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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 I said it first!!! Lol Simple If you have completely stock car, shifting right before the redline, which is past the peak/highest h.p. the car produces
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Simple
If you have completely stock car, shifting right before the redline, which is past the peak/highest h.p. the car produces is fine. When you get moded & tuned, the peak h.p. redline, & turq & h.p power curve changes. You also want mods & tune that give you a longer steady flat top h.p. chart, instead of a quick up to the highest h.p peak & a quick fall. Even if that H.P. is higher!!!! I can guarantee a twelve second 370z with only doing 3 things to the car. If you know how to drive these 3 things will make the car quicker & faster than any other mods you do. N/A of course ![]() 1)Good tires for traction a must-The first 60' feet is where you lose or gain the most of your 1/4 mile run. 2)4:08 gearing-That makes the car get going quicker & gets quicker to the desired shifting point after each shift. 3) Its a two parter. Take off the power robbing cats & replace them with test pipes with a mandatory(because of the change) TUNE!! Don't forget to raise the redline. Don't bother with intakes/exhaust or anything else. The car will be a twelve second car. Last edited by andre12031948; 09-05-2013 at 07:32 PM. |
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Last edited by phunk; 09-05-2013 at 07:24 PM. |
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This is bad advice. More than a few members have had oil pump failures due to raising the stock redline.
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Any aftermarket higher flowing units?
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Most people don't take theirs to the track. That's where failures occur. How often is someone at 8k rpm on the street?
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Yeah I blew the oem oil pump last year, in the very beginning we thought about the oil pump was the problem but after review of the event and datalog. The verdict was the engine got oil starvation for half of a second which did a lot of damage to one of the VVEL head. I limped back home then 200kms later the oil pump blew in thousand pieces ! |
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At the point where performance is key this is simple if you use The Force. I’ve had a couple 13B rotary RX-7 engines custom built for me which redlined at all but Formula One RPMs. The power curve was blown through in the blink of an eye and you were off the scale. Pegging was common w/ no rev limiter so who knows how high RPMs reached. Some of my buddies drove their 7s like a bat out of Hell till the apex seals came apart. I drove on instinct and shifted a nanosecond after I felt the power drop – which was something that can’t be charted or measured. It’s an animal thing.
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That's exactly the issue. The Nismo unit is the only other one I know of. It's got a billet gear inside as opposed to ours, which I believe is sintered metal.
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![]() I believe that the lightweight crankshaft pulleys add to the problem of the oil pump failures. The lightweight pulleys change the harmonics on the end of the crankshaft. They set-up a vibration that can't be dampened out. Since the oil pump is driven off of the front end of the crankshaft. The vibration goes into the oil pump. breaking the gears in it. Dodge Hemi's have the same set-up almost. And there have been quite afew failures of the oil pump with the light weight pulleys on them too. ![]()
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Can you post ANY relevant information on this, or is this more "Lightweight Pulleys are the debil" hearsay? And by relevant, I mean at least two VQ37VHR's with lightweight pulleys and oil pump failures at 'Normal' RPMs (ie, not revved to 9K where they blew up... revved to 7500-8000 where they blew up). |
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