engine break-in contradiction

Originally Posted by Armonster

Because the manufacturer's goals are not always the same as a car enthusiast's goals. It's possible, for example, that Nissan wants us to break-in the engine in the way that causes the fewest warranty concerns down the road, even at the expense of some additional power. I'm not saying that is the case, but hopefully you see the point. We simply don't know for sure. That clearly doesn't bother you, and that's fine. But it's pretty ironic that we have a forum dedicated to modifying our cars (i.e. changing what the all-knowing expert manufacturer gave us), but then we aren't even interested in questioning their suggested break-in procedure.




I have no evidence, nor do I claim that my method helped or hindered anything in any way. That was not the point of my post (see above for the point).




I am not trying to convince you otherwise, so go for it.

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

Don't forget a portion of their "recommendations" are tied to safety. Part of the reason they want you to baby the car is so that you don't wrap it around a tree within the first 100 miles because you're not used to the car yet. Also, if you drive it like you stole it right from the start you risk developing heat spots on certain parts of the internal components and that can lead to future warranty claims. Although, this is highly unlikely these days.

An engine isn't 'new technology' but the way it's designed and manufactured are. With the tight tolerances and materials engines are built with today it's easy to get 100k miles (or much more) from an engine without so much as a worry (there are exceptions I realize).

The basics of a proper break-in are simple. Fluids->Proper Temps->Increasing Load->Not Overheating->Proper Cool Down

What I do for all my vehicles:

1. Ensure ALL fluids are correct and at the proper levels before each drive.
2. Allow the car to warm up properly by driving around (calmly) until at normal operating temps. Don't just freeway cruise though.
3. Slowly ease into giving the vehicle more load. Rev it a little higher each time you go out but no need to thrash it. Also use engine braking to ensure proper seating of rings.
4. Drive moderately aggressive like this for 10-15 min then drive like your grandma for about 10 min and park the car. Let it cool down fully.
5. Continue this until approx. 500 miles then on step 3 give it full gas to redline, just once or twice every 3-4 times you drive the car. Run through the gears to legal speed.
6. Once you get to 750 or so miles there's really nothing more to do.

Don't forget to change the engine oil & filter. I go 600 miles for motorcycles and 1,800 miles for cars/trucks before first oil change. If it takes you 12 months to go 1,800 miles in a new car then change at 3-4 months.

I'm still a firm believer in the need to heat cycle a new engine. It's probably not needed these days but as another member said, do what makes you comfortable. Remember that you're not just doing the break-in on the engine, you're doing it for the entire car.

Do what works for you but it's nothing to really worry over.

Originally Posted by Baer383

You want to break in the engine as quick as possible to get the rings to be completely seated.

All the cars I've owned have been driven hard right out of gate I change the oil @ 500 miles and every 5000 miles after that,and haven't had anything but positive results.

Everybody has there opinion about this but the goal is the same the rings & all parts must be seated quickly.

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

Sweet! Hey, if this has worked for you no reason to switch methods.

I'm pretty sure the break-in method isn't critical anymore so all this discussion is a waste.

Bottom line: You're not going to ruin an engine by following the break-in guidlines published in the owners manual.

Originally Posted by Baer383

As said above the motors are some what broken in by the time the car is assembled,but this discussion is not a waste there has been a debate about this for a long time here is a link with very interesting look at this topic(if you are willing to read it)

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

To me the most important part of the whole process is lubrication and heat management.

Originally Posted by FromG2Z

I respect your methods... and I assume (hope) that you have concrete evidence/support/proof that your methods have worked. If so, great. If not, then I question WHY you are doing it this way.

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

Because I want to and it's my $ not yours.

I don't really care if you question my methods, to each their own. What's your background in mechanical engineering and metallurgy?

With several new vehicles in my past I've never (knock on wood) had a mechanical breakdown, oil consumption issue, etc. What works for me might not work for you, so do what you want.

Originally Posted by FromG2Z

Thumper, your first statement ends it all and summarizes everything. Yes, it's your $, same way it's my $ for my car, and the OP's $ for his car. Like I said, if it works for you, then great. I was just wondering where and how you came about with these methods. That's all. I hope you didn't take this as disrespect to your methods as that was not my intent.

I have an engineering background, but not to the extent that would qualify me to know the validity of EITHER method of break-in, hence my resolve to go with the manufacturer's methods.

Originally Posted by FromG2Z

I guess I can somewhat see your point. If someone bought a brand new Z with the sole purpose of modding it be a high powered drag car from the get-go, then going against the manufacturer's recommendations might be plausible. But again, my point is, unless there's real proof that driving it beyond 4k rpm does yield SOME benefit (in your case, power), why do it based on circumstantial evidence? For what you know, there's still a chance you "could" be hurting your car in the long run, correct?

The only thing that seems more "solid" to me is what a manufacturer recommends.... unless some other automotive engineer can speak to the pro's and con's of driving under or over 4k rpm for the first 1200 miles, I think (again this is just my opinion) the best thing to do would be to follow what Nissan recommends. Wouldn't some form of Longevity appeal to 90% of car owners?

Again, I respect your opinion and I see some of your points. We can respectfully agree to disagree on some points (not all). I'm cool with that.