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Another Vegas Run and Oil Temps scared me

You know, ive been concerned with my oil temps this summer too. Ive had the car for only 9 months now, so when I had it i never saw the

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Old 07-28-2010, 01:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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You know, ive been concerned with my oil temps this summer too. Ive had the car for only 9 months now, so when I had it i never saw the temps climb past 220 give or take a few (because it was mostly cooler weather), but now that summers here, ive been regularly hitting 240-250 on my way home from work and its beginning to concern me.

What is the breakdown temp for RedLine motor oil ?

I know i need to invest in an oil cooler soon, but im glad that ive been using RedLine for the last 4 oil changes... at least it gives me some peace of mind knowing its a better quality oil.
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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a double double? lol
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I tried to do a Ninja edit. Damn..lol

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a double double? lol
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nissan does my oil changes.. Whatever they used is what I have.. it sure wasn't cheap to get it changed, I know that!

I appreciate all the responses!
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'll be doing a trip to Vegas prolly Friday, so I'll keep an eye on my temps and see what I get TamZ. I'm 7AT as well, so we'll see if its a common issue, or a localized problem.
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Is it scary? Well...yes and no. I mean, I wouldn't be worried that the engine is going to blow up. However, I'd look into ways to keep it from occuring in the future. An oil cooler would be #1 on my to do list if my car ever hit 260. Mine has never reached 230, and I drive in 110 humid summers here in KC. Even when I drive like an ***, the highest I've managed is 228.

Ideal oil temps are around 200-210. If someone cares to argue this point, feel free, but I don't really care. As a ballpark range, I'm fine with it. Many fine cars generally run hotter than this, especially newer cars that are more worried about fuel economy than engine longevity...but most cars don't have oil temp guages. Ignorance is bliss.

At 260, your oil is basically oxidizing four times faster than it would at 220. This means that your shiny bits are not being protected as they deserve to be. That doesn't mean catastrophic failure is imminent. It means it is shortening the life of your engine. The oil is breaking down faster, and the shiny bits are grinding over each other instead of slipping over the oil. Sludge deposits form, and the shiny bits can also rust...so I wouldn't be able to call them shiny bits anymore.

I'd also find out what oil the dealer is putting in your engine. If you like your car enough to post in here so much, than you obviously care about your car. You should find out exactly what you're letting strangers pour into her heart. I use Pennzoil Platinum, it is a synthetic with no ester. Many in here use Redline, and ester synthetic. Nissan recommends their own ester oil, but it is not synthetic, and there's a good chance your dealer did not use it because it is not required, only recommended. My guess is they put in whatever is most profitable for them. Good for them, not so much for you and your car. I'm sure they put in a reasonable oil, but I'm 100% positive there are better options than whatever they did put in her.
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Old 07-27-2010, 09:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sludge deposits form, and the shiny bits can also rust...so I wouldn't be able to call them shiny bits anymore.
Bearing surfaces are made from an alloy of copper, tin, and lead (typically) or aluminum and silicon for modern Japanese engines like ours. None of these alloys can rust - they are non-ferrous. Our crankshafts are forged from high-grade stainless steel and do not readily rust unless left for the elements.

The only oil-lubricated component that can effectively rust in our engines are the 2nd compression rings, which are probably made from ductile cast iron. That will never happen, though, because the piston ring interfaces with the cast iron cylinder liners (which can also technically rust, but never do because of the wall-to-piston-ring interaction).

I think you're confusing oil oxidation at high temperatures with metal oxidation...

Sludge usually occurs due to water or other contaminants built up in the oil - it forms at low temperatures, not high. It's varnish that forms at high oil temperatures, and that can usually be witnessed by simply popping a valve cover and looking inside the cylinder head. Pretty apparent, and it should never be seen on an engine that has had regular oil changes with a good quality conventional (Castrol GTX comes to mind) or synthetic.
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow2k View Post
Is it scary? Well...yes and no. I mean, I wouldn't be worried that the engine is going to blow up. However, I'd look into ways to keep it from occuring in the future. An oil cooler would be #1 on my to do list if my car ever hit 260. Mine has never reached 230, and I drive in 110 humid summers here in KC. Even when I drive like an ***, the highest I've managed is 228.

Ideal oil temps are around 200-210. If someone cares to argue this point, feel free, but I don't really care. As a ballpark range, I'm fine with it. Many fine cars generally run hotter than this, especially newer cars that are more worried about fuel economy than engine longevity...but most cars don't have oil temp guages. Ignorance is bliss.

At 260, your oil is basically oxidizing four times faster than it would at 220. This means that your shiny bits are not being protected as they deserve to be. That doesn't mean catastrophic failure is imminent. It means it is shortening the life of your engine. The oil is breaking down faster, and the shiny bits are grinding over each other instead of slipping over the oil. Sludge deposits form, and the shiny bits can also rust...so I wouldn't be able to call them shiny bits anymore.

I'd also find out what oil the dealer is putting in your engine. If you like your car enough to post in here so much, than you obviously care about your car. You should find out exactly what you're letting strangers pour into her heart. I use Pennzoil Platinum, it is a synthetic with no ester. Many in here use Redline, and ester synthetic. Nissan recommends their own ester oil, but it is not synthetic, and there's a good chance your dealer did not use it because it is not required, only recommended. My guess is they put in whatever is most profitable for them. Good for them, not so much for you and your car. I'm sure they put in a reasonable oil, but I'm 100% positive there are better options than whatever they did put in her.
But that was the original point of this thread. The OP was worried about a breakdown, not engine wear. My take is Nissan should actually require a good synthetic much like they require 91 octane or better. As far as what temp oil breaks down, that varies widely. There are plenty of oils that are good way up the temp range, they just tend to cost more.
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Old 07-27-2010, 03:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I didn't read the whole thread but high oil temps will be an ongoing issue. Since you're in NV it would probably be best to get a big oil cooler, that way you're covered for a track day and regular driving, you won't have overcooling because of NV weather. I saw as high as 250 when I got on it for periods of less than 10 min now with the cooler I have not cracked 205.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I drove my Z yesterday for a little trip to Camarillo and I watched the temp gauge. It was 75 degrees ambient temp outside and oil temp stayed around 190. That seems the normal range for my car, considering I don't really drive it very hard.

I haven't been able to get it into Nissan yet this week as my little son had a hernia surgery repair yesterday. If I don't get the oil changed this week, I will get it done first thing next week and see what they have to say about my oil temps on my trip.
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