Sooooo H&R spacers, anyone messed with them?

dmhenderson · 11-26-2012, 01:29 PM

We'll see. I don't see it happening though. Negotiating speed bumps with 18" cans worries me.

Cristobal09 · 11-26-2012, 01:31 PM

Im lowered on swifts, I scrape everywhere.

dmhenderson · 11-26-2012, 01:34 PM

Yeah I think I'll just leave it (for now)

MyKindaGuise · 11-26-2012, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristobal09

Unless you lower your vehicle and get aftermarket camber arms you cant really modify the camber that much (if at all, somebody correct me if im wrong). The camber arms are mainly for lowered cars who end up with extreme negative camber and need to get it straightened up a bit.

Camber arms help to keep your alignment in spec and can also give you ridiculous negative camber for guys looks for that slammed look.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmhenderson

(I don't understand the camber thing and think it looks silly. I'm sure it has a function but it's probably not something I would ever take advantage of and I'm sure it's hell on your tires)

Well what I was refering to with a -2.5 camber that is way different from what your talking about. If you look at my earlier pic of my rear you can see a slight slant on my wheel. But even lowering the car on springs will give you more than normal negative camber. Inspec is -1.3 to -2.7.

MyKindaGuise · 11-26-2012, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmhenderson

We'll see. I don't see it happening though. Negotiating speed bumps with 18" cans worries me.

Im dropped 1.5" all around and have no problem in PA #1 state for worst roads

I rarely scrape and I daily my car. Only thing I scrape is my front bumper on that stupid plastic lip. I cut that back though by about a half inch and am fine now.

Cristobal09 · 11-26-2012, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyKindaGuise

I cut that back though by about a half inch and am fine now.

Hmmmm.....thats a pretty good idea!! Im going to try that.

MyKindaGuise · 11-26-2012, 01:56 PM

Just use something really sharp to make it a clean cut. I used a smith and wesson military knife. It was like cutting through butter haha.

I attached a pic of how it looks with it cut back

sparky · 11-26-2012, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4r3s

drm is using aftermarket studs....the stock studs are used to bolt down the spacer that has the aftermarket studs built into it. You're still bolting the wheel down onto an aftermarket stud. You've effectively doubled the number of points for a moment which means more possible points of failure.

STILLEN : H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers
DRS® Series
DRS Series spacers fit between the wheel and hub, and require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones (studs are included).

DRM® Series
DRM Series spacers bolt to the hub with existing wheel studs and special nuts (included). Wheel is bolted to new DRM wheel studs.

This is the correct way to think about this. I'm not clear on the posts here about quality of studs? On what basis are people saying this? Do the oem studs have a higher shear strength or something? Does someone have proof or test results?

It's a contradiction to say you're using DRM to keep the oem studs and then bolt the wheels to aftermarket studs. I hardly doubt that H&R is selling wheel spacers with studs of inferior quality or are somehow weaker than stock.

4r3s · 11-27-2012, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky

This is the correct way to think about this. I'm not clear on the posts here about quality of studs? On what basis are people saying this? Do the oem studs have a higher shear strength or something? Does someone have proof or test results?

It's a contradiction to say you're using DRM to keep the oem studs and then bolt the wheels to aftermarket studs. I hardly doubt that H&R is selling wheel spacers with studs of inferior quality or are somehow weaker than stock.

Thanks for the reply, I thought I was missing something here when everyone ignored that post and went on their merry way.

MyKindaGuise · 11-27-2012, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky

This is the correct way to think about this. I'm not clear on the posts here about quality of studs? On what basis are people saying this? Do the oem studs have a higher shear strength or something? Does someone have proof or test results?

It's a contradiction to say you're using DRM to keep the oem studs and then bolt the wheels to aftermarket studs. I hardly doubt that H&R is selling wheel spacers with studs of inferior quality or are somehow weaker than stock.

Thats not at all what some of us were saying..That was only like 1 or 2 people. And that kind of response can be easily turned around... Does someone have proof or test results that what was said isnt true?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4r3s

Thanks for the reply, I thought I was missing something here when everyone ignored that post and went on their merry way.

I think the majority of us heard and took what you read to heart. No one was ignoring your post on the internet

You are correct though that it is doubling the points of possible breakages. I think most of us use DRMs just for ease of install. Personally im only using them until I get wheels with crazier offsets. I can also say that as someone who gets sideways regularly and has done 130mph+(on closed course) the DRMs have held up and have no cracks or anything and all lugs are still torqued just fine.

Cristobal09 · 11-27-2012, 10:39 AM

for me, when I took off my old DRS studs off in the front, I stripped 3 of them. I didnt strip the oem ones when I took them off putting the H&R studs on. The oem ones went back on just fine. That was my experience with them at least.

So to answer the original question, I have both ichiba (v2) and H&R (DRM) spacers installed. I think they look great and so far havent had any issues with them.

So I take back me saying they were of "lower quality" in general (besides those 3 the rest were fine), but at least in my experience, I felt the oem studs were stronger. Am I saying the aftermarket ones are crap? No, most likely I just fvcked up taking them out.

4r3s · 11-27-2012, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyKindaGuise

No one was ignoring your post on the internet

Hey I'm on the internet you should pay attention to me

point taken...I thought there was something that I was missing, it was more for my own personal edification. I'm an engineer so I like to understand how things work and if I was wrong I'd rather learn why then just have no response.

4r3s · 11-27-2012, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristobal09

for me, when I took off my old DRS studs off in the front, I stripped 3 of them. I didnt strip the oem ones when I took them off putting the H&R studs on. The oem ones went back on just fine. That was my experience with them at least.

So to answer the original question, I have both ichiba (v2) and H&R (DRM) spacers installed. I think they look great and so far havent had any issues with them.

So I take back me saying they were of "lower quality" in general (besides those 3 the rest were fine), but at least in my experience, I felt the oem studs were stronger. Am I saying the aftermarket ones are crap? No, most likely I just fvcked up taking them out.

I would guess the ones that stripped were torqued too tight when originally installed.

Cristobal09 · 11-27-2012, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4r3s

I would guess the ones that stripped were torqued too tight when originally installed.

Perhaps, I was having an issue of the car pulling to the left after I installed the DRS, so like I said, it was most likely me fvcking up.

I put the ichiba v2 on the front and they fit like a glove, the studs looked almost identical essentially to the oem ones.

MyKindaGuise · 11-27-2012, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4r3s

Hey I'm on the internet you should pay attention to me

mmmmmmyeahhhhh im gonna require all caps for that to happen

11-26-2012, 01:29 PM	#31 (permalink)
dmhenderson A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 5,930 Drives: AWD TT 370z Rep Power: 28	We'll see. I don't see it happening though. Negotiating speed bumps with 18" cans worries me. __________________

11-26-2012, 01:31 PM	#32 (permalink)
Cristobal09 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NOVA Posts: 1,430 Drives: 22 ZL1 & Explorer ST Rep Power: 3373	Im lowered on swifts, I scrape everywhere. __________________ 2022 Camaro ZL1 2021 Explorer ST

11-26-2012, 01:34 PM	#33 (permalink)
dmhenderson A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 5,930 Drives: AWD TT 370z Rep Power: 28	Yeah I think I'll just leave it (for now) __________________

11-27-2012, 10:39 AM	#41 (permalink)
Cristobal09 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: NOVA Posts: 1,430 Drives: 22 ZL1 & Explorer ST Rep Power: 3373	for me, when I took off my old DRS studs off in the front, I stripped 3 of them. I didnt strip the oem ones when I took them off putting the H&R studs on. The oem ones went back on just fine. That was my experience with them at least. So to answer the original question, I have both ichiba (v2) and H&R (DRM) spacers installed. I think they look great and so far havent had any issues with them. So I take back me saying they were of "lower quality" in general (besides those 3 the rest were fine), but at least in my experience, I felt the oem studs were stronger. Am I saying the aftermarket ones are crap? No, most likely I just fvcked up taking them out. __________________ 2022 Camaro ZL1 2021 Explorer ST Last edited by Cristobal09; 11-27-2012 at 10:42 AM.

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