MA Motorsports Diff Cooler Install

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:27 PM

Some more pic's.

1st pic. Diff cooler install finished.

2nd pic. The drain port banjo fitting. Here, you can see the 2 crush washers between the banjo fitting and the cover.

3rd pic. Hose clamp.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:37 PM

1st pic. The very top of the cooler.

2nd pic. Where I ran my grounds to. Still have to apply sealant over the area.

3rd. In the trunk, on the left side. There is a rubber grommet with a wire going throught it. This is where my wiring for the temp sensor and power wires for the pump and fan come through. This is the underside of that grommet.

4th, 5th and 6th pic's. Some pic's of my wiring. The wiring is in heat resistant wiring loom.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 04:55 PM

Notes on the install.

You have to use 2 crush washers on one side of the banjo fittings. The side against the cover. Because there is a relieved area around the ports. When you tighten down on the banjo's. The banjo body bottoms out on the raised area, not on the crush washer. Using 2 washers. The banjo body will seat on the crush washers now. If you don't do this. You WILL have leaks.

When turning on the pump for the first after filling the cover. The pump will be noisy until it starts to pump fluid. You can hear the pitch change.

The Z1 cover and diff cooler took about 2.5 liters of fluid. I had to go out and buy a new pump for the OS Giken fluid. That chit is thick. I broke my pump that screws onto the top of the container. So I bought a hand pump from the local Harbor Freight store for $7.00.

If someone is going to do this install the same. I have enough hose and fittings to make the lines for you, or you can buy the extras from me and make the lines yourself. You have to buy your own banjo' fittings and filter. I don't have them.

The pic is of the new hand pump.

Spooler · 03-25-2018, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Notes on the install.

The Z1 cover and diff cooler took about 2.5 liters of fluid. I had to go out and buy a new pump for the OS Giken fluid. That chit is thick. I broke my pump that screws onto the top of the container. So I bought a hand pump from the local Harbor Freight store for $7.00.

This is a bit of a concern for me. I have bought 3 liters of OS Giken fluid for my diff also. It is 80w250. The first fill on my diff I used Motul 75w90. The diff operated normally. The 2nd fluid I used was Motul 75w140. I can say this, my car is stubborn as heck in the morning backing out of my carport. It didn't do that with the 75w90 fluid. Normally you would run thicker fluid if your diff is getting real hot. With a diff cooler, do we even need to do that? The diff cooler should take care of the diff/diff fluid running hot. Hmm, what to do. I am thinking about going back to Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 diff fluid with an LSD modifier. I have been real happy with that diff fluid.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 09:39 PM

Starting at the 4:30 minute or so mark. The guy quickly talks about viscosity. With the cooler, yeah, I see why not to run a lighter lube. I'm going to do the break in with the Giken fluid. Then decide of what to use after that.

03-25-2018, 09:39 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	Starting at the 4:30 minute or so mark. The guy quickly talks about viscosity. With the cooler, yeah, I see why not to run a lighter lube. I'm going to do the break in with the Giken fluid. Then decide of what to use after that. Zoren 370 likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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