Broken wheel stud and lug nut.

JoeyD · 04-02-2009, 02:38 PM

The dealer is taking care of it under warranty. The locking lugs are two pieces and the steel core is still attached to the remainder of the stud. The steel piece is perfectly round, so it can't be twisted off or tapped through. The only way to get it off is to use a "nut cracker" and crack it in half. Then the stud must will have to be tapped out and be replaced.

wstar · 04-02-2009, 03:44 PM

I have to guess that the stud in question was already cracked (or at least, weakened from stress) by over-torquing. Had you or the dealer removed that wheel for any reason, or was it likely last tightened at the factory?

This goes with my conspiracy theory about the factory over-tightening everything

I've only taken my front driver's wheel off so far (to remove the wheel well liner and reach through there while installing the headers), maybe I should go ahead and check them all like the paranoid fool that I am

ChrisSlicks · 04-02-2009, 03:49 PM

Not really sure how tight mine were, don't have a reverse torque wrench

All my wheels have been off the car and are currently torqued to 80 ft/lb, although I usually go to 85 at the auto-x and I check them part way through the event to make sure nothing has moved due to heat expansion.

04-02-2009, 02:38 PM	#1 (permalink)
JoeyD Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Raeford, NC Posts: 305 Drives: 09 NISMO 370Z Rep Power: 188	The dealer is taking care of it under warranty. The locking lugs are two pieces and the steel core is still attached to the remainder of the stud. The steel piece is perfectly round, so it can't be twisted off or tapped through. The only way to get it off is to use a "nut cracker" and crack it in half. Then the stud must will have to be tapped out and be replaced. __________________ When was the last time you did 230MPH in something with 4 seats?

04-02-2009, 03:44 PM	#2 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	I have to guess that the stud in question was already cracked (or at least, weakened from stress) by over-torquing. Had you or the dealer removed that wheel for any reason, or was it likely last tightened at the factory? This goes with my conspiracy theory about the factory over-tightening everything I've only taken my front driver's wheel off so far (to remove the wheel well liner and reach through there while installing the headers), maybe I should go ahead and check them all like the paranoid fool that I am __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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04-02-2009, 03:49 PM	#3 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 655	Not really sure how tight mine were, don't have a reverse torque wrench All my wheels have been off the car and are currently torqued to 80 ft/lb, although I usually go to 85 at the auto-x and I check them part way through the event to make sure nothing has moved due to heat expansion.