Sooooo H&R spacers, anyone messed with them?

MyKindaGuise · 11-26-2012, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTLAW

OMG! , Did you really just say Ichiba and H&R are the same??

H&R made in Germany! Ichiba is made in China!!! I would never put anything on my car made in China.

I have DRM H&R 20MM all around smooth as butter!

Lolllllllll

That makes no difference most companies after patents run out sell their complete designs to Chinese manufacturers. Same thing at a much lower cost.

I'm using project kics and recommend them. The price is kinda steep but well worth it for a strong spacer.

dmhenderson · 11-26-2012, 09:32 AM

Yeah I think I'm probably going to do DRM H&R 20mm spacers all the way around based upon the "look" I'm going for.

Cristobal09 · 11-26-2012, 09:59 AM

20mm all around makes it look great. Especially after you lower it.

GTLAW · 11-26-2012, 10:11 AM

Dude, over at the G forms, people have had lots of issues with Ichiba! I would not trust it!

Nothing like your wheel breaking off at 80Mph!

4r3s · 11-26-2012, 10:54 AM

Personally I went with the stud replacement option. I bought mine from z1 and the studs were more stout than the oem studs. the drm route adds to many points for possible failure for my likings.

MyKindaGuise · 11-26-2012, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmhenderson

Yeah I think I'm probably going to do DRM H&R 20mm spacers all the way around based upon the "look" I'm going for.

What look will you be going for?

What camber are you going to run? Im running -2.5 on both sides and I need bigger spacers IMO. If youre going to be cambered a bit more youll want 20/25mm front 25/30mmrear.

ill post pics in a minute. Im running 20/25.

G37sHKS · 11-26-2012, 11:25 AM

H&R spacers ftw!

dmhenderson · 11-26-2012, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristobal09

20mm all around makes it look great. Especially after you lower it.

I don't know that I want to lower it tbh.

GTLAW · 11-26-2012, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4r3s

Personally I went with the stud replacement option. I bought mine from z1 and the studs were more stout than the oem studs. the drm route adds to many points for possible failure for my likings.

I know people who ran H&R DRM for years and year with tons of miles no issues.

I would not want to run aftermarket studs, I be to afraid they break off.

The H&R DRM the studs coming off the spacer are very well done!

Cristobal09 · 11-26-2012, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTLAW

I know people who ran H&R DRM for years and year with tons of miles no issues.

I would not want to run aftermarket studs, I be to afraid they break off.

exactly, the oem studs are of much higher quality.

I have bolt on spacers all around and no issues.

4r3s · 11-26-2012, 01:17 PM

drm is using aftermarket studs....the stock studs are used to bolt down the spacer that has the aftermarket studs built into it. You're still bolting the wheel down onto an aftermarket stud. You've effectively doubled the number of points for a moment which means more possible points of failure.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=HRTRAKSP01
DRS® Series
DRS Series spacers fit between the wheel and hub, and require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones (studs are included).

DRM® Series
DRM Series spacers bolt to the hub with existing wheel studs and special nuts (included). Wheel is bolted to new DRM wheel studs.

dmhenderson · 11-26-2012, 01:24 PM

I don't think I'm going to do the camber thing. I'm just going to push the wheelbase out a bit for that sleek/flush look.

dmhenderson · 11-26-2012, 01:25 PM

(I don't understand the camber thing and think it looks silly. I'm sure it has a function but it's probably not something I would ever take advantage of and I'm sure it's hell on your tires)

VDC_OFF · 11-26-2012, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmhenderson

I don't know that I want to lower it tbh.

370z's must be lowered, even if its just springs. Dont argue just do it.

Cristobal09 · 11-26-2012, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmhenderson

(I don't understand the camber thing and think it looks silly. I'm sure it has a function but it's probably not something I would ever take advantage of and I'm sure it's hell on your tires)

Unless you lower your vehicle and get aftermarket camber arms you cant really modify the camber that much (if at all, somebody correct me if im wrong). The camber arms are mainly for lowered cars who end up with extreme negative camber and need to get it straightened up a bit.

11-26-2012, 09:32 AM	#17 (permalink)
dmhenderson A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 5,930 Drives: AWD TT 370z Rep Power: 26	Yeah I think I'm probably going to do DRM H&R 20mm spacers all the way around based upon the "look" I'm going for. Cristobal09 likes this. __________________

11-26-2012, 09:59 AM	#18 (permalink)
Cristobal09 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NOVA Posts: 1,430 Drives: 22 ZL1 & Explorer ST Rep Power: 3371	20mm all around makes it look great. Especially after you lower it. __________________ 2022 Camaro ZL1 2021 Explorer ST

11-26-2012, 10:11 AM	#19 (permalink)
GTLAW Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Columbia MD Posts: 373 Drives: Black ??? Rep Power: 14	Dude, over at the G forms, people have had lots of issues with Ichiba! I would not trust it! Nothing like your wheel breaking off at 80Mph! __________________ 2013 6MT IPL GrSh\|V-Leds\|OSRAM \| SWIFT \| H&R \| CUSCO \| HKS \| 3M \|

11-26-2012, 11:25 AM	#22 (permalink)
G37sHKS A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dubai Posts: 1,183 Drives: 09 G37S Coupe 7AT Rep Power: 20	H&R spacers ftw! wheee! likes this. __________________ G37 BUILD UNDER CONSTRUCTION

11-26-2012, 01:24 PM	#27 (permalink)
dmhenderson A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 5,930 Drives: AWD TT 370z Rep Power: 26	I don't think I'm going to do the camber thing. I'm just going to push the wheelbase out a bit for that sleek/flush look. __________________

11-26-2012, 10:54 AM	#20 (permalink)
4r3s A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MD Posts: 2,077 Drives: Touring 370z Rep Power: 24	Personally I went with the stud replacement option. I bought mine from z1 and the studs were more stout than the oem studs. the drm route adds to many points for possible failure for my likings.

11-26-2012, 01:17 PM	#26 (permalink)
4r3s A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MD Posts: 2,077 Drives: Touring 370z Rep Power: 24	drm is using aftermarket studs....the stock studs are used to bolt down the spacer that has the aftermarket studs built into it. You're still bolting the wheel down onto an aftermarket stud. You've effectively doubled the number of points for a moment which means more possible points of failure. http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=HRTRAKSP01 DRS® Series DRS Series spacers fit between the wheel and hub, and require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones (studs are included). DRM® Series DRM Series spacers bolt to the hub with existing wheel studs and special nuts (included). Wheel is bolted to new DRM wheel studs.

11-26-2012, 01:25 PM	#28 (permalink)
dmhenderson A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 5,930 Drives: AWD TT 370z Rep Power: 26	(I don't understand the camber thing and think it looks silly. I'm sure it has a function but it's probably not something I would ever take advantage of and I'm sure it's hell on your tires) __________________

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