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Originally Posted by SS_Firehawk I'm so confused Me too. I was very drunk when I wrote this.
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#1 (permalink) |
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2009 370Z NISMO #477 | AAM Competition Short Tails | AAM Competition HFCs | K&N Typhoon CAI | Kenwood DPX300U | Rockford Fosgate PRIME R300-4 | Rockford Fosgate Punch P165 | Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 | Polk Audio db1001 | 15% Tints | GTR Start Button | |
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Siorry bruh... I feel your pain. My first Z was totalled after 9 weeks. Dealing with that is a bitch. I hope it works out for you.
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Favorite Quote. "I'm not gonna kill you... I'm just gonna Bash Your Face In" Jack Nicholson-"The Shining". 1980 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Lol, are you replying to the wrong thread?
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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Drives: 13 PW sport 6mt
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Was there anything regarding SRM overheating on the track? Or is there literally no difference compared to doing it yourself minus the human error?
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35% Hooper Optik | Takeda Attack CAI | F.I. HFC | Hotchkis Sway Bar | Stillen 24row | OS Giken Super Lock LSD | TK Shift Knob | EVO-R Carbon Diffuser
Last edited by dP3NGU1N; 07-10-2013 at 12:38 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Some say it can be harder on your clutch/tranny because you pay less attention to how you shift, but on paper, there's nothing to overheat vs normal method of rev matching.
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