Loud ticking noise from engine

Synack · 02-27-2012, 01:27 PM

Just checked the TSB and saw this:

APPLIED VEHICLES: 2009-2010 370Z (Z34)
APPLIED ENGINE: VQ37VHR
ONLY APPLIED VIN / DATE:
Vehicles built before: JN1AZ4FH(*)AM303670 / 05-Apr-2010
Vehicles built before: JN1AZ4EH(*)AM503778 / 05-Apr-2010
IF YOU CONFIRM
Engine oil level is low.
OR
There is unusual engine noise.

____________________________________

I see that the letters E and F are in bold. My VIN number also has MATCHING letters and numbers like the above VIN's mentioned, except for the last 6 numbers.

JN1AZ4EH

______________

Also just noticed that they replaced the Short Engine, which those suckers are sold for minimum $4000. Yikes! Part no. 10103-JL3MA

Synack · 02-27-2012, 02:44 PM

ALRIGHT ---------- HERE'S THE RUNDOWN

They have to basically take the motor apart. They said if there is any damage to the top block then the whole engine gets replaced. Even the slightest bit. If there is no damage to the top block then the short block gets replaced and I have to basically break in the motor like it was brand new. All covered under warranty no matter what. They said everything was clean and fine on my end and it was not my fault, which is true

So I'm hoping it's just the short block so it can be a relatively short process and I DO NOT have to deal with a diminished value of the car because of a new motor.

Told you guys Baker is great!

wstar · 02-27-2012, 02:49 PM

Well it's in their hands, but tbh if I had any sway and it were my car, I'd be gunning for the full engine replacement.

They're going to have to pull and re-install the whole engine either way, so any risks from that are common to both solutions (e.g. errors in the installation process). The VIN on the lower engine block is going to change either way, if it's the matching VINs you're worried about value-wise.

I'd rather have a whole new engine in that case than have them slap in a new shortblock + existing heads. You get newer everything for free, and less chance of some unseen fallout affecting the heads' longevity. How well do you trust that their mechanics would notice (or even be *able* to notice) some subtle problem that developed in the heads from running oil-free?

m4a1mustang · 02-27-2012, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Well it's in their hands, but tbh if I had any sway and it were my car, I'd be gunning for the full engine replacement.

They're going to have to pull and re-install the whole engine either way, so any risks from that are common to both solutions (e.g. errors in the installation process). The VIN on the lower engine block is going to change either way, if it's the matching VINs you're worried about value-wise.

I'd rather have a whole new engine in that case than have them slap in a new shortblock + existing heads. You get newer everything for free, and less chance of some unseen fallout affecting the heads' longevity. How well do you trust that their mechanics would notice (or even be *able* to notice) some subtle problem that developed in the heads from running oil-free?

Synack · 02-27-2012, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Well it's in their hands, but tbh if I had any sway and it were my car, I'd be gunning for the full engine replacement.

They're going to have to pull and re-install the whole engine either way, so any risks from that are common to both solutions (e.g. errors in the installation process). The VIN on the lower engine block is going to change either way, if it's the matching VINs you're worried about value-wise.

I'd rather have a whole new engine in that case than have them slap in a new shortblock + existing heads. You get newer everything for free, and less chance of some unseen fallout affecting the heads' longevity. How well do you trust that their mechanics would notice (or even be *able* to notice) some subtle problem that developed in the heads from running oil-free?

I understand where you're coming from. Either way I hope I don't get a new block or new engine that has less power than my current one. I've heard of some people with pretty low dyno numbers and that makes me a bit uneasy. Would be cool if I got a factory freak though. More importantly I want the car back with a well operating motor that doesn't eat oil in a relatively short period of time. Like by the end of this week.

wstar · 02-27-2012, 03:00 PM

They can probably do an whole-engine swap in a few days time given scheduling constraints, they dropped mine out in the past for a quick header installation with no problems. With the added complications, though, of inspecting the heads and waiting for major parts shipments (I imagine short blocks and whole engines aren't something they keep waiting on the back shelf at the dealership), I think it'd be wishful thinking to be back on the road in a week.

