:ugh2:

It breaths. :rofl2:

Yup. Im still breathing :tiphat:

Someone called "CLEANUP ON AISLE 5" Street Racing content :icon17:

Who? Us? Nahhhhh...... We moderate ourselves fairly well. I even held back today splurging on some new Z parts and just purchased the Trakspec side hood vents instead.

Think we did a pretty good job moderating on this subject. :tup: He got a mild beat down. :rofl2:

Yep. His quest for "attaboys" was effectively thwarted.

Spit-shined the Z, and a quick photo shoot before going into work for a bit.

Couple more poses.. shes growing up nicely!

This past weekend I performed an under vehicle and under hood inspection. Check and corrected all fluids and set my tire pressure. I also changed my oil and drained and filled my coolant.

Next I installed new PCV valves and installed new spark plugs. For anybody doing spark plugs for the first time, blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before removing the spark plugs once you take the coils off. This will get any foreign material out of the spark plug well so it does not fall into the cylinders as you remove the spark plugs. Lastly, I installed new throttle body gaskets.

Spark plug torque - 14 Ft lbs.
Coil bolt torque - 62 in lbs.
Throttle body bolt torque - 102 in lbs.
PCV valve torque - 22 in lbs.

Happy wrenching everyone. :driving:

Sold my original Silver RPF1s on Sunday. Put in an order for some new CF10s

Found the differential bushing has busted, so ordered the Z1 urethane kit. Also added the subframe collars to round things out while I’m down there.

I really like my subframe collars. I only have the rear set installed since doing the front part myself would require removing shaved off bolts (I need to schedule a time to go in and get those done.)

Those plus my solid diff bushings resulted in me car wanting to put the power down with urgency.

How are you going to remove the oem diff bushing?

The Old Man and I have done his 350Z with Z1’s removal tool, so I will be utilizing that again.

That's the hard way. And it's a POS. :rofl2: I tried to use it and gave up. :shakes head: I've done 3 diff bushings so far. Takes me 20 minutes to remove the diff bushing. I use a deep 2" hole saw to cut the center section out. Don't use a cordless drill. They don't have enough power and get hot too quickly. Use a good 1/2 electric drill. Then a sawzall to cut 2 to 3 cuts in the outer shell. Then use a muffler tool to remove the outer shell. Starting at the saw cuts.

I’m sure we have all except the muffler tool, which is only a store ride away.

Thanks for the advice!

If you do it my way. The only place I found a DEEP 2" hole saw is at Home Depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-2...00CT/301697691

And I used an inside muffler chisel.

Just this last weekend, I raced in an autocross event for the first time with my university's driving club (Baylor Driving Club). This one was hosted by Texas A&M and was in College Station, Texas.

I was one of two 370Zs. Mine was competing bone stock, and the other...definitely was not. A yellow 40th anniversary whose home was the inside of a trailer. License plate was "THE Z" :eekdance:

A hell of an event, a lot of fun, and a fantastic platform for me to further my understanding of my car. I took a couple of photos of Prince after the event (I was too over my head to be taking any during) still all taped up--pictured with Prince is a very, very, content, helmet-haired me. :rofl2:

How are you going to speak of a yellow 40th and not post a picture of it?

I didn't get one this time around...next month!

Z's are courageous and fierce machines! They are not yellow, no matter how many anniversaries they have been around to live.

:confused:

:rofl2:

Over the head.

He wanted to say yellow isn’t a fitting color for, what he perceives as, the Z’s character.

Yellow belly. :rofl2:

:iagree: :owned:

zzzzzzzzzzzzzing................there it goes. You didn't even have to duck. :rofl2:

:icon17:

Happy bday to me. Got my BBK in and made a birthday lasagna for myself. Homemade noodles, bolognese sauce, bechamel sauce, sweet sausage, 30/70 beef, and a brick of parm cheese.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7893/...ab1f34ce_c.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7888/...d4ed2f9b_c.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7898/...35613139_c.jpg

:yum:

finished up the pvc delete

http://www.the370z.com/members/-zs-c...c-delete-3.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/-zs-c...c-delete-2.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/-zs-c...pvc-delete.jpg

Chin Track Days at Virginia International Raceway - and had to call it a day after coming to a stop on the track. No fun. Cancelled tomorrow's track day as a result.

My '13 370Z Touring - 30K, bone stock and well maintained - had the following problem(s?).

After 3 laps (not competitive, in a training session) the accelerator pedal went "dead" and produced no acceleration. The motor was still running until it came to a stop and then it stalled and would not refire - until it sat for about 5 minutes when it would restart and drive normally.

Good readings on water and oil temp, no warning lights or messages.

Has it scanned by race mechanics and there were no codes. What they did find was the left side air box apparently had a squirrel nest starting in it - it was crammed with leaves and and things and the face of the filter seemed to have bite marks on it but was otherwise intact. It was enough to block the face of the filter entirely so everybody said "fixed".

After a street test dive we took it back on track and it did the exact same thing. After several laps it lost acceleration, stopped, stalled and would not fire (turned over well) and then restarted after being towed off (less than five minutes). We called it a day and it acted normally on a non-stop three hour interstate drive home without any problem whatsoever.

Right now I am mystified. My research is just beginning but anyone that can comment would be appreciated!

you got those calipers from ebay too?

Any chance this was fuel starvation?

Yea. Gave them a shot. Also grabbed their rotors. As far a si cna tell, they're quality parts. Nothing stands out as either being cheap or unsafe. Painy appears to be good quality and the seals look solid.

:iagree:

First thought.

I'm gonna triple down on that fuel starvation mentioned earlier.

I went to home depot motorsports to look at some plywood for a new splitter design. I may compare prices with some other vendors.

Jesus. I think I had a stroke typing that like post.

Someone must have been floofing your horn.... :rofl2::rofl2:

40,000 miles coming up, so I picked up a few things:

- Motive Power Bleeder and Motul 5.1 for the second 20k mile brake flush

- Redline MT-85 for the transmission fluid change

- Redline 75w-90 for the differential fluid change

Should be fun :yum: