Me too
 

A couple of years ago I pulled up behind a conversion van at a stoplight. He starts backing up to clear the crosswalk, as someone in a wheelchair was waiting to cross the street. I'm laying on the horn, but he never hears me. I took my foot off the brake, so he pushed me back more than crashed into me. Damage was mostly a bent front license plate and frame. Guy says he never saw me (tall van vs. short roadster). Glad I thought to release the brakes after seeing your damage. Sorry you got nailed. It sucks:shakes head:

Reason for backing? :confused:

Your coolant isn't blue OE? I ask as I wonder if that contributed to the failure somehow. I have 93k on my 2010 and the area looks like new. :tiphat:

Coolant is blue,OE
That's one of the few Nissan recommendations that I always follow;)

Maybe no turning on the heat on, contributed to the failure.

Fixed my ethanol readings. I was dumb and gave the Zeitronix box 5V instead of 12V. the 5V output from the IC-7 is if you want to supply voltage directly to the sensor itself. HEB E-85 is as advertised!

He was in the turn lane and wanted to go straight.

I had my left hand on the horn while trying to shift into reverse but I missed the damn gate :shakes head:

Two for Tuesday

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I took the Z to Winding Road today to get the front sway bar bushings cleaned up and greased as well as have them clean up the endlinks. While it was there, they looked into a weird harmonic noise that I noticed. It doesn't look like any thing obvious. My control arms are fine, as well as the alignment and wheel-balance.

While I was walking to the coffee shop to do some work while I waited, I got to hear the car as it passed by on the street. Sounded good.

Just like the moron drivers here! The world would have ended if the clown made the left and U-turned then another left instead of doing parking lot **** in an intersection. :shakes head:

Did the same thing in my Juke when a semi turned left in front of me and almost cut the top off the Juke (and my head).

I moved the Z out of the garage today because it started raining. Consequently, I washed my Z today. :tiphat:

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I talked with Seb last week about doing a flex-fuel tune on my car. He already sent over a base 93 map so I can get my inspection taken care of. Flashed it today and all the monitors are on. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow as it needs a cold start to complete the drive cycle checks.

After that, I'll connect the ethanol sensor output to the BCM, and we'll start the flex tune!

Inspection passed, registration finally done.

Washed this dirty-bird … summer bug guts took a nasty toll on the magnetic black. Machine polishing it'll be …

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I thought Texas didn't require emissions testing, then I remembered you live in LA East... :rofl2:

Williamson and Travis county (As well as others in the state) require passing the OBD-II monitor tests. They've been like that for a while. You're allowed to have 1 test listed as "not ready" for 2008 and newer cars. There aren't any smog tests to my knowledge, but I'd like to have the car compliant for at least 47 states. I don't ever plan on living in California, Alaska, or Hawaii. It is honestly not hard to pass, the problem was getting someone to fix my software.

So I was dumb and wired up the wrong pin for flex-fuel. Thankfully the car knows how to not kill itself so I'll fix it later tonight.

I still blame Nissan for using G for green and GR for grey, even though I should have just triple-checked and not double-checked. -_-

Got my car back from the shop with new gallery gaskets, timing kit, as well as intake and valve cover gaskets since those were pulled to do that stuff.

How much did that run you if you don't mind me asking? My oil pressure is good, but I'm thinking about doing major maintenance at the same time while everything is a part. Oil gallery gaskets, upgraded oil pump, new thermostat, new radiator.

Turns out I had the wiring correct the whole time. The car was being dumb because I connected the battery and turned on the power with a good portion of the dash disconnected. ECU reset fixed it after doing some wiring troubleshooting with Seb.

Now I just have the CEL for the evap sensor, which is expected because it is out of the range specified by the FSM. No worries.

Snow?
 

There's snow in the forecast and I had enough time on my hands, so I put the winter shoes back on.

About $3000 for parts plus labor. My pressure was like 12 so I needed it done immediately.

Installed new Fast intentions exhaust and Fuel pressure gauge from CJ-Motorsports.

I gotcha. I’ve been holding off on doing mine as my pressure is from 25-30 at 180F temperatures. I’ve been very fortunate to not have to replace mine for 135k miles. Unless the gaskets were upgraded in the first 8200 miles (which is when I bought the car).

Let me know if you want me to dig up the invoice Kevin charged me. I did gallery gaskets, oil pump, oil pan, oil & ps cooler, thermostat, water pump, ps pump, coolant flush, engine mounts and few other items. Mostly labor except I think he sourced the thermostat for me.

yeah that would be great. That's about all of what I might be doing. I just need to decide if it is something i want to do myself or not. No rush though as the car is running fine.

We now have an ethanol percentage reading in Ecutek! Now for the fun!

Logged data. Tons of data

Cold start
Cold Idle
Warm idle
60mph cruise
85mph cruise (because Texas)
WOT pull to (almost) redline (the angle of my double dashboard tuning setup had me shift at 7.3K)

Wow that before 7AT fluid temp.?! :icon23:

I dont have a 7AT bud.

Edit: I see what you mean. I had to do that myself. Cut Evap pressure sensor, connect ethanol signal. Then Seb enables the Flex Fuel feature in the software.

So I did more runs yesterday, but I found a DTC for a misfire on cylinder 5. I did some basic troubleshooting:

- swapped the coil pack for cylinder 5 and 1 -> the problem stayed on 5
- checking the plug itself (looked ok with the diode intact), but swapped it anyway and it still stayed on 5. I doubted it was the plug as they've been replaced at 90K. (currently 135K)
- the logging shows zero knock on the pulls which is also good. zero timing correction too.

Given the car did pulls smoothly and the miss is only at idle, it probably just needs some fine tuning. I originally noticed the different idle when i swapped to the base SZ map so i thnk the car is fine. The car is running rich with the fat-a$$ injectors in it on 93 octane so we will see. I have no doubt Seb can figure it out and it will idle nice and smooth. Can't wait to get it dialed in to start the flex fuel part! I do have one question, has anyone done the idle-relearn before? I've never tried it.

Tried drilling out my sway bar bolt I broke back when I did my diff mounts.
Broke a screw extractor while it was stuck in the bolt. Ground that down. Now I have a super hard piece of metal to drill into.
Got some masonry carbide bits on order since my cobalt/tungsten carbide blend and cobalt bits didn't work and neither did any of my Dremel bits.

So, Seb mentioned the adapter cables for the ID injectors can be a point of interest. I disassembled the intake and manifold and tested the continuity on the adapter cable for cylinder 5. With a friend holding one side, I moved the cable around and sure enough, it would randomly lose continuity on one of the wires. We tested it multiple times, and it was intermittent enough to warrant an issue. I ordered some replacement adapters and some new spark plugs (already have access so why not?!)

Ordered Illuminated Sill Plates - Planned my third light install. Planned my Rear View mirror / Display install. Bought sound deading material and carbon fiber dash and center console pieces.

Last week just a little touch up paint and buff out. No nicks now. Set up iPhone for Sirrus Radio, cleaned underhood and modded exhaust sound a bit.

Made a new power steering high pressure hose to fix a major leak in the old line. The GTM supercharger kit relocates the steering pump so a custom line is needed.

-6AN stainless braided PTFE hose. Harbor Freight cable cutter worked great.

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Preventative maintenance is the key.

OEM cabin filter.
2 OEM engine air filters.
Oil change using Nissan 5W-30 ester engine oil, OEM oil filter and crush washer.
Installed new parking light bulbs for each headlamp which were OEM.

I also installed all three heater hoses which were OEM. The heater hose clamp for the right side where it goes on the coolant pipe on the back side of the head was kind of tough to get to. Remove your strut bar and engine cover for better access.

Now, for all you nervous freaking Nellys worrying about how to fill your cooling system, read on. The coolant used was the OEM blue coolant.

As I'm sure you guessed it I had to drain my coolant before installing my new heater hoses. Once I got them installed I closed the drain plug on the radiator which requires a Phillips screwdriver and then proceeded to remove the left hand side air filter housing. This is necessary to remove the radiator air bleed plug which requires a Phillips screwdriver to remove and tighten. Start by slowly filling your radiator and ensure the O - ring on the air bleed plug is lubricated with clean engine coolant. Once coolant starts coming out of the air bleed plug hole quickly put the air bleed plug in and tighten it. Then, continue to slowly fill the radiator until the coolant is above the top of the upper radiator hose. Once that is done put the radiator cap on and check the level in your plastic reservoir. Add as necessary.

Now start your car leaving the plastic reservoir cap off and let the car get up to operating temperature. Turn the heat on and make sure the T - stat opens up by feeling your lower hose. Once this happens. Check and correct the coolant level in the plastic reservoir and put the cap on. Road test the vehicle a few miles and then return to the shop. Check and correct the fluid in your plastic reservoir. You're done.

What was the reason for changing out the hoses to the heater core? Are those known to break down over time?


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In between the two heater hoses on the passenger side is a plastic tube which is a restrictor. Mine started to crack. Once I got the heater hoses off I gave them a few good twist and the plastic piece broke.

Installed longtubes. Without removing the coolant tube or steering shaft. Because I’m a masochist I guess. Or maybe because I didn’t read that you’re “supposed” to do that until after I finished. :ugh2:

Which LTH's did you install? And how long did it take you?