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How high to rev before shifting in each gear?

Originally Posted by Joepro I agree with this for the most part, remember why an engine needed to break it, to wear some parts in and at one time get

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Old 11-28-2013, 05:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Joepro View Post
I agree with this for the most part, remember why an engine needed to break it, to wear some parts in and at one time get all the left over bits of metal from poor machining, manufacturing is so much better now that I have only seen one locked up motor under 5k miles presumably from not breaking it in, it was a brand new Pontiac gran prix, a 1996. That said, there are many other moving parts in the trans and diff as well, so IMO(I did not buy mine new) I would drive it 1k easy change all the fluids and red line away..JMO. On topic I agree with others there is no perfect rpm, you will learn your car and engine and shift by sound, it will become second nature, not all situations are identical, we have hills everywhere, nothing it flat, which sometimes it requires more engine power to achieve the desired acceleration. I know when my car is going to hit red line without looking at the tach, you simply learn the car. Drive it and see what feels good, thats all.
Driving easy, if there are some parts left needing to break in still, will hold them back from their potential. The GTR is practically raced before it leaves the factory. It sees redline, full redline shifts, brakes are glowing orange etc. bikes are also no different when they leave Japan. The 370 will not get this treatment. You need to do full 60 to 10 mph breaks over and over 6-7 times to bed them in, you need to flex the motor and swell the piston rings to get them to seat more, and you need to drain all fluids and refill. Cars fully done in under 200 miles. Leaving the fluids in for 1k is to long. The diff at least has a piss poor magnet to catch metal. My tranny didn't.
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Old 11-27-2013, 02:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default How high to rev before shifting in each gear?

Feel free to hit redline after its broken in. Anyone who tells you that there's any danger to the motor when you hit fuel cut is unclear about the purpose of the rev limiter. If 7500 rpm would hurt the motor in any way, Nissan would have set the rev limiter lower.

I broke my car in just like the manual called for. There's a lot of opinions out there on how to do it, and its damn near impossible to prove one is better than another.
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by eurojjj19 View Post
I dont plan on driving it like i stole it all the time. But everyone likes to open it up once in a while. So can you, or anyone else, give me a rough estimate of max MPH for each gear (ie. what NOT to go over, if such numbers exist). I dont plan on coming close to those ranges, i just want to know for informations sake.

The reason all of these questions sound so noobish is because my first manual was a 94 Civic and it did NOT have a tachometer, so i had to base everything off of mph and engine sound. So im now trying to wrap my head around RPM being the main gauge of when to shift. So, sorry for the simplistic questions, but i am learning.
^that's fine to do with the Z too, when you DD it, you don't need to redline it on every gear, why'd you need to look at the number when you can feel the car...??
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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To be honest, I hardly ever see the RPM during gear shifts. You could hear the engine and feel it when it's time to shift, especially if you have an after market exhaust. Pay attention to the surroundings is more important.
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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370Z is a rough car to shift with. It takes a long time to get used to. But I believe shifting between 2.2k~2.5k is ideal for daily driving because the gear locks in a lot more smoother and it's easier to control without much rocking back and forth. Shifting past 3k causes a lot of jerking/rocking motion with gears going in significantly rougher and forceful.
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well... i just feel the touqe. If the car feels slow in a gear and speed that am in, i just shift down. If the car feels too roughf i just shift up and if am racing thats a whole other story.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jaedub View Post
370Z is a rough car to shift with. It takes a long time to get used to. But I believe shifting between 2.2k~2.5k is ideal for daily driving because the gear locks in a lot more smoother and it's easier to control without much rocking back and forth. Shifting past 3k causes a lot of jerking/rocking motion with gears going in significantly rougher and forceful.
? Not my experience at all.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jaedub View Post
370Z is a rough car to shift with. It takes a long time to get used to. But I believe shifting between 2.2k~2.5k is ideal for daily driving because the gear locks in a lot more smoother and it's easier to control without much rocking back and forth. Shifting past 3k causes a lot of jerking/rocking motion with gears going in significantly rougher and forceful.
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? Not my experience at all.
This just points out the differences in how we drive a stick.

If you think the Z is boggin at 2.5K, then you downshift when you need the power.

I like running at lower rpms. They see me Rollin' They Hatin'.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So far everyone has this wrong, wrong, wrong!!!!


I recommend you take your Z to your local dyno and look at the chart they print out for you. where you see your power begin to drop off, that is your new shift point.

why not spend a couple bucks to find the most optimal shift point I say
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jlo370z View Post
So far everyone has this wrong, wrong, wrong!!!!


I recommend you take your Z to your local dyno and look at the chart they print out for you. where you see your power begin to drop off, that is your new shift point.

why not spend a couple bucks to find the most optimal shift point I say
Pretty strong statement without backing it up with some numbers.
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TreeSemdyZee View Post
Pretty "sarcastic" statement without backing it up with some numbers.

there fixed it for you
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlo370z View Post
So far everyone has this wrong, wrong, wrong!!!!


I recommend you take your Z to your local dyno and look at the chart they print out for you. where you see your power begin to drop off, that is your new shift point.

why not spend a couple bucks to find the most optimal shift point I say

"where you see the power begin to drop off"

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Old 12-02-2013, 05:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by andre12031948 View Post
"where you see the power begin to drop off"

.


shhhhhhh thats our secret
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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shhhhhhh thats our secret
At least at my end.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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All of you are a bunch of rookies…. The only gear I am in is reverse and that is how I drive.


I’m BS with you. To break the car in I shifted no higher than 3k RMP’s, but didn’t pass 70 MPH. Once you get an exhaust you will easily shift between 3-4k RMP’s in all gears & sometimes higher. When you downshift with an exhaust it is sexy to hear and see the RPM’s jump to 3-4k RPM’s.
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