Failed Clutch Master Cylinder

1991Z32

On the truck headed for the dealer for what has been (remotely) diagnosed as a failed clutch master cylinder (CMC).

My car is under a 7 year /100k factory recertified warranty (bought used from dealer).

Does anyone have experience having this issue repaired and was it covered by warranty?

Thanks!!

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2010 40th Anniversary #564 || NISMO CBE || Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2s || RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly

Zbrah

Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures

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40 to 332

Could be a failed CMC or a failed CSC. Each has its own symptoms. CMC failure usually presents as soft pedal feel, lack of pedal return, lack of pressure that can sometimes be restored by pumping or a combination of the above. CSC failure is much more sudden, with complete loss of pressure, and fluid often appearing under the tranny bell housing. Both parts are prone to failure. It should be obvious to the dealer which has failed. Regardless of the type of failure, give serious consideration to replacing the CMC with a heavy-duty CMC from RJM Performance ... and replacing the CSC with a HD unit from Z Speed Performance or Z1. If you simply replace the failed unit with another stock unit, you could face the prospect of another failure down the road. One of the forum members, JarBlue, is very familiar with CMC failures. He may add his impressions.

1991Z32

@40 to 332 - I did discuss the HD CMC with Ryan from RJM. He was the one that told me the symptoms indicate a failing CMC.

I am currently under warranty, which was the main point of my question, has anyone had this work covered by warranty.

If not then I would gladly put the upgraded parts in.

Thanks for the input.

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2010 40th Anniversary #564 || NISMO CBE || Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2s || RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly

1991Z32

Not covered under warranty!!!
Dealer said it was considered wear and tear.

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2010 40th Anniversary #564 || NISMO CBE || Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2s || RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly

40 to 332

Well, if it's any consolation, the CMC can be swapped out pretty easily. The toughest part is the cramped space that you need to work in both in the engine bay and especially in the driver side footwell to uninstall the failed CMC and install the replacement unit. While you're at it, I'd suggest replacing the stock pedal assembly with the RJM pedal assembly.

Nithmo

I would fight the dealer, and I would escalate it. Keep climbing the rungs of management. Start with the service manager, then general manager, then dealer owner. It may not be easy to find the dealership owner's contact info, but don't hesitate calling if you do. In my experience, you eventually get to a level where someone simply doesn't care anymore and will approve the repair, without you having to pay.

Even if you get nowhere with the owner, I'd call Nissan customer service and keep escalating the issue.

They are calling it "wear and tear" on a part that is well known to fail prematurely. Also, pushing a clutch pedal in and out results in wear and tear on the clutch and eventually the flywheel (if the clutch is completely worn out). Those two are never warranties and understandably so. There is NO wear and tear that happens on the CMC or CSC. It's a cylinder that slides in and out based on hydraulic pressure. It's just a poorly designed part.

Me thinks is they're pushing you off on something they know is an issue and are telling you to pay for it. How isn't that a warranty claim?

Personally, I'd try making a deal with them. Tell them you don't want the same shitty parts and that you will provide better parts, as long as they provide the labor. Also, indicate you expect no warranty on the new parts whatsoever, since they're not theirs. That way, they really have nothing to lose.

BehindSpace

master cilinder breaks from shifting too quickly when you punch the clutch pedal, shift slower and not like you are a racecar driver and it will last a long time, when you push the clutch pedal you are moving a plunger and pushing hydrolic fluid in the cilnder. if you punch the pedal fast it will break it. dont do this

Nithmo

So don't shift in the sports car like its a sports car?

Z-Girl 12

LMBO

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2012 Z-SOLD
2014 Nismo #565 Fast Intentions CBE/HFC/Swift/SPC/RJM/H&R-15/20mm/Z1 CAI/Headers/Intake Manifold w/Uprev Tune 328.31whp/263.64tq

2011 Nismo#91

It's pretty rare for a CMC to fail; almost all replacements you find here are because they don't know what failed and just replace everything because it's a pretty cheap part when compared to replacing the CSC which does fail alot. And I'd take any advice from someone who sells replacement CMC with a grain of salt saying it's the CMC that failed. Remote diagnoses is very limited, I had clutch problems recently and one of the first suggestions was my CMC had failed when it turned out to just be an adjustment issue.

Edit
Page 9 of your warranty book.
TRANSMISSION AND TRANSAXLE
Case and all internal parts, torque converter and converter housing, automatic transmission control module, transfer case and all internal parts, seals and gaskets, clutch cover and housing, and electronic transmission controls.
Seals are the thing that fails causing the clutch fluid fluid to leak out CSC or not hold pressure CMC. They "should" be covered but it's usually an uphill battle with nissan.

Page 11 What is not covered due to wear and tear.
MAINTENANCE SERVICE EXPENSE
This warranty does not cover normal maintenance services as specified in your NISSAN SERVICE & MAINTENANCE GUIDE such as engine tune-up; cleaning and polishing; wheel alignment; headlight aiming; replacement of filters, replacement of windshield wiper inserts, lubricants, coolant; worn brake shoes, pads, drums and rotors and worn clutch discs.
Which doesn't mention a damn thing about the clutch hydraulic system.

Nithmo

I really hope OP didn't just bend over and take their first response.

1991Z32

OP here. Was away for Thanksgiving and thanks for the input.

The symptoms was not a sudden failure of the clutch but a gradual lowering of the engagement point (engaging quicker) and I had to push completely to the floor to disengage at the end. There was never any issue with the pedal returning to the top of its position. The car is a 2010 with 18k miles.

Here is the situation - the dealer said it was the CMC and the CSC. Quoting me $1100. The parts should be arriving Wednesday 12/1.
Frankly, I am not used to dealing with dealers because I have never had a major component go on a car with this few miles. Either the car was way beyond warranty or it was completely covered.
My friend used to work at this dealer and told me they would shoot me straight. Hopefully he's right, but who really knows.

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2010 40th Anniversary #564 || NISMO CBE || Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2s || RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly

Zbrah

What parts do you have on order? I hope you're not replacing your failed oem parts with more oem parts.

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Ventruck

Where things are right now, I can't really judge the dealer's assessment to what actually failed, as there could've been adverse effects with the car being used very sparingly in the past 6 years — so it could be both CSC and CMC. Age could've just eaten at the seals or whatever. Regardless of what failed, both would have to be replaced at the same time.

Like said already, if it's an OEM CSC, that's a real waste. If you have a competent specialist shop in town, you'd be paying that much or less to have an aftermarket CSC + new OEM CMC.

Like not to it shove in your face, but this is the very first thing that has to be taken care of with the the manual version of the car. It's such a (or rather, "the") prominent issue that anyone should be aware of if they did research on this car before buying, especially if it's a used car...yet it seems a fair share of people are too fixated on engine mods, etc, and just put off something that could spontaneously fail. Even if it's progressive, the time frame between early symptoms and failure could be as short as the limp home. You just never know.

Some people literally say "I'll just wait until it goes" — as in, wait until they're possibly stranded on the road, have to call a towing service that might fudge up the underside of the car while towing, then order the parts, and then arrange the work to be done, which my possibly require another tow, maybe even sort out a rental in the meantime. All that downtime and likely additional cost vs. just getting the parts and job done on a scheduled day.

That kinda does translate to "expect to fork over another grand or so soon after buying the car", which sucks, but 7 years and Nissan kept the car this way.