Loss of 22.5% HP

FuszNissan · 08-14-2009, 09:24 AM

I would recomend doing a baseline dyno first, then do one with mods. This is the only way to truly know what gains you are getting

m4a1mustang · 08-14-2009, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FuszNissan

I would recomend doing a baseline dyno first, then do one with mods. This is the only way to truly know what gains you are getting

That's what I'm doing. Baseline tomorrow, dyno after intakes in 2 weeks, and then again after FI CBE.

CBRich · 08-14-2009, 09:51 AM

And of course the baseline dyno and subsequent dynos must be performed on the same machine. Otherwise it's totally pointless.

m4a1mustang · 08-14-2009, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

And of course the baseline dyno and subsequent dynos must be performed on the same machine. Otherwise it's totally pointless.

Gentlemen... I am not a noob.

kannibul · 08-15-2009, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich

And of course the baseline dyno and subsequent dynos must be performed on the same machine. Otherwise it's totally pointless.

Even then, taken the same day, within the same part of the day if possible.

lando76 · 08-15-2009, 01:27 PM

thanks fellas for all your input. This is why I asked the question because I really didnt believe the loss myself. I will stick with one dyno the whole way through.

tbss370z · 08-21-2009, 08:02 PM

I dynoed my car on a Dynojet today and the weather conditions were 90 F 29.91 Hg. I don't think they used fans. My best run was 272.17HP and 221.93 Torque. Despite the weather conditions, doesn't that seem awful low?

m4a1mustang · 08-21-2009, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbss370z

I dynoed my car on a Dynojet today and the weather conditions were 90 F 29.91 Hg. I don't think they used fans. My best run was 272.17HP and 221.93 Torque. Despite the weather conditions, doesn't that seem awful low?

No. That's in the range of stock whp on a DynoJet. It's not the highest but that could definitely be a result of the conditions.

MightyBobo · 08-14-2009, 10:23 AM

Sigh. Different dyno's read different numbers - ESPECIALLY if a load is put onto it! A Mustang or Dyno-Dynamics dyno will generally read low. Altered Atmosphere's dyno is a Dynojet dyno, which doesnt put a load on the motor. They always read higher than others. I will put money that the OP's dyno was a dyno of the type that puts a load on the driveline.

Ryan@IP · 08-14-2009, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MightyBobo

I will put money that the OP's dyno was a dyno of the type that puts a load on the driveline.

And that would be an excellent bet. 258whp is exactly what our bone stock 370Z made on our Dyno Dynamics.

[YOUTUBEHQ]X8iLCR-Yqo8[/YOUTUBEHQ]

theDreamer · 08-14-2009, 03:03 PM

The best thing you can do is pick a shop/dyno and stick with it for the life of the car. I did my baseline with a dyno dynamics at a certain shop and will be going whenever I feel I need to re-dyno my car after an upgrade or need a tune from them.

theDreamer · 08-14-2009, 03:12 PM

Contact some of the board members, they have some great Paint dynos, best numbers yet.

Hi-TecDesigns · 08-14-2009, 05:50 PM

To add to Ryan's reply...

Hub dynos, such as the DynaPack, will be more consistent from test to test than roller dynos. With roller dynos, you can have differing air pressures in the tires, the dyno monkey can strap a car down harder one day and lighter the next, etc. Hub dynos remove at least that portion of the variability. What's left is a solid drive train that should give you results well within the statistical error range of the dyno itself (0.5-1%ish range). A roller dyno can easily give you errors in the 5% range if not set up consistently.

Whatever style you choose to take a baseline on, stay with it after modding to see what gains you achieved. If it's a roller dyno, I suggest 2-3 different days (with hopefully different guys setting it up) to average out inconsistencies in setup. Yes, this obviously gets expensive on a roller dyno, but if you want solid numbers you can either do it that way or go with a hub dyno. The same thing should be done after the mods are in place to see what was gained. If you go from one style to another, you need to take another baseline. Mustang dynos are notoriously low in numbers, but that doesn't mean they're wrong, and hub dynos are typically the highest values. You cannot compare one person's Mustang dyno to another's hub dyno run and expect to compare apples to apples.