wstar · 02-27-2012, 03:01 PM

(And I wouldn't worry about the Dyno numbers. Factory freak-ness is never more than ~1%, the rest is just different dynos and different atmospheric conditions, or factors other than the engine (e.g. gearing, wheel size/weight, etc)).

specblue02 · 02-27-2012, 03:06 PM

I thought I heard incorrectly when I was on the phone with the service guy but he checked with the mechanic who was working on my car to confirm but they indicated that burning 1 quarter per 1000 miles is considered normal. Nissan has higher requirements of 2500-3000 miles to burn 1 quart...still I think that's pretty ridiculous...I'm at work so my dad is going to pick it up now but he's going to question that...seems a bit high, don't you guys think so?

theDreamer · 02-27-2012, 03:08 PM

Glad to hear they are taking care of you.
I would not worry about the extra time honestly, an extra week or so to get a full replacement is better than just doing a short block and then having more problems down the road.

Synack · 02-27-2012, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

Glad to hear they are taking care of you.
I would not worry about the extra time honestly, an extra week or so to get a full replacement is better than just doing a short block and then having more problems down the road.

I hear ya. As long as it's available for Nismo Fiesta! lol

sfearl1 · 02-27-2012, 03:15 PM

so my Z has the date: 07/10 in the door and has the beginning VIN of JN1AZ4EH

does this mean i'm affected by the TSB?

theDreamer · 02-27-2012, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synack

I hear ya. As long as it's available for Nismo Fiesta! lol

If not you can always roll in an Altima, I hear they are the new in car.

Synack · 02-27-2012, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfearl1

so my Z has the date: 07/10 in the door and has the beginning VIN of JN1AZ4EH

does this mean i'm affected by the TSB?

It means that if this same exact thing were to happen to you then you would be covered if you're under 36,000 or have an extended warranty.

Trips · 02-27-2012, 03:18 PM

Good to hear their doing the right thing

Speedy · 02-27-2012, 03:22 PM

Interesting thread. Since I just got my Z so I'll definitely keep my eye on the oil level. Anyone got a link to the TSB? If it was posted sorry I missed it.

I haven't had mine long enough to do the first oil change, but I do all my own work. I'm OCD so I keep all my receipts from oil changes as well as a maintenance log book in the car (helps with resale).

I see a lot of misconceptions in this thread as well revolving around warranty. Dealerships CAN NOT void your warranty for doing the work yourself unless they can prove you caused the problem. There are laws against this. The only way a dealer could have such a policy is if they provide free oil changes to their customers.

It's the same reason they can't force you to use their oil or filter.

To the OP, it wasn't the Mobil1 that was the issue. If you burned 5qts in 5,000 miles there was something major wrong going on.

Maybe these cars need a 5W40 or 10W40 weight oil.

02-27-2012, 01:27 PM	#136 (permalink)
Synack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Houston Age: 36 Posts: 1,012 Drives: Sideways Rep Power: 16	Just checked the TSB and saw this: APPLIED VEHICLES: 2009-2010 370Z (Z34) APPLIED ENGINE: VQ37VHR ONLY APPLIED VIN / DATE: Vehicles built before: JN1AZ4FH()AM303670 / 05-Apr-2010 Vehicles built before: JN1AZ4EH()AM503778 / 05-Apr-2010 IF YOU CONFIRM Engine oil level is low. OR There is unusual engine noise. ____________________________________ I see that the letters E and F are in bold. My VIN number also has MATCHING letters and numbers like the above VIN's mentioned, except for the last 6 numbers. JN1AZ4EH ______________ Also just noticed that they replaced the Short Engine, which those suckers are sold for minimum $4000. Yikes! Part no. 10103-JL3MA __________________ NO LONGER OWNS A 370 Turbo FR-S Last edited by Synack; 02-27-2012 at 01:37 PM.

