Rear differential bushing failure

Senna-F1 · 10-28-2017, 07:22 PM

Actually the tool gave me some trouble when it came to the larger rod and nut. Maybe my fault though. For those who don’t know, I’m the 2nd owner of the tool. The threads at then end got messed up. This shouldn’t happen normally because the instructions say to make sure you have like a ½ of thread or so before you start cranking. I must not have done that. I removed the nut and some of the rod thread was also embedded inside the nut. I didn’t think I’d be able to use it. Luckily I was able to get it all working. It took a 2 foot bar and my leg to press out the collar. At this point the nut seems fused to the rod so some of my power might have been fighting against a bad fitting nut. Definitely get a ratcheting breaker bar. I used amazon.

As for the collars I think they are doing great but I changed so much at once. The chassis certainly feels like it has less dive and squat. I will say they didn’t fit the way their video portrays them. Don’t don’t just slide in and give you a satisfying clink sound. Which makes it difficult to know if you’re getting the top collar in correctly. I still don’t know but everything torqued up to 81 ft lbs so...

-ZS-Carpenter · 10-29-2017, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senna-F1

Actually the tool gave me some trouble when it came to the larger rod and nut. Maybe my fault though. For those who don’t know, I’m the 2nd owner of the tool. The threads at then end got messed up. This shouldn’t happen normally because the instructions say to make sure you have like a ½ of thread or so before you start cranking. I must not have done that.

The larger rod should be bigger. I stretched it doing mine, one nut is fused to the rod and the other will barely thread on. Took a breaker bar and large ratchet to get it apart after getting the bushing out Still way better than hacking at it with a sawzall and chisels.

Kzonts · 10-29-2017, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senna-F1

Actually the tool gave me some trouble when it came to the larger rod and nut. Maybe my fault though. For those who don’t know, I’m the 2nd owner of the tool. The threads at then end got messed up. This shouldn’t happen normally because the instructions say to make sure you have like a ½ of thread or so before you start cranking. I must not have done that. I removed the nut and some of the rod thread was also embedded inside the nut. I didn’t think I’d be able to use it. Luckily I was able to get it all working. It took a 2 foot bar and my leg to press out the collar. At this point the nut seems fused to the rod so some of my power might have been fighting against a bad fitting nut. Definitely get a ratcheting breaker bar. I used amazon.

As for the collars I think they are doing great but I changed so much at once. The chassis certainly feels like it has less dive and squat. I will say they didn’t fit the way their video portrays them. Don’t don’t just slide in and give you a satisfying clink sound. Which makes it difficult to know if you’re getting the top collar in correctly. I still don’t know but everything torqued up to 81 ft lbs so...

Glad the tool survived a second round of abuse. Z1 does state that the tool will wear out and they sell a separate hardware kit which has new rods, washers and nuts. One can continue to reuse the housing parts multiple times.

k67p67 · 02-25-2018, 04:34 PM

Isn't this covered under our 3yr/36K and/or 5yr 60K powertrain warranty? Found this today. 2017 Nismo Tech with <18K miles.

jchammond · 02-25-2018, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k67p67

Isn't this covered under our 3yr/36K and/or 5yr 60K powertrain warranty? Found this today. 2017 Nismo Tech with <18K miles.

I would think so; though they wouldn’t replace it as others have/ they would replace the whole cross member & you’ll get the same oil filled bushing.
Maybe you can negotiate having them install an upgraded version (that you supply) and show them the thread on how it’s removed & installed.
Just a thought- because it will only fail again if oil filled bushing is put back in.

10-28-2017, 07:22 PM	#1 (permalink)
Senna-F1 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Cary, NC Age: 55 Posts: 425 Drives: 370SC,EliseSC,MR2T Rep Power: 52	Actually the tool gave me some trouble when it came to the larger rod and nut. Maybe my fault though. For those who don’t know, I’m the 2nd owner of the tool. The threads at then end got messed up. This shouldn’t happen normally because the instructions say to make sure you have like a ½ of thread or so before you start cranking. I must not have done that. I removed the nut and some of the rod thread was also embedded inside the nut. I didn’t think I’d be able to use it. Luckily I was able to get it all working. It took a 2 foot bar and my leg to press out the collar. At this point the nut seems fused to the rod so some of my power might have been fighting against a bad fitting nut. Definitely get a ratcheting breaker bar. I used amazon. As for the collars I think they are doing great but I changed so much at once. The chassis certainly feels like it has less dive and squat. I will say they didn’t fit the way their video portrays them. Don’t don’t just slide in and give you a satisfying clink sound. Which makes it difficult to know if you’re getting the top collar in correctly. I still don’t know but everything torqued up to 81 ft lbs so... JARblue and Kzonts like this. Last edited by Senna-F1; 10-28-2017 at 07:24 PM.

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