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Steering lock problem solved (for real)

Originally Posted by Baer383 Why wait till your warranty exp. Just take the fuse out and try it,if you don't like it put it back in. this is no different

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Old 06-02-2012, 12:15 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baer383 View Post
Why wait till your warranty exp.

Just take the fuse out and try it,if you don't like it put it back in.
this is no different than removing your dome light fuse.
yeah.. its a fuse..
the thing is meant to blow and be replaced...
blown fuse = same thing as pulled fuse. cuts the circuit.
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:22 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by daisuke149 View Post
yeah.. its a fuse..
the thing is meant to blow and be replaced...
blown fuse = same thing as pulled fuse. cuts the circuit.
Paranoia at it's best.
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:22 PM   #183 (permalink)
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I noticed last night when I went to start the car that:
1) car was sitting for about 4 hours in the garage
2) Clutch was FULLY depressed
3) Car was in neutral

and upon pushing the start button there was no response. Pushed it again after releasing and redepressing the clutch and it started.

Again, nothing to worry about, just wondering if there is a gremlin in the ECU looking for a completed signal from the steering lock....

Still worth pulling the fuse regardless!
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:33 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baer383 View Post
If you push the button too fast then you will have this issue.
After owning this car for about 18 months I have never once pushed the button too fast, so it shouldn't be an issue
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:33 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
I noticed last night when I went to start the car that:
1) car was sitting for about 4 hours in the garage
2) Clutch was FULLY depressed
3) Car was in neutral

and upon pushing the start button there was no response. Pushed it again after releasing and redepressing the clutch and it started.

Again, nothing to worry about, just wondering if there is a gremlin in the ECU looking for a completed signal from the steering lock....

Still worth pulling the fuse regardless!
It's not a gremlin in the edu mine does it and it's a 7at with the fuse in b/c I have the upgraded "D" lock plus my wife Altima does it to.
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:28 PM   #186 (permalink)
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Mod done to my 09.
On initial startup after pulling the fuse, I did get the delay, but who cares? I'm at 55K miles and have been waiting for my lock to fail at any time.
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:33 PM   #187 (permalink)
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i need to do this ASAP
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:42 PM   #188 (permalink)
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[Would be interesting to see if the wire harness causes the same issue or not although this would still be the better solution for me.[/QUOTE]

Installed harness today since I bought it before fuse pull solution. I see no delay with harness.
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:59 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ridgerunner View Post
[Would be interesting to see if the wire harness causes the same issue or not although this would still be the better solution for me.

My 7at with fuse in has a delay once in a while so what would that mean,

Nothing.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:03 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz

Last edited by fritz; 06-02-2012 at 03:05 PM. Reason: "already" inserted at the top
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:11 PM   #191 (permalink)
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I pulled the fuse last week, I had the delay thing happen to me this morning, Ummmmmmmm. Someone needs to figure this out.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:16 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritz View Post
Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz
I already understand what you wrote in the other thread,but the diagram has a different opinion that's why I said go back and read it and post it on this thread by posting your opinion doesn't help people reading this, if I'm wrong(and I doubt it)then show me and I'll admit I'm wrong till then buying a $50 harness is insane.
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Last edited by Baer383; 06-02-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:01 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritz View Post
Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz
you really don't seem to understand the idea behind a fuse then or a fuse box...

The way to pull this fuse is the same way any dealer person would by removal of the box and pulling it out. There is no interference and no issues unless you decide to cut all the wires coming out of it... If you pull the box and see for yourself maybe you'd actually understand.

Also the entire idea of worry over a dealer looking at a missing fuse.. i hope to god you haven't otherwise modified anything on your car because they would definitely look at those more than a missing fuse.. Seriously?

Getting to a fuse is easy btw, if you think its difficult, please never modify anything on your car other than applying a removable sticker to the window. Even then, please consult the manual... as it may prove difficult for you.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #194 (permalink)
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I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!

Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own.

I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:14 PM   #195 (permalink)
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I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!

Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own.

I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that.
That is exactly what I want Trip,I was simply asking Fritz if he could go back and reread the wiring diagram to see that fuse 48 does nothing but power the S/L ,I already have an idea what the delay is it is no big deal but I have to reread the diagram myself.

Thanks Triple for getting involved
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