CJ Motorsports Road race pump...

phunk · 08-02-2014, 09:25 PM

No it's not a press fit... There is a little finger tab on the right side of the sensor. I can't see it in your photo so it might be broken off of yours. You push the tab in and slide the sensor up. When installing, the sensor slides down and snaps in with the tab

Rangerz · 08-02-2014, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

No it's not a press fit... There is a little finger tab on the right side of the sensor. I can't see it in your photo so it might be broken off of yours. You push the tab in and slide the sensor up. When installing, the sensor slides down and snaps in with the tab

****

I'll be more careful when I get the replacement.

Rangerz · 08-02-2014, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

There is a little finger tab on the right side of the sensor. I can't see it in your photo so it might be broken off of yours.

You mean I had a defective level sensor tab all along

Nissan will be hearing from me ASAP

I know it had nothing to do with the mechanic

Rangerz · 08-10-2014, 06:19 PM

Thought I would wrap up some comments on my install on the RRP.

I received the replacement Fuel Sender unit on Friday the 8th. I broke the circuit board on the stock unit prying instead of using the tab.

I already had the RRP lines run, the stock fuel pump modified and installed, and the RRP manifold in from the previous weekend when I broke the circuit board. So when I got home Friday after work I took the replacement level sensor off and ran into my first issue.

Looks like late 2011 Nissan changed the design of the sensor plastic base. I contacted Phunk who confirmed the difference. The problem with the change are 3 small tabs that won't allow the sensor to sit flush against the surge canister mounting plate. In addition to that they must have added some material to the slot area because it is a little thick and won't seat on the RRP mounting flange. I ended up filing the tabs down and filing the top of the flange tab a little to get it to seat properly.

Here are a couple of pics I tried to mark the area that was removed with black magic marker.

With the material not removed this is where it will not seat onto the RRP mounting plate without removing some material.

So with that filed down and mounting properly I moved on to installing the surge canister which went fine with one exception. CJM has moved the small slit for the 2 sensor wires to face towards the front of the car instead of the back. I was using that as a reference point and thought it may have been made on the wrong side. Contacted Phunk again and he ensured me is was fine and that they did move it to the front so the sensor wires had a shorter distance into the canister. So got that in and now I'm ready to fire it after knocking out some odds and ends.

Added 1 1/2 gallons of fuel: This becomes important later!!!!

No fire

Contacted Phunk again, he gave me some suggestions had to be the pump not running or the lines not connected right. So I spent the better part of the night texting with Phunk trying what he said and texting back. Threw in the towel for the night at about midnight.

Sat: After Friday night didn't go well the only thing left to do was pull the stock pump and inspect it again. So messed around for about 2-3 hrs getting everything disconnected and finally got the thing out. I went though all the connections fuel lines and electrical and low and behold the + & - pump wires were not attached, well shvt I know I connected them but, after having such a difficult time prior to this I was second guessing everything I had done and reconnected everything and re-tightened all the clamps.

So back into the tank with the pump "THE HARD PART"

actually not that bad after you have done it once and know how much you can push, bend, cuss, and throw ****. So got it back in and all buttoned up and go for another refire.... Same thing she cranks but no fire

Fvck, damn and every other word was said. Contact Phunk again

Ok out with the pump again...well almost out while I was pulling it up I could get it a an angle where I could see the power connectors at the pump. + terminal disconnected. No way I can get needle nose pliers in there to reconnect it, "damn do I need to pull this fvcking pump again"....NO, I ran up to a military surplus store and bought every pair of medical forceps they had available. Worked like a charm and got it reconnected buttoned back up and go to crank it over NO FIRE still. Well what in the Fing hell is going on here????

Fuvk it then I'll just pull the whole thing out and start from the beginning..that was the frustration talking. So decided to pull the the RRP and manifold back out so did that and plugged the stock side in and cracked it "Fuel should be coming out tube #1". Pump is spinning but, nothing coming out of any of the lines. OK now what??????

