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Uneven tire tread wear LR tire?

We really going to go down multiple pages for a stanced tire wear issue. Sorry but thats stanced life, do stupid **** to your performance car and get **** results

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Old 11-07-2017, 03:32 AM   #31 (permalink)
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We really going to go down multiple pages for a stanced tire wear issue. Sorry but thats stanced life, do stupid **** to your performance car and get **** results what a shocker.
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Old 11-07-2017, 08:02 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Different strokes for different folks I guess.


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Old 11-07-2017, 11:48 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dragonbreath View Post
I'm unsure if this has been mentioned yet, but what kind of diff do you have? If you have a base model/open diff that could be your issue. One tire fire on that kind of camber can quickly eat at your tread in any kind of aggressive driving. Also, if you have a VLSD it could be worn out and functioning as an open diff. How many miles are on your car?


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I have a touring with sport package. But it’s stock besides exhaust, test pipes, intakes, coils, wheels and tires. And cosmetic mods. 60k on car. But yeah I could see one tire fire causing it. Never really burned out or did any donuts or anything. Like at all. Worse I do is 100 + pulls every now and then and take corners rather fast because it handles so well. And feels so planted. So not sure. Can’t I jack the rear up and spin one wheel and test if it’s open diff (worn out VLSD) ?
I believe it’s (open = I spin left wheel clockwise , the right wheel will spin opposite) (LSD/VLSD they will both spin same direction) ?

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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Not really. I've seen loose spherical bearings make no noise at all. His could be in the beginning stages. So not a lot of wobbling.
It was pretty easily moved under the car , wobbily as hell off the car like completely gone. And yeah no noise. Just slight squeak until I lubed it.

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Originally Posted by MaysEffect View Post
I don't think so. If it was a problem, you'd have tire scarring and marks. Also maybe a lot of wobbling and severe clacking noises at highway speeds.

To be fair, your toe is not ideal. Having the camber set so aggressively is actually masking this problem. It should be lower than .1 degrees. Preferably toe'd in. Adding toe in will also increase negative camber though
I’m going by Nissan today! I put OEM camber arms back on, car handles the same if not better. No wobbly feeling in rear. I think these arms are just sh*t and wore out. The bearing is def worn. Wobbily as hell.

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We really going to go down multiple pages for a stanced tire wear issue. Sorry but thats stanced life, do stupid **** to your performance car and get **** results what a shocker.
Hahaha I like this guy!

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Different strokes for different folks I guess.


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Old 11-07-2017, 06:38 PM   #34 (permalink)
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So update guys, I got my stock camber arms put back on. I was still at -4.5 and -4.3 in rear, completely stock everything except I still do have SPL camber bolts , just coilover drop. Pretty low. And so I got camber set at -3.5 in rear both sides. And -3.0 Front both sides.

Toe WAS WAY OUT!! I mean way out spec is like .16 and it was like 1.40 or something on both sides. So I got it set to .16 all around. Got green in toe all 4 corners. Camber is even -3 Front and -3.5 rear. And doesn’t look much different. Gonna be flipping tire Thursday when I’m off work. And ride on them until I order 2 new rear tires at beginning of next year. It was definitely a bad alignment caused by bad camber arm (Spherical bearing failure) I’ve contacted company to get a refund as they’re only 3 months old and failed. As well as stock camber arms are WAY less expensive, I don’t feel any difference in performance around corners. And I still have plenty of negative camber and good fitment in rear. So I’m a happy camper. Good alignment. Good specs for what I’m going for. And flipped to new side of tire. So back to good tread. That’ll last me rest of the year. I also did test while rear was up in The Air and my Nissan tech friend said the VLSD is just fine. Also since I put OE camber arms back in. I have no noise at all on small bumps. And much cheaper to replace when I need new camber arms / bushings.

Anyone know how long OEM camber arms bushings last?

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Old 11-07-2017, 07:31 PM   #35 (permalink)
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When you changed the camber arms. It also change the toe setting. So you don't know how far off the toe really was. When making alignment adjustments on the rear. When you make a camber change. You have to make a toe change too. One will effect the other to a degree.

The factory arms should last the life time of the car. But we all know that parts will fail before their time.
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Old 11-07-2017, 07:58 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:52 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
When you changed the camber arms. It also change the toe setting. So you don't know how far off the toe really was. When making alignment adjustments on the rear. When you make a camber change. You have to make a toe change too. One will effect the other to a degree.

The factory arms should last the life time of the car. But we all know that parts will fail before their time.
Yeah true! Lol well regardless it was clearly out if it was eating up tires! Well 1 tire. But regardless we’re at -3.5 rear and -3 Front now and perfectly in spec toe, and all that is in green. It even handles 10x better now. No wobbly feeling. I guess if I ever wanna go upgraded. I’ll do full camber arms, toe links, lock out kits all adjustment on arms. Probably upgraded end links and sway bar bushings as well. That’s only if my car starts needing them. Right now it feels tight and i don’t track car. So no need for it. I have 18 and 14k springs so it’s a stiff planted ride right now.

But thanks guys for all your help!
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