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I might be interested on that. Easier to get everything from the same place, keep us posted!
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#1 (permalink) |
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I might be interested on that. Easier to get everything from the same place, keep us posted!
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2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT || HKS EVC6 || Custom CarPC || F.I 3'' TDX CBE || SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC || BC BR Coilovers || SPC camber arms || Work VSS-X || Custom Headlights || PW:JDM CF Covers || Seibon CF Engine Cover ] |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I can throw a $150 deposit down, but it may be a bit before I can send $1k. GTM wasn't done with my wallet. I need to finish a couple things with them first. Wife told me to buy Race seats... I think I can justify the need for this first if she's telling me to buy seats.
speaking of which... I may pm you to call sometime about what my car will need as a SC'd setup.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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How much more time does it take on average to tune the car since the fuel pressure will be different from the get go with a return system.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Anything over 10psi and I would recommend using the vacuum reference to keep your fuel pressure differential high. That means: If you have 52psi rail pressure, and 10psi of boost, you are effectively operating at 42psi fuel pressure. If you were 20psi boost, you are at 32psi effective pressure. So, once you start going nuts on the boost, you want your fuel pressure to climb with boost. Over 10 psi, hook up the regulator vacuum reference to a boost only pressure source. This would be a charge pipe before the throttle bodies. The VVEL system causes swings in manifold vacuum that are not consistently linear with engine load. Therefore, the manifold vacuum is not a direct indication of engine load, and therefore we do not want the fuel pressure regulator reacting to it. We want it to see boost only with VVEL. I am sure it would still work fine, but it is theoretically incorrect. You can, if you choose, use the boost reference at any boost level you want. If you were say, trying to get the most of some undersized injectors, then you need all the help you can get, that few psi of fuel pressure which help. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Finally hit fuel starve at the track today. Two really tight 180* right handers that I was able to pull 1g around. Half a tank and would start as soon as I tried to power out of it. Thankfully the car never fully cut out but i would loose all power for a few seconds. I will be ordering this sometime next year.
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#10 (permalink) |
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how much of an improvement is adding a return to returnless car, this is only a track car. the car is completely torn down, so I figure if it nets a good return I would add it now. maybe a stage 0 or 1
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#11 (permalink) |
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A return system is only mostly necessary for higher horse power levels. Mostly around the area of 550whp+. So depending on your future mods of power will be what you need to purchase now or later.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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A return system is something I would recommend for any VHR car over 10psi of boost, or over 500-550rwhp. It doesn't seem to be needed below that from my own testing, although there are some cars at lower power than mine that I have heard reports of fuel pressure dropping. While my car is currently on the stock rails and return-less setup, there are a few feet of the fuel plumbing that is upgraded much larger... not because I thought I would need it, but because I wanted to reroute my fuel lines away from the turbos and manifolds. Larger aftermarket plumbing was built for this. This is the only reason that I can come up with right now why my car seems to be able to run a little more power than others without a return. Our soon to be released kits will include upgraded plumbing. Our basic Stage 0 (been available a couple years now) is just a return conversion and leaves the plumbing otherwise stock, and wont do anything to help flow, but will resolve the first signs of pressure drop from the stock fuel system. But again, just to be clear, return systems alone will not help resolve fuel starvation in the 370z.
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Last edited by phunk; 09-02-2013 at 10:08 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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BTW some more talk about the standalone version road race pump. This product would be a lot more costly and complex if it was required that I design it to work PnP with the OEM plumbing and returnless setup like the existing model does. I think that the extra cost of integrating an internal filter and regulator will probably almost match the cost of a return conversion anyway.
If I had the freedom to design the standalone version to only be compatible with our upcoming Stage 2 fuel system (or stage 3 in twin-pump configuration), it is something that I could get done much more quickly. Because it would require almost no changes to the road race sending unit itself. So the most ideal candidate for a tester, would fit these circumstances: A: Currently running our existing road race pump model. B: Interested in upgrading to our Stage 2 fuel system (return conversion, billet rails, adjustable reg., upgraded lines, etc.) when available in a couple weeks. C: Prepared for up to 10 days down time, to return the road race pump to us for a little reworking. I would prefer the tester run it on the single 255 pump that is already in it, for initial testing. Integrating the secondary pump for a twin pump configuration would be an easy upgrade later. I feel like I might have just described SPOHN perfectly ![]()
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Last edited by phunk; 09-02-2013 at 11:25 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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