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Fortune Auto 510

Originally Posted by justin_boy Yeesh that’s beefy I’ll be calling bc tomorrow and fortune auto Gonna weigh out some options, liking the er series and 510’s are also looking good

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Old 05-13-2021, 02:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by justin_boy View Post
Yeesh that’s beefy

I’ll be calling bc tomorrow and fortune auto

Gonna weigh out some options, liking the er series and 510’s are also looking good

I think I’m going to go with the 16/14 combo but my mind changes back and forth. Main concern is I don’t want to induce understeer, and have a hotchkis up front
Inducing too much understeer isn't too easy to do. I run 1000lb/800lb (not exactly 18k/14k but close), and I have Hotchkis front and rear. I run my rear bar on the softest setting and the rear shocks cranked pretty far down (autocross setup). Even then there is plenty of room for oversteer left.

FWIW, I had Fortune Auto 510s on my last Z, and was quite satisfied for the price. The current owner just sent the dampers in for their first service, 5 years in, at a cost of $300.
On that car I ran only about 60% of the spring rates that I do now, but FA should be able to set it up however you like.
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Old 05-13-2021, 05:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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alrighty boys

ordered the fortune auto's. 510 16k front/14k rear hyperco springs, aluminum dampers and heim joint upgrade. now i wait !!

hit up cygnus auto if you need anything, geoff is great
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Old 05-13-2021, 08:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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should i be worried that the aluminum dampers wouldnt be as durable as the steel ones? i understand our cars are double wish bone so there isnt that much stress on the shock anyways, is that correct?
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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should i be worried that the aluminum dampers wouldnt be as durable as the steel ones? i understand our cars are double wish bone so there isnt that much stress on the shock anyways, is that correct?
The coilovers are not load bearing per say. Just have the springs on them. Just make sure the double nuts on the bottom of the springs are tight.
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The coilovers are not load bearing per say. Just have the springs on them. Just make sure the double nuts on the bottom of the springs are tight.
I won’t be installing, I’ll have the shop install them. Making sure the double nuts on the bottom are tight don’t have anything to do with the dampers being aluminum right?
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Old 05-13-2021, 09:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I won’t be installing, I’ll have the shop install them. Making sure the double nuts on the bottom are tight don’t have anything to do with the dampers being aluminum right?
Well the tubes are threaded for the spring adjustment. If the lock nut is tight. You don't have anything to worry about. You will have more than enough threads for contact for the load.
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Well the tubes are threaded for the spring adjustment. If the lock nut is tight. You don't have anything to worry about. You will have more than enough threads for contact for the load.
That is right. What I’m asking is the aluminum as durable as the steel in terms of bending?

also even if I got the steel dampers I would have to make sure the double nut at the bottom is tight right?

i have the choice to switch still
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Probably not but not in any way that would be appreciable. The main reason other dampers are made of steel is for cost.
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Probably not but not in any way that would be appreciable. The main reason other dampers are made of steel is for cost.
Not really. My 3" custom valved King shocks on my Power Wagon are steel. I picked steel over aluminum for strength. The remote reservoirs are aluminum on them. Those shocks are over $5,000 for 4.
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Not really. My 3" custom valved King shocks on my Power Wagon are steel. I picked steel over aluminum for strength. The remote reservoirs are aluminum on them. Those shocks are over $5,000 for 4.
lol so why is it not applicable on the 370z? is it because of the way our suspension is set up?
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Old 05-14-2021, 01:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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lol so why is it not applicable on the 370z? is it because of the way our suspension is set up?
The Z is not experiencing the same forces as my truck offroad. I got around 16" of suspension travel. The shaft diameter is close to 3/4".
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Old 05-14-2021, 01:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The Z is not experiencing the same forces as my truck offroad. I got around 16" of suspension travel. The shaft diameter is close to 3/4".
Gotcha! Thank you for taking the time and explaining it to me like I’m
6. Okay so now I have peace of mind. I’ll stick with the aluminum damper body. Saves a pound each corner of unsprung weight and dissipates heat much quicker which apparently is important in double wishbone suspension
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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been thinking about changing the order to 18k front 16k rear, but im worried transitioning will be compromised. what do you guys think about that
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Old 05-17-2021, 12:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You need to consider that auto cross and circuit setups are different. Springs are easy items to change out. You have no aero. You also need to consider the track surfaces you run on. Bumpy and uneven surface are unforgiving if you spung too stiff. Smooth surfaces you can go stiffer. Do you like running curbs or not. Little things to consider. I would start were the majority do and then make adjustments as you get better and have a better idea of what might work best for you.

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Old 05-17-2021, 02:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You need to consider that auto cross and circuit setups are different. Springs are easy items to change out. You have no aero. You also need to consider the track surfaces you run on. Bumpy and uneven surface are unforgiving if you spung too stiff. Smooth surfaces you can go stiffer. Do you like running curbs or not. Little things to consider. I would start were the majority do and then make adjustments as you get better and have a better idea of what might work best for you.

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yes i see. I mostly run streets of willow and button willow but mostly 80% towards buttonwillow. Button willow is an amazing track, pretty smooth as you know yourself im sure lol. only bad part on the track is riverside and you have to avoid a couple curbs cause the car gets squirrelly over some curbs anyways. but i feel like there are some curbs (bus stop, phil hill, the esses) that love being eaten even with high spring rates. correct me if im wrong. also want to eventually do auto club fontana which is pretty smooth and chuckwalla i heard is great as well

i made the change to 18k front/16k rear, just cause i have the personality to always be like "shoot, shoulda went more" , and i can always get the 16k/14k if i find these too aggressive like you've said before
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