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Quick search I am only finding 2 MB, both are touring but one has sport package but no nav (over 12,000 miles) and the other has no sport package and
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#1 (permalink) |
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Quick search I am only finding 2 MB, both are touring but one has sport package but no nav (over 12,000 miles) and the other has no sport package and does not mention nav.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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This is the one I'm talking about, if it helps. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Yeah, I found that one, it is the one with no sport package and no nav it looks like. I found another one that was MB with sport package, but it has 12,000 miles on it.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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edit: NVM I found it....hmmm 355 miles away....I'll have to call about how much they charge for delivery. Last edited by vash_241987; 11-14-2009 at 02:03 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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#7 (permalink) |
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There's a lot here to read, that I'll get into later, but I want to add my bit. I viewed the Z as "in demand" meaning that below MSRP was unlikely, but I kept watching. I did one visit in September to meet a salesman and see if it was really what I wanted. By December, I was seeing sales prices online. I negotiated with my salesman via email, and opened negotiations with another dealership on a similar model at the same time. (Dealer #2 didn't have the color I wanted, but he was a useful tool in my negotiation.) My negotiation took nearly 6 hours of back an forth emailing over 2 days, but being in my own environment, I was in control. We settled at 33K total bottom line (incl tax/title/dest) for a 09 Touring. Went in with a pre-approved loan check. Told their finance lady to beat the interest rate I got from Navy Federal Credit Union, and she did after realizing that I was serious. Picked it up the next day. Zing.
Lessons: December is a good time to buy if you are patient. "Last year's model" ain't so bad (no heated mirrors, so what.) Get pre-approved, and then haggle on the interest rates. Stay in control & take you time. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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This was the most informative car buying FAQ I've EVER come across on the internet or anywhere else. I read every line of it and I salute you for your efforts! Thanks!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Hey guys,
I have a question. I am very inexperienced when it comes to buying a car. the 370z is the first car i bought myself. my brother bought my previous car so I am really a newbie when it comes to all the paperwork that comes with buying a car. There's one thing on my bill i believe falls in the category of optional and that is the mechanical repair service contract which costs me an extra $1997 and bunch of other stuff like the dent rescue and windshield protection. I will be cancelling the windshield and dent stuff but my big question is what is the difference between the mechanical repair service contract and the warranty that comes with it? is it something that i should get? i currently have the platinum one which offers that most coverage available. thinking of cancelling it altogether or maybe just get the power train coverage. any thoughts, feedback, advice, suggestions would be greatly helpful. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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First post here. I just wanted to say that the info in this thread is pure gold. It helped me get a great deal on the car I've always wanted.
I continue to believe that car-specific forums are far and away the best places to get accurate information, and this one is no exception. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Anyone getting a new car should definitely read everything in this thread. After buying a few new cars, I've grown to really hate the process. Most recently, I had helped my girlfriend buy a new 2011 Nissan Rogue and the first dealership we went to was pretty much your typical lets rip off the customer type deal.
First they had all these add-ons that they claimed were standard on all the cars on the dealership, some interior/exterior protection package, pin striping, tints and some other crap. The total for all this? around $3000. No thanks. Needless to say these guys wouldn't even come close to invoice when at least 2 other dealerships were willing to deal. Only reason we went to them first is because they were close by. We did find a more straight up dealership that sold us the car at invoice. Best advice is to always check as many dealerships as you can and don't let the finance department sucker you into extended warranty's and other non essential items.
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#14 (permalink) |
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So, I have a question, since I've not purchased my own car ever (still driving the one my parents originally bought for me eight years ago).
I have always been told, "No, don't put money down." on a new car, by my Dad. Yet, I see many people doing so to bring their payments down and such. Is this a good thing to do? I've always thought that it was kind of a waste, since you're putting money down on something that's going to depreciate by that amount (or more) the second you drive it off of the lot. Edit: Not sure if I should put money down and sell my SRT myself or use as trade-in either. Probably safer to sell myself to get quite a bit more out of it. Last edited by Haboob; 09-07-2012 at 03:26 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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You should put money down to the extent that you save money on interest. If you're getting a very low interest rate, it doesn't make much sense to put money down.
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