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Braking bad...

Hi Guy's; I have a 2016 basic Z. 9,000 miles. For some reason the front inside pads are wearing out. I replaced the front pads 4,000 miles ago. Now 5,000

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Old 08-20-2018, 09:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Default 2016 front pad wear

Hi Guy's; I have a 2016 basic Z. 9,000 miles. For some reason the front inside pads are wearing out. I replaced the front pads 4,000 miles ago. Now 5,000 miles later I see the inside pads need replacing again. This will be the 3rd time at only 9,000 miles. The dealer is a hundred miles away plus I don't care for them. I have always done my own brake work. It is a 2nd car for me to keep my Mustang out of the rain. Car has never been driven hard. I'm 66 yr's old. Ha
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:41 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Seized brake piston?
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Old 08-20-2018, 12:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default brakes

No seized pistons. All my symptoms are indicative of a caliper not floating. Both sides are the same. Car is two years old with 9,000 miles.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Sounds like you might have some rust and corrosion built up on the slides. Is it just one caliper doing it, or both?
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Brakes

Yes both sides are the same wear. Is it normal for the inner pad to wear out ten times fast than the outer pads on this car.
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Old 08-20-2018, 08:14 PM   #21 (permalink)
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2016, with 9,000 miles. Is it a stick or auto? If it's an auto. Do you ride with your foot on the brake, or use a 2 feet driving style?
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I've seen a lot of cars where pad wear was uneven but I haven't seen many where the pads needed to be changed every 4-5k miles. First thing I would check is that the pads are installed properly with all required shims, keepers, etc.
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
I've seen a lot of cars where pad wear was uneven but I haven't seen many where the pads needed to be changed every 4-5k miles. First thing I would check is that the pads are installed properly with all required shims, keepers, etc.
My dad had one of the first VW Rabbits that came out of the Pa. factory in the mid '70's. It would go through front pads every 7,000 miles, and rotors at 14,000 miles. Front tires would last 10,000 miles. My dad never changes the rear brakes or rear tires the whole time he owned it. The dealer and VW couldn't find anything wrong with it. VW picked up the tab for the brakes ad rotors under warranty.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:35 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The fact that's it's happening on both sides is what has me puzzled. A sticking caliper or piston is usually on just one side. The more I think about it, the less likely it seems that it is a hydraulic problem (unless both calipers are plugged between the two sides and that's as unlikely as two frozen calipers/pistons). I'm inclined to believe that the root problem is poor braking habits, the uneven wear is normal and exaggerated by the accelerated rate of wear. YMMV
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:42 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
The fact that's it's happening on both sides is what has me puzzled. A sticking caliper or piston is usually on just one side. The more I think about it, the less likely it seems that it is a hydraulic problem (unless both calipers are plugged between the two sides and that's as unlikely as two frozen calipers/pistons). I'm inclined to believe that the root problem is poor braking habits, the uneven wear is normal and exaggerated by the accelerated rate of wear. YMMV
See post 21. If not that. Something is holding pressure in the front calipers when the brakes are released. ABS module? Master cylinder? The old Chevy Chevettes had the same issue. Found that the master cylinder rod was too long from the factory
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:59 PM   #26 (permalink)
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... Something is holding pressure in the front calipers when the brakes are released. ABS module? Master cylinder? ...
If it were at the master cylinder (too much pressure to front), I'd think OP would notice the front-to-rear imbalance. Maybe not - depends on driving habits. Still doesn't explain the uneven wear - wouldn't both pads experience the same high pressure?

I don't understand enough about how an ABS module does its thing to say this with any confidence but it seems to me that it would affect only one side. Even it is affecting both sides, it's the same piping/hose going to inner and outer sides of a caliper and shouldn't cause uneven wear.

How about rotors that are offset a little so that it rides closer to one set of pads? I doubt OP is unlucky enough to get two bad rotors.

But I'm just thinking out loud. I'm inclined to go with poor braking habits but wouldn't bet any money on it at this point.

Edit: I'm not saying it can't be stuck calipers/pistons, just that it would be unlikely for both sides to have the same problem. Both are relatively easy to check, so checking would be on my todo list - just not at the top.
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Last edited by SouthArk370Z; 08-21-2018 at 12:12 AM. Reason: Edited to correct mistakes in 2nd paragraph
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:29 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
If it were at the master cylinder (too much pressure to front), I'd think OP would notice the front-to-rear imbalance. Maybe not - depends on driving habits. Still doesn't explain the uneven wear - wouldn't both pads experience the same high pressure?

I don't understand enough about how an ABS module does its thing to say this with any confidence but it seems to me that it would affect only one side. Even it is affecting both sides, it's the same piping/hose going to inner and outer sides of a caliper and shouldn't cause uneven wear.

How about rotors that are offset a little so that it rides closer to one set of pads? I doubt OP is unlucky enough to get two bad rotors.

But I'm just thinking out loud. I'm inclined to go with poor braking habits but wouldn't bet any money on it at this point.

Edit: I'm not saying it can't be stuck calipers/pistons, just that it would be unlikely for both sides to have the same problem. Both are relatively easy to check, so checking would be on my todo list - just not at the top.

How can I say this and make sense. In the master cylinder. The porting is set up so that when you press on the pedal. The front brakes get pressure before the rear brakes. The front brake port opens first, then the rear port opens. If the piston doesn't come back all the way when you release the brakes. It will hold some pressure on the front brakes. This is what was happening on the old Chevettes. The brake rod from the pedal to the master cylinder should have a little play in it. Easy to check.
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:59 AM   #28 (permalink)
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How can I say this and make sense. In the master cylinder. The porting is set up so that when you press on the pedal. The front brakes get pressure before the rear brakes. The front brake port opens first, then the rear port opens. If the piston doesn't come back all the way when you release the brakes. It will hold some pressure on the front brakes. This is what was happening on the old Chevettes. The brake rod from the pedal to the master cylinder should have a little play in it. Easy to check.
Ah. I see what you mean. Sounds like something to check.
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