02-27-2012, 02:44 PM	#137 (permalink)
Synack A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Houston Age: 36 Posts: 1,012 Drives: Sideways Rep Power: 16	ALRIGHT ---------- HERE'S THE RUNDOWN They have to basically take the motor apart. They said if there is any damage to the top block then the whole engine gets replaced. Even the slightest bit. If there is no damage to the top block then the short block gets replaced and I have to basically break in the motor like it was brand new. All covered under warranty no matter what. They said everything was clean and fine on my end and it was not my fault, which is true So I'm hoping it's just the short block so it can be a relatively short process and I DO NOT have to deal with a diminished value of the car because of a new motor. Told you guys Baker is great! __________________ NO LONGER OWNS A 370 Turbo FR-S

02-27-2012, 02:49 PM	#138 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Well it's in their hands, but tbh if I had any sway and it were my car, I'd be gunning for the full engine replacement. They're going to have to pull and re-install the whole engine either way, so any risks from that are common to both solutions (e.g. errors in the installation process). The VIN on the lower engine block is going to change either way, if it's the matching VINs you're worried about value-wise. I'd rather have a whole new engine in that case than have them slap in a new shortblock + existing heads. You get newer everything for free, and less chance of some unseen fallout affecting the heads' longevity. How well do you trust that their mechanics would notice (or even be able to notice) some subtle problem that developed in the heads from running oil-free? __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

02-27-2012, 03:00 PM	#141 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	They can probably do an whole-engine swap in a few days time given scheduling constraints, they dropped mine out in the past for a quick header installation with no problems. With the added complications, though, of inspecting the heads and waiting for major parts shipments (I imagine short blocks and whole engines aren't something they keep waiting on the back shelf at the dealership), I think it'd be wishful thinking to be back on the road in a week. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

02-27-2012, 03:01 PM	#142 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	(And I wouldn't worry about the Dyno numbers. Factory freak-ness is never more than ~1%, the rest is just different dynos and different atmospheric conditions, or factors other than the engine (e.g. gearing, wheel size/weight, etc)). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

02-27-2012, 03:06 PM	#143 (permalink)
specblue02 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: NJ Posts: 32 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 15	I thought I heard incorrectly when I was on the phone with the service guy but he checked with the mechanic who was working on my car to confirm but they indicated that burning 1 quarter per 1000 miles is considered normal. Nissan has higher requirements of 2500-3000 miles to burn 1 quart...still I think that's pretty ridiculous...I'm at work so my dad is going to pick it up now but he's going to question that...seems a bit high, don't you guys think so?

02-27-2012, 03:08 PM	#144 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	Glad to hear they are taking care of you. I would not worry about the extra time honestly, an extra week or so to get a full replacement is better than just doing a short block and then having more problems down the road. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

02-27-2012, 03:15 PM	#146 (permalink)
sfearl1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: St. Louis Posts: 2,300 Drives: 2013 FBO E85 GTR Rep Power: 17	so my Z has the date: 07/10 in the door and has the beginning VIN of JN1AZ4EH does this mean i'm affected by the TSB? __________________ Scott

02-27-2012, 03:18 PM	#149 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,728 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Good to hear their doing the right thing __________________

02-27-2012, 03:22 PM	#150 (permalink)
Speedy Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: TN Posts: 390 Drives: check my signature Rep Power: 13	Interesting thread. Since I just got my Z so I'll definitely keep my eye on the oil level. Anyone got a link to the TSB? If it was posted sorry I missed it. I haven't had mine long enough to do the first oil change, but I do all my own work. I'm OCD so I keep all my receipts from oil changes as well as a maintenance log book in the car (helps with resale). I see a lot of misconceptions in this thread as well revolving around warranty. Dealerships CAN NOT void your warranty for doing the work yourself unless they can prove you caused the problem. There are laws against this. The only way a dealer could have such a policy is if they provide free oil changes to their customers. It's the same reason they can't force you to use their oil or filter. To the OP, it wasn't the Mobil1 that was the issue. If you burned 5qts in 5,000 miles there was something major wrong going on. Maybe these cars need a 5W40 or 10W40 weight oil.

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