First track day shakedown

wstar

What they said, but I'll add a few points:

Definite must-haves for serious track usage. You can't possibly overkill on oil cooling for the track, go as big as you can fit. Block things off for street usage if it overcools in "normal" conditions.

I wouldn't worry about it until/unless you have a problem

Definitely brake ducts (e.g. Stillen's kit or fab something similar). RBF600 fluid. More on pads below...

Funny thing is, while I agree the VLSD isn't all that hot.... I've been putting off upgrading for a while, and I'm starting to wonder how much it's really worth. At the end of the day the inside wheelspin isn't killing me all that much, and somehow mine hasn't completely gone open-diff yet from VLSD wear. My engine failed from track abuse and the LSD is still going ok. At this point I just think of it as a laptime upgrade but not strictly necessary.

Basically you'll want more front caster/camber, especially if you lower the car at all while putting in a better coilover system.

You can disable the ABS, but it's not as simple as pulling a fuse. If you just pull the fuse it also turns off your rear brake lights. There is a wire you can cut (or put a switch on) to just disable the ABS module but not the brake lights. I don't have the details at hand, and I don't think anyone's ever distilled the info out of whatever thread it's in and made a simple DIY page.

If you leave ABS mode on and worry about Ice Mode, the trick is to bias the car to the front with pad compound choices. Use a weak rear pad and it mostly goes away. It is very situational depending on the track, the temps, and your driving style. What seems to trigger it is if the rears lock up while the fronts are still rolling, *especially* under any kind of yawing due to trail-braking into the corner. I get hit by it a lot if I'm not careful about pad selection because I'm a fan of using that trail-braking-yaw to finish rotating the car into the apex.

Re: pad bias, keep in mind that on this car the rears don't get as hot as the fronts either, and most compounds have a torque curve that peaks then falls off as things get really hot. If you had pad torque curve printouts, you'd want a significant torque bias between the two even though the rears are running a much lower temp than the fronts. Mostly it requires experimentation. A lot of people are happy with Carbotech with XP10 or 12 in the front and XP8 in the rear.

Related: The "VDC Off" button does not shut off all traction control, and it will matter if you're really pushing the limits in the corners. You need to unplug the Bosch Yaw Sensor located underneath the cupholder area inside the center console to completely kill all forms of traction control.

I don't think it would be worth it, as it would have negative effects on other aero aspects (e.g. more engine bay airpressure pushing out the bottom, and dirtier air flowing in under the nose). No idea what it would do for brake cooling, but I think ducting is the better path to go down. You could try running the brake ducts to NACAs placed on the undertray though, might be better than the nose.

Bearings seem to last a long time without getting loose. The brake problems are just about the brakes. I never had any serious pad knockback on the stock Sport calipers.

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Journal thread / Car setup details

Rusty

Forgot to add one thing to my post. Wrap the clutch line down by the tranny with insulation. This help prevents the CSC problem.

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