08-14-2009, 09:24 AM	#1 (permalink)
FuszNissan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: St. Louis Posts: 14,275 Drives: Pure Sex Rep Power: 544	I would recomend doing a baseline dyno first, then do one with mods. This is the only way to truly know what gains you are getting __________________ Mods: Too Many to list! LouFuszNissan ZDAYZ 2012

08-21-2009, 08:02 PM	#7 (permalink)
tbss370z Base Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: King of Prussia, PA Posts: 40 Drives: 09 Nissan GP 370Z M6 Rep Power: 18	I dynoed my car on a Dynojet today and the weather conditions were 90 F 29.91 Hg. I don't think they used fans. My best run was 272.17HP and 221.93 Torque. Despite the weather conditions, doesn't that seem awful low? __________________ 09 Nissan 370Z Base + Sport/Ichiban spacers/Takeda Intake with heat shields/HKS Exhaust/ 88 Porsche 944T, 06 Trailblazer SS/

08-14-2009, 10:23 AM	#9 (permalink)
MightyBobo A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 8,465 Drives: No cars; only bikes Rep Power: 54	Sigh. Different dyno's read different numbers - ESPECIALLY if a load is put onto it! A Mustang or Dyno-Dynamics dyno will generally read low. Altered Atmosphere's dyno is a Dynojet dyno, which doesnt put a load on the motor. They always read higher than others. I will put money that the OP's dyno was a dyno of the type that puts a load on the driveline. __________________ I don't own a car anymore.

08-14-2009, 03:03 PM	#11 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4212	The best thing you can do is pick a shop/dyno and stick with it for the life of the car. I did my baseline with a dyno dynamics at a certain shop and will be going whenever I feel I need to re-dyno my car after an upgrade or need a tune from them. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

08-14-2009, 03:12 PM	#12 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4212	Contact some of the board members, they have some great Paint dynos, best numbers yet. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

08-14-2009, 09:51 AM	#3 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 546	And of course the baseline dyno and subsequent dynos must be performed on the same machine. Otherwise it's totally pointless.

08-15-2009, 01:27 PM	#6 (permalink)
lando76 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: ca Posts: 107 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 17	thanks fellas for all your input. This is why I asked the question because I really didnt believe the loss myself. I will stick with one dyno the whole way through.

08-14-2009, 05:50 PM	#13 (permalink)
Hi-TecDesigns Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Glenelg, MD Posts: 146 Drives: 370 Rdstr AT7 BkChry Rep Power: 17	To add to Ryan's reply... Hub dynos, such as the DynaPack, will be more consistent from test to test than roller dynos. With roller dynos, you can have differing air pressures in the tires, the dyno monkey can strap a car down harder one day and lighter the next, etc. Hub dynos remove at least that portion of the variability. What's left is a solid drive train that should give you results well within the statistical error range of the dyno itself (0.5-1%ish range). A roller dyno can easily give you errors in the 5% range if not set up consistently. Whatever style you choose to take a baseline on, stay with it after modding to see what gains you achieved. If it's a roller dyno, I suggest 2-3 different days (with hopefully different guys setting it up) to average out inconsistencies in setup. Yes, this obviously gets expensive on a roller dyno, but if you want solid numbers you can either do it that way or go with a hub dyno. The same thing should be done after the mods are in place to see what was gained. If you go from one style to another, you need to take another baseline. Mustang dynos are notoriously low in numbers, but that doesn't mean they're wrong, and hub dynos are typically the highest values. You cannot compare one person's Mustang dyno to another's hub dyno run and expect to compare apples to apples. __________________ http://hi-tecdesigns.com/images/pict...on%20Small.gif 2000 S2000 Brickyard Red Metallic w/ Romanesque Crimson Kandy, custom everything else

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