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New Car Buying 101. Please Read Before Buying Your Nissan 370Z

Yeah, I found that one, it is the one with no sport package and no nav it looks like. I found another one that was MB with sport package, but

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Old 11-14-2009, 01:56 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Yeah, I found that one, it is the one with no sport package and no nav it looks like. I found another one that was MB with sport package, but it has 12,000 miles on it.
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Old 11-14-2009, 02:00 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theDreamer View Post
Yeah, I found that one, it is the one with no sport package and no nav it looks like. I found another one that was MB with sport package, but it has 12,000 miles on it.
mind if you could post the link for the 12k one? thanks

edit: NVM I found it....hmmm 355 miles away....I'll have to call about how much they charge for delivery.

Last edited by vash_241987; 11-14-2009 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 11-14-2009, 02:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Cars for Sale: 2009 Nissan 370Z in Arlington, TX 76011: Coupe Details - 269782223 - AutoTrader.com
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Old 11-14-2009, 02:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Def. going to think these two over, but I'll go for the S.A. first since it's closer. Thanks for the info
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:44 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edeeZee View Post
As a former car salesman, I can tell you that this stuff is too mechanical and unnecessarily complicated.

Step 1: make sure your credit is straight, if you got issues or you're in over your head when it comes to debt--forget about getting a new car PERIOD!

Step 2: go on dealership websites to see if they even got the car you want, no dealership is going to "custom" order i.e. dealer-trade a car for you especially if you're trying to haggle them down.

Step 3: realize, if the car is in high demand e.g. when Mini's first came out, you can kiss a discount good bye and expect to pay MSRP at least.

Step 4: the dealership does not have to bend to you, if they don't want to whore out a car, then you should look elsewhere.

Step 5: DO NOT think that your trade-in is worth what you arbitrarily think it is. In other words, don't think just because you spent $20K in aftermarket parts that you can recover 70% of that, NOT EVEN CLOSE. Dealerships don't like modded or riced-out cars.

Step 6: PM me if you need help.
It is almost always better to sell your car yourself on Craigslist or Ebay. You will usually save yourself $1000. Unless you have a junk car that nobody wants or it has trans slipping or something. Then selling it to the dealer is fine. Sometimes they will give you a good price if the new car you want is a mass produced model like a Toyota Camry LE or most American cars. American car dealers have a very hard time selling their junk.

At auction the modded cars always go much less then stock. I bought them and made good profits because the large franchise dealers wouldn't touch them. So it is best to keep your stock parts for whn you are ready to trade in your car. You will never get your money back though. Nobody will pay you for the mods you installed. It's a hobby not an investment.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:51 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidyan View Post
One note on the "TMV" true market value pricing quoted by Edmunds.com is that I hear it is an average selling price. As with average figures, some people paid less. Therefore, when you use that feature on Edmunds.com, it shouldn't be viewed as the lowest or best price possible.
TMV is just an Edmunds thing. In the real world KBB and Edmunds are a joke. People used to come in an say "But Edmunds says my car is worth this amount". The manager said "Then go sell it to Edmunds" lol.

When I worked at a franchised new car dealership I would make $100 comm on invoice deals. I hated it. But mass produced models don't hold gross. Buyers can go anywhere and buy at invoice or below sometimes. Camry's went $500 -$1000 below. I couldn't believe it. I didn't want to give the car away. I told the customers to go away. The Sales Manager would just cave in and give it to them. Just to move them off the lot. Sales people are afraid of Indian buyers! lol.

On the high demand vehicles that were new like Prius, Matrix, and Highlanders we would sell at msrp no negotiation. I would tell the customers right away there is no neg. on this car because of demand. And sometimes I was able to get a nice gross. Internet people would just shop around.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:53 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUN-TAI-0 View Post
If u wanted to have invoice price r near invoice. Ask them for fair rate r use your own finance...

