Oil temps: 335 comparitive observation.

Jordo!

Hm. And VDC was off? I've only ever encountered any major lag if I floored it and the VDC was on -- this is even on OEM throttle map

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juld0zer

i usually drive with VDC on and on both instances the VDC light was not blinking. Nor was there a loss of traction but i guess the sensation is similar but i wouldn't say it's the same because usually when VDC kills the party, the gas pedal literally stops responding.

Jordo!

Right -- VDC (brain fart on my end).

Slip light or not, VDC could still be affecting things. Try it with VDC off?

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7speed

Hey even the new z/28 gets hot. I'm not sure if it had a limp mode though. But latest road and track says "3 hard laps with air temps barely in 80s, the camaro oil temp was 300 plus, which is unacceptable in any high performance street car."

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juld0zer

but the problem is that our cars could be considered to be in the same league yet power output tapers off at reasonably mild temperatures while the other cars are still happily pounding away, not reducing power output until later.

cv129

Oil cooler, worth every penny.

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juld0zer

oil coolers were fitted to 2011 models onwards here, afaik

2011 Nismo#91

2012 Onward were fitted with an oil to coolant heat exchanger. Not as effective as a dedicated oil cooler but better than nothing. People are really overreacting about this whole oil temp thing chances are their previous cars ran much hotter and had no effect. I'd rather have an oil pressure gauge then a temp one, low oil pressure will kill an engine much faster than oil at 280F ever would.

SurfDog

My main issue with a 25 row cooler is getting the oil *up* to temp during cooler weather. my gauge sits at 140 (all the way cold) all the way to work (one hour drive) all winter. Hence I keep the rpms below 3500 all winter waiting for my temps to at least hit 150. If you run a cooler, fab up a blocker plate to shroud the cooler.

And yes I have a thermostatic plate on my cooler (from Z1) it just never fully closes.

I'm considering running a lighter oil in the winter, but that seems a bit scary as I don't really know how to safely chose one.

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juld0zer

i guess there are several perspectives of concern surrounding 'high' oil temps.

- performance degradation (and at what temp it occurs and why it occurs)
- engine longevity/protection
- scary gauge syndrome
- bandwagon followers

Yes, a lot of modern cars probably get their oil way hotter than our cars under similar conditions but do they noticeably reduce performance? I dont think most folks are overreacting. Most of us just want the car to behave as a sports car should and tolerate the extra strain. But when your throttle response lags in normal city driving then something isn't right. Nissan could've engineered the motor to be more tolerant to oil temps but we cant change that. So the only thing we can do is prolong the pleasure with oil coolers, software tweaks and oil choice!

i agree that a loss of oil pressure would kill an engine quicker but the damage would usually be done by the time someone notices a catastrophic loss of oil pressure.

Surfdog - lots of folks have good experience with Mobil 1 0w40

DLSTR

S-Dog,

I have a nice plate fashioned via the DIY section here. In Germany I have it on 8 months a year. It might come off next week. With it on I see 190+ in the winter and now its about 200-220 for very short periods of time. Problem is it might be 10C cooler next week so I keep it on. At night when things cool off it needs to be on. On the Autobahn at speed on a nice but not hot day the oil is about 200 w cover on. Perfect.
I use 5-30 year round. You dont need a lighter oil at all. The dealers here use 5-30 Castrol year round.

shotgungho

i've got a 2012 and this factor cooler doesn't do ****. i drive around with some friends and it went to 260 in about 5 minutes. i have the stillen 25 row now and with the same kind of driving i was barely over 220.

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15,000 miles between oil changes can not be right.

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juld0zer

that sounds about right for a late model BMW. They don't go by mileage or time intervals but a Condition Based Service scheme. Basically the onboard computer tells the driver what it needs so depending on your driving style, 15k miles might be possible but it is at the high end of the mileage range for CBS. When the driver presents the key at the BMW dealer, the dealer scans the key and retrieves the service data and that determines what maintenance is required at that point. At least our cars have a dipstick!
Also, of all the 135's, 335's and 535's i've driven, i'm yet to drive one that behaves differently when the oil/water/air is 'hot'. This is with a/c on too

Without sparking another oil debate, i'd say if the oil you use meets the extended service interval requirements of a major OEM then it should be good enough to serve in our car. eg. BMW LL01 (LL04 is for the diesels)

Fountainhead

What this all boils down to is 370Z "Sports Car" does not equal, "Race Car" or "Drag Car". Although I agree that Nissan got off on the wrong foot hiding that cooler in the Auto review car fender long ago. Even the new Stingray Corvette falls into this category. My neighbor has a new Stingray, he takes it to the track, and after a few laps....guess what......wait for it.....Clutch Pedal Sticks to the FLOOR! This on a 60+ thousand dollar car....even the Stingray is NOT a race/drag car.

PS Even in blazing FL temps driving all conditions my Z (2009) never gets above say 210/220.