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looks like you have to remove the upper arm to adjust camber on the SPL units. am i wrong?
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Loosen up 2 set-screws per side, turn nut on back to adjust both camber and caster.
Have seen set-ups close to this before. Just make sure you anti-sieze on all the set-screws and the heim joint threads.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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They should have made the front part of the bolt flat so you can add a locking nut there. Last edited by VDC_OFF; 02-20-2013 at 02:15 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 70
Posts: 35,577
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
Rep Power: 2684440 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
![]() Going from track to street setting. All you need to do is loosen the set-screws. Turn the adjusting piece on each side of the arm, a set number of turns. Also when you change the camber settings. The toe setting WILL change too. No matter who's arms you use.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Houston (Pearland)
Age: 46
Posts: 1,205
Drives: 2011 370Z M6
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Austin
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When we were doing the alignment on my car Friday, the mechanic just loved it. All he had to do was turn the wrench on the proper areas and watch his computer screen. Way too easy.
Last edited by nismo09; 02-23-2013 at 08:18 PM. |
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