If you want below invoice. They will jerk u around with high rate and they won't let u use ur own finance. (if u have cash, PM me and I can help u get a good deal)
U can use Mortgage - Home Loans - Refinance - Mortgage Refinance - Mortgage Rates - Home Equity and get preapproved. That way you have mony and can offer dealers cash. Forget their financing unless it is factory sponsored and below banks. If yo have bad credit you will need a dealership that does second chance finance.
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:52 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Definitely better to go in with your own financing. If they are able to get a lower rate without any more cost to you then even better. If they do the old, "oh if you get the extended warranty then we can get you a lower rate" BS, just stick with your own financing. Being prepared to walk away at any time will help keep them from pressuring you into spending more than you should.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:14 AM   #39 (permalink)
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There's a lot here to read, that I'll get into later, but I want to add my bit. I viewed the Z as "in demand" meaning that below MSRP was unlikely, but I kept watching. I did one visit in September to meet a salesman and see if it was really what I wanted. By December, I was seeing sales prices online. I negotiated with my salesman via email, and opened negotiations with another dealership on a similar model at the same time. (Dealer #2 didn't have the color I wanted, but he was a useful tool in my negotiation.) My negotiation took nearly 6 hours of back an forth emailing over 2 days, but being in my own environment, I was in control. We settled at 33K total bottom line (incl tax/title/dest) for a 09 Touring. Went in with a pre-approved loan check. Told their finance lady to beat the interest rate I got from Navy Federal Credit Union, and she did after realizing that I was serious. Picked it up the next day. Zing.
Lessons:
December is a good time to buy if you are patient.
"Last year's model" ain't so bad (no heated mirrors, so what.)
Get pre-approved, and then haggle on the interest rates.
Stay in control & take you time.
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:45 PM   #40 (permalink)
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This was the most informative car buying FAQ I've EVER come across on the internet or anywhere else. I read every line of it and I salute you for your efforts! Thanks!
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Old 11-30-2010, 02:59 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Just bought ym car Sat. But havent been financed with a bank yet. And that bastard F&I guy slipped that fabric protection GAP and Lo Jack ******** in on me. Can I still go to the dealer and tell then to take that out?
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:54 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

I have a question. I am very inexperienced when it comes to buying a car. the 370z is the first car i bought myself. my brother bought my previous car so I am really a newbie when it comes to all the paperwork that comes with buying a car. There's one thing on my bill i believe falls in the category of optional and that is the mechanical repair service contract which costs me an extra $1997 and bunch of other stuff like the dent rescue and windshield protection. I will be cancelling the windshield and dent stuff but my big question is what is the difference between the mechanical repair service contract and the warranty that comes with it? is it something that i should get? i currently have the platinum one which offers that most coverage available. thinking of cancelling it altogether or maybe just get the power train coverage. any thoughts, feedback, advice, suggestions would be greatly helpful.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:20 PM   #43 (permalink)
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First post here. I just wanted to say that the info in this thread is pure gold. It helped me get a great deal on the car I've always wanted.

I continue to believe that car-specific forums are far and away the best places to get accurate information, and this one is no exception.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:38 PM   #44 (permalink)
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im glad you like my charburger and cheeze fries post.

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Old 03-09-2011, 08:53 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Anyone getting a new car should definitely read everything in this thread. After buying a few new cars, I've grown to really hate the process. Most recently, I had helped my girlfriend buy a new 2011 Nissan Rogue and the first dealership we went to was pretty much your typical lets rip off the customer type deal.

First they had all these add-ons that they claimed were standard on all the cars on the dealership, some interior/exterior protection package, pin striping, tints and some other crap. The total for all this? around $3000. No thanks. Needless to say these guys wouldn't even come close to invoice when at least 2 other dealerships were willing to deal. Only reason we went to them first is because they were close by.

We did find a more straight up dealership that sold us the car at invoice. Best advice is to always check as many dealerships as you can and don't let the finance department sucker you into extended warranty's and other non essential items.
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