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370Z oil cooler necessary?

I guess this is where my quote gets inserted, 'Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto parts on their cars!'

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Old 08-25-2016, 08:33 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I guess this is where my quote gets inserted, 'Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto parts on their cars!'
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:06 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing.

Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled?
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:15 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by flyfish View Post
Opinions on the AAM water based oil cooler? It looks like it uses the 150 degree Mishimoto housing.

Assume I would not put the Mishimoto part on based on everything I have read. Water or air cooled?
The AAM kit concerns me since it doesn't have a thermostatic sandwich plate. Also, the factory oil to water cooler on 2012+ Zs is a band aid, so I'm not sure why theirs would be any different.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:20 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Water or air cooled?
Air. No need for any discussion.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:27 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks, Z1 for me.
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:42 AM   #51 (permalink)
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So, just curious, I went to some other forms to see what their discussions were about as far as oil temp (bmw, corvette, Porsche, etc), and normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees.

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Old 09-04-2016, 12:45 PM   #52 (permalink)
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... normal seems to be anywhere from 220-260. Where did the assessment of 250 or so being abnormal come from? Driving up the mountains the other day I saw 245 max, and in town can vary between 210 and 230 typically, on an average day at 85 degrees.
Most synthetic oils still do an adequate (not great, but good enough) job of lubricating up to 300F. But the engine itself will not handle temps that high - pre-ignition becomes a problem at elevated temps, plus aluminum engines don't handle high temps very well. The "250 or so" figure is based on "normal" operating temps, where the nannies start to kick in, how important driver thinks oil temp is, etc.
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:49 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I added a 25 row Setrab Oil Cooler and a Thermostatic Plate to my system and it cured my overheating problems. Hell I even added the Magical Radiator cap that runs a slightly higher pressure. IMO they are a needed addition unless you live somewhere very cold. I'm in the Portland area and the Z was still getting hot!

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Old 09-05-2016, 12:47 PM   #54 (permalink)
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If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.
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Old 09-05-2016, 12:49 PM   #55 (permalink)
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If you have a 2012 and up Z with the factory oil stabilizer the best kit is from Fast Intentions. It has everything you need to remove the factory unit and install a Setrab with an thermostatic plate.
Really! I wonder if they will just sell me a delete kit for the OEM cooler. I'll have to keep them in mind.

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Old 09-05-2016, 11:44 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I have a '12 and want to take off the factory sandwich plate. So quick question to those who've done the by pass. I'm assuming you connect 12 and 13 as shown below. I have not gone underneath to look at it specifically so how is it connected? I've searched but could not find anything specifically showing how it is done for '12+ models.

[IMG]oil cooler by Raf, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:42 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter.
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:06 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Yes, it is 12 and 13 per your diagram. You will need the All-thread piece that threads into the block so you can attach your thermostatic housing. It is the piece that is used on the 2009-2011 engines to attach the oil filter.
Thanks Spooler. Doesn't the Mocal thermostatic plate come with that piece already? Also how is 12 and 13 connected i.e. hose length and the required fittings?
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:53 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Thanks Spooler. Doesn't the Mocal thermostatic plate come with that piece already? Also how is 12 and 13 connected i.e. hose length and the required fittings?
The FI kit does. I am not sure if it does if you just get the Mocal thermostatic plate. I am also not sure of the length of hose. I left those 2 pieces on my old car that got totaled and just took off the plate, lines, and cooler.
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Last edited by Spooler; 09-06-2016 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeBabar View Post
A lot if it is bull. If you do not race or track, there is no need for an oil cooler. I don't race or track. On the highway, I do take a 500 mile week end trip almost every week, I consistently drive at 75-80 with occasional bursts up to 115 and after my trips, the average shows I drove between 70-80 mph and the oil never crosses over 220, generally remains at 200 or below.

My friend has 80k on his 2013 Z and he drives similarly.

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