM	#2 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,381 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 33858	The M compound (SSM) has been known for its extremely low levels of dust, low noise levels, and long life characteristics. Many consider this the highest grade brake pad for street-type conditions. Very popular amongst car show users and high-end vehicle owners that care very much about maintaining clean wheels and an overall clean look. Part of the Non-Steel Series, Endless uses a Non-Steel Developmental Process with a new, mild ceramic material to increase rotor friendliness. With no steel materials, dust is minimal and rusting is prevented, enabling ease of cleaning wheels (even with water). Street Pads won't work well on the track. Swap your pads to track pads when you are going to the track and report back. JARblue, cv129, Rusty and 1 others like this. __________________ GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

08-21-2018, 10:47 AM	#3 (permalink)
cv129 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 3,192 Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo Rep Power: 159827	Curious, some questions: Do you have brake cooling ducts? I don't see it on your mod list and can't see from your youtube video. Do you run Nitrous on the track? 381whp can be handful on the base brakes. With the "race experience" you described, perhaps invest in some temperature paint and infrared heat gun so you know how hot your rotors and calipers are really getting. Rusty likes this. __________________ Setrab \| RE-71 \| SPL \| JRZ \| Nismo \| ARK \| Whiteline \| RacingBrake \| CJM Oil Pan \| Ti shield

08-21-2018, 11:58 AM	#4 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,516 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684391	The Track section of this forum is your friend. Do a search in there. Many threads on this issue. Days of reading. Rusty and Hotrodz like this.

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