Stereo Integrity TM65 MkII drivers...

RonRizz

Awwwww Yeah !

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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

ChopsZ

Never did get around to installing the speakers today, but did install one sheet each of HushMat on the door panels. Oh, and the amp showed up today. It looks nearly new!









And that's a piece of fuzz on the top left of the image, not a scratch.

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RonRizz

Looks good. You may want to consider a higher x over point than 1.6k..... The tm65v2's are very capable of playing up well into the 2-2.5k range. Let the bigger cones handle the bigger part of your upper midrange. and your tweeters will love you for it.

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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

ChopsZ

My thing is, I want to keep my sound stage up high, which means more upper midrange and vocals up on the dash. That's why I like those Memphis drivers so much, because they allow me to do that, crossing over at 1.25 kHz.

I would probably have the M25's crossed at 2 kHz, which is still lower than most other tweeters out there. I tried the Memphis drivers at 2 kHz today for the heck of it, and it didn't sound too bad, although levels and EQ and TA would have to be tweaked for the new crossover points. I didn't bother but at least now know that it's doable.

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dvboy

I may be in the minority here,but I had the TM65 MKII in my car for a week and did not like them compared to my Hertz ml 1600 and ended up putting the Hertz back in.The TM65 did go a little deeper,but the Hertz had more slam,but the determining factor for me was the fact the Hertz just sounded more musical.

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ChopsZ

Not at all. Everyone's hearing and tastes are different. Since I've never heard Hertz speakers before, nor the particular model mentioned, I won't know if they sound better to me or not compared to the Stereo Integrity drivers.

All I know is that with the new head unit and all of the sound dampening done to the doors, the stock door speakers are performing amazingly well along with the little cheapie Memphis dash speakers. Treble is airy and smooth, midrange is crisp and dynamic, mid-bass is tight, punchy and detailed.

If I'm really enjoying what I'm getting now with around 15 watts of decent power and stock drivers in the doors and $40 drivers in the dash, then things are really going to improve drastically when I get those SI drivers in the doors and dash powered by 150 extremely clean and powerful watts.

In the end, no matter what you get, there's always going to be something else better out there. I'm not too worried about that.


BTW, do you have a build thread anywhere of your system? Just curious.

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dvboy

I agree with you on all points,there is a lot of people out there that love the TM65,and I am very much in the minority.Don't have a build thread,but I have the doors dynomated on the outside and inside door skins,as well as some in the back area.Most of my audio stuff is in my signature.Sometimes I wished I never started with my system as its been about a year of fiddling around with some frustration,but I do finally have it at a point where I can honestly say I'm good,no more

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Pioneer AVIC 8000NEX,Hertz ML 1600,ScanSpeak D3004,Audison AV 5.1K,Helix DSP.2,Illusion Audio L10 Sub,RJM Clutch pedal,Stillen G3 long tube intake,Nismo exhaust,AAM S-line axle back,Ecutek tune

DrNumbers

Lookin good man. I'm very curious to see how the sound deadening you did works out when you put in the SI drivers and more power. I've been looking a lot into how much we really need to sound deaden to get rid of rattles. Did you by chance put any foam on the plastic panels where it meets the door?

RonRizz

everyone hears things differently, and at the end of the day, its only your ears that matter.
The ML1600 are some kick *** speakers as well.

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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

ChopsZ

Thanks!

I'm curious as well. The dampening I did on the doors and door panels made a very noticeable improvement, and that's just with the stock drivers. Of course, stepping up to much better, stronger drivers and stepping up from 15 watts to 150 watts, I'm certain things are probably going to start vibrating and making noise.

And to answer your last question, no I haven't added any foam. Thinking about it though, I just might have to. But again, this system isn't being built for "loud". It's being built for SQ. At most, I'll probably be running a couple of 8" subs under a false floor.

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markesc

From my experience it's always a never ending battle, but the stock "system" I think does more hearing damage than anything else. I don't even bother with music on it, just some podcasts, as every other genre' = a painfully awful listening experience unless you're just sitting in your driveway.

Seems like a dedicated DSP may be a good investment for a car if you're really into it. I know having home studio speakers, it's really nice to have a flat fq response so there's more consistency from one type of music/song to the next. $$$.... Don't get into photography, it's the same never ending battle.

Random question: Is it better to apply the sound deadening to the door panel and outer door skin and to skip the inner door skin? Just want to avoid having to remove some to get the door panel seated back on properly. I have that GTMAT quadro, which is a lot lighter weight than I anticipated, but it may be enough to actually make a difference... or should I just buy a bag of concrete mix and fill the doors?

dvboy

In my opinion the outer door skin is more important,it's amazing how different the door sounds when u tap your knuckles outside the door when finished.U have to take the door panel off either way,may as well do both,probably pulled my door panels off 10-15 times,takes 2 min.

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ChopsZ

Pulling the door panel off and putting dampening on it and the door is the easy part. But getting access to the outer door skin, not so much.

From what I gather, you can't simply remove the access panel. You have to remove the window, and then the window regulator which is attached to the other side of the access panel. A lot more involved than I care to attempt on my own.

I wish the access panel was removable on its own. If it was, I would have lined the outer skin weeks ago!

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dvboy

If u remove the speaker u can reach your arm in there and get the job done,not easy but doable.

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Pioneer AVIC 8000NEX,Hertz ML 1600,ScanSpeak D3004,Audison AV 5.1K,Helix DSP.2,Illusion Audio L10 Sub,RJM Clutch pedal,Stillen G3 long tube intake,Nismo exhaust,AAM S-line axle back,Ecutek tune

RonRizz

even if you don't want to go through the task of removing the panel, ( and window does not have to be removed, by the way) reaching through the speaker opening and reaching what you can is far better than none at all.
you don't need 100% coverage for it to be effective.

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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals