The fuel pump part is good to go. I'll hook up the Exa oil pump later and take pics to confirm.

YzGyz

Black ring = battery neg
Red ring = battery pos

red/blue crimp = Exa red harness
black/blue crimp = Exa black harness

yellow = nothing

I got it right?

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psxy7j6r0s.jpg
Did I get an extra "add a fuse" wire set? I have another set but without the fuse box plug in part.

YzGyz

That is correct.

The other harness is for your pump, as a voltage booster.

What he said

I just skimmed the install manual again. I don't see where or what I'm to do with the other wire harness. I'm lost. Can someone walk this helpless guy through the other harness set installation process?

Shasha a suggestion, the manual is nice but it could page numbers would be nice. I keep flipping the book from one page to the other looking at picture as reference points because the pages are not numbered.

YzGyz

Red ring goes to positive battery. Black goes to negative. Yellow stay unconnected and the other two splice into the factory line to the pump. If I recall its the pink wire on the harness. I can't remember off the top of my head which color goes to the pump side and which goes to the ECU harness side. Locate the relay in the battery box same as the Exa pump and run the two long wires back to the fuel pump.

There was a rough sketch in the other BP thread showing how to do it.

It's post 733 on the Booosted Performance Round 2 List thread

Thanks Wick.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psru2nco2j.jpg

You wire the fuel pump like this.

I also recently received an E-mail from Seb Specialty Z. He said my clutch kit is working correctly, however he will be sending my the CSC from the Hi-5 kit. He states that the CSC will extend further and give a better clutch feel. Can't wait to get the car back together.

YzGyz

I received my box from Seb. Time to get back to work!!

YzGyz

:rofl2:I got $10 that it's the exact same one I got from them and then sent back once we found out he sent me a ****** up clutch disc. He withheld my refund until I sent back the unused new slave, and then withheld the refund anyway.

:shakes head:

My clutch kit is reinstalled for the 2nd time. The transmission is backup. I don't know why but I had a heck of a time getting the darn transmission support plate to line up and bolt in right. I spent a good 40 minutes on it. GRR!!!!

Anyhoo, I finished up the fuel pump wiring. Too bad I didn't think of tapping the harness from my amp power distributor instead of from the battery itself. The amp were right behind the passenger seat! DOH!! I ