gomer_110

Do you have any suggestions for spring rates? I am running motion control non-remote 2 ways with 12kg front and 10kg rear(stock location). Feels really soft to me and i get a lot of body movement. Rear seems pretty loose as well, i removed my rear sway and have 1/16th toe total. I plan on upgrading to the new tomei 1.5 lsd. In my current setup i overpower the sports oem lsd all the time on tight corners.

Thanks again.
Ryan

Having a hell of a time finding suspension settings to run the nismo 19x10.5 et23 wheels with 285 tires square. I found stuff of people using the rims but with smaller tires and no camber angles listed. I plan on running this setup in autox for stu class. Thanks

What was the cost of parts and install for clutch, CSC and flywheel upgrade, if you don't mind me asking?

Hi I have seen ya putting ur sway bars from eibach . And my question is "Are the nismo sway bars not good enough or you are looking at the better handling with eibach?" I think u did front and rear right. I went to a track race a couple weeks ago(my first time). wat happened to me was my nismo was stripping because I was on high speed then brake to make a hard corner. My rear wheels spin twice and I think it's partly cause of my sway bars. I am here to learn so your information would be super helpful. Thanks

Hi, just wanted to say hi. I'm in BG, if you're ever in the area hit me up or if there are any events in Toledo to gather. Thanks.

1st: More grip. 2nd: This is an extremely common size so hopefully I won't have to worry about hoosier discontinuing this size like they did with the 295/40-18 3rd: I have 1-2 very good autoxers in...

Carbotech XP10 up front and XP8 in the rear. Just changed mine and did my first autox with them. Huge improvement in braking although they are partially responsible for me cording a month old set of...

interior key fob sensor? just speculation but I think that was the approximate location of it.

While I completely agree with your frustration, I have to say that the $200/hr is almost certainly more than just a labor rate. Just a quick search of the internets for used dynos show prices from...

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

It's only the chassis damper that causes problems. I just removed mine and never looked back. Can't say I even felt a difference with the damper removed.

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

It's the internal vanes that determine the proper installation direction. The direction of the slots on the rotor surfaces is irrelevant.

If I remember right, the resonator piece is removed. It's been a year since I installed mine so you better check your install instructions just to make sure.

limp mode is actually up around 270 F. While the ECU does pull some timing before that, it's not until you get up to 270ish that you hit limp mode.

The only thing to be careful of is NOT to use impact tools while doing this. Our O2 sensors are very fragile with regards to the vibration of air tools and will break (internally) as a result. Beyond...

The only thing to be careful of is NOT to use impact tools while doing this. Our O2 sensors are very fragile with regards to the vibration of air tools and will break (internally) as a result. Beyond...

limp mode is actually up around 270 F. While the ECU does pull some timing before that, it's not until you get up to 270ish that you hit limp mode.