Well the first thought is damn I'm going to have to pull the pump out again. Then against what you would normally do at this point; I had this thought. Maybe the pump isn't priming for some reason. Well if I had to pull it again putting more fuel in and having to pump it out later is no biggy. So I added another 1 1/4 gallons 2 1/4 total estimated. Crank it and fuel is coming out #1 line

So put the RRP back together and installed and it finally fired up at 11PM Sat evening. Done for the night.

So in closing here.

#1. As frustrated as I was with this at times Phunk answered all my questions and even some that he thought were pretty dumb.

#2. Use RTV around the 3 nuts that hold the canister. I used thread sealant which didn't work completely. 1 nut had some seepage.

#3. Over time their have been some changes to the appearance of some of the parts in this kit which aren't updated in the instructions. the

#3.5 When connecting the 3 lines to the fuel pump you have one hand manipulating the hose onto the 90 deg brass fitting and one hand one the other side to get them seated. What was happening is I was getting into the + & - fuel pimp wires and dislodging them from the pump connector. CHECK THOSE. When the whole pump canister is extended my wires has maybe 1/2" of slack so it doesn't take much to knock them off.

#4. Be patient

#5. I asked Phunk if I had the record for install issues. He was being nice and I don't think ever said a definitive yes. Probably not the award someone wants but, I'll own it

#6. The system works. With 2 1/4 gallons on my test drive we have a tight 180 deg right hand on a on-ramp that I ran it around a few times, no hiccups at all.

I have a track weekend coming the 16 and 17th. Looking forward to that with the new fuel system.

PHUNK Thanks for the help

phunk · 08-10-2014, 06:50 PM

After not hearing from you for a while I knew you either driving the car, or digging up the box for my return address and using google earth to find a high point with a clear line of sight.

Glad its running. The good news is that you probably have more experience than anyone else with it now. You should install them for people for money! I am sure you would like to do it again now, right?

Rangerz · 08-10-2014, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

After not hearing from you for a while I knew you either driving the car, or digging up the box for my return address and using google earth to find a high point with a clear line of sight.

Glad its running. The good news is that you probably have more experience than anyone else with it now. You should install them for people for money! I am sure you would like to do it again now, right?

For money hell no.... the install I had was so frickin fun I would do it for free

Oh and forgot to add in Comment 3.5

The reason the pump connections kept coming off was during the fuel tube installation back onto the 90 brass brabs. Very little room and when I was working the fuel lines on from one side my fat *** fingers were pushing from the other and pulled the connections off. WATCH OUT FOR THAT IT WILL SAVE YOU ALLOT OF TIME.

phunk · 08-10-2014, 07:49 PM

make sure and get some miles on it before the track day! definitely want to get some shakedown time on it

Rangerz · 08-10-2014, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

make sure and get some miles on it before the track day! definitely want to get some shakedown time on it

Yep I have 50 or so on it now and will get some more during the week probl 200 or so driving to work and back.

08-02-2014, 09:25 PM	#31 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,655 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 944523	No it's not a press fit... There is a little finger tab on the right side of the sensor. I can't see it in your photo so it might be broken off of yours. You push the tab in and slide the sensor up. When installing, the sensor slides down and snaps in with the tab __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-10-2014, 06:19 PM	#34 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 58 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 11	Thought I would wrap up some comments on my install on the RRP. I received the replacement Fuel Sender unit on Friday the 8th. I broke the circuit board on the stock unit prying instead of using the tab. I already had the RRP lines run, the stock fuel pump modified and installed, and the RRP manifold in from the previous weekend when I broke the circuit board. So when I got home Friday after work I took the replacement level sensor off and ran into my first issue. Looks like late 2011 Nissan changed the design of the sensor plastic base. I contacted Phunk who confirmed the difference. The problem with the change are 3 small tabs that won't allow the sensor to sit flush against the surge canister mounting plate. In addition to that they must have added some material to the slot area because it is a little thick and won't seat on the RRP mounting flange. I ended up filing the tabs down and filing the top of the flange tab a little to get it to seat properly. Here are a couple of pics I tried to mark the area that was removed with black magic marker. With the material not removed this is where it will not seat onto the RRP mounting plate without removing some material. So with that filed down and mounting properly I moved on to installing the surge canister which went fine with one exception. CJM has moved the small slit for the 2 sensor wires to face towards the front of the car instead of the back. I was using that as a reference point and thought it may have been made on the wrong side. Contacted Phunk again and he ensured me is was fine and that they did move it to the front so the sensor wires had a shorter distance into the canister. So got that in and now I'm ready to fire it after knocking out some odds and ends. Added 1 1/2 gallons of fuel: This becomes important later!!!! No fire Contacted Phunk again, he gave me some suggestions had to be the pump not running or the lines not connected right. So I spent the better part of the night texting with Phunk trying what he said and texting back. Threw in the towel for the night at about midnight. Sat: After Friday night didn't go well the only thing left to do was pull the stock pump and inspect it again. So messed around for about 2-3 hrs getting everything disconnected and finally got the thing out. I went though all the connections fuel lines and electrical and low and behold the + & - pump wires were not attached, well shvt I know I connected them but, after having such a difficult time prior to this I was second guessing everything I had done and reconnected everything and re-tightened all the clamps. So back into the tank with the pump "THE HARD PART" actually not that bad after you have done it once and know how much you can push, bend, cuss, and throw ***. So got it back in and all buttoned up and go for another refire.... Same thing she cranks but no fire Fvck, damn and every other word was said. Contact Phunk again Ok out with the pump again...well almost out while I was pulling it up I could get it a an angle where I could see the power connectors at the pump. + terminal disconnected. No way I can get needle nose pliers in there to reconnect it, "damn do I need to pull this fvcking pump again"....NO, I ran up to a military surplus store and bought every pair of medical forceps they had available. Worked like a charm and got it reconnected buttoned back up and go to crank it over NO FIRE still. Well what in the Fing hell is going on here???? Fuvk it then I'll just pull the whole thing out and start from the beginning..that was the frustration talking. So decided to pull the the RRP and manifold back out so did that and plugged the stock side in and cracked it "Fuel should be coming out tube #1". Pump is spinning but, nothing coming out of any of the lines. OK now what?????? Well the first thought is damn I'm going to have to pull the pump out again. Then against what you would normally do at this point; I had this thought. Maybe the pump isn't priming for some reason. Well if I had to pull it again putting more fuel in and having to pump it out later is no biggy. So I added another 1 1/4 gallons 2 1/4 total estimated. Crank it and fuel is coming out #1 line So put the RRP back together and installed and it finally fired up at 11PM Sat evening. Done for the night. So in closing here. #1. As frustrated as I was with this at times Phunk answered all my questions and even some that he thought were pretty dumb. #2. Use RTV around the 3 nuts that hold the canister. I used thread sealant which didn't work completely. 1 nut had some seepage. #3. Over time their have been some changes to the appearance of some of the parts in this kit which aren't updated in the instructions. the #3.5 When connecting the 3 lines to the fuel pump you have one hand manipulating the hose onto the 90 deg brass fitting and one hand one the other side to get them seated. What was happening is I was getting into the + & - fuel pimp wires and dislodging them from the pump connector. CHECK THOSE. When the whole pump canister is extended my wires has maybe 1/2" of slack so it doesn't take much to knock them off. #4. Be patient #5. I asked Phunk if I had the record for install issues. He was being nice and I don't think ever said a definitive yes. Probably not the award someone wants but, I'll own it #6. The system works. With 2 1/4 gallons on my test drive we have a tight 180 deg right hand on a on-ramp that I ran it around a few times, no hiccups at all. I have a track weekend coming the 16 and 17th. Looking forward to that with the new fuel system. PHUNK Thanks for the help Rusty likes this. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY Last edited by Rangerz; 08-10-2014 at 11:37 PM.*

08-10-2014, 06:50 PM	#35 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,655 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 944523	After not hearing from you for a while I knew you either driving the car, or digging up the box for my return address and using google earth to find a high point with a clear line of sight. Glad its running. The good news is that you probably have more experience than anyone else with it now. You should install them for people for money! I am sure you would like to do it again now, right? Rangerz likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-10-2014, 07:49 PM	#37 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,655 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 944523	make sure and get some miles on it before the track day! definitely want to get some shakedown time on it Rangerz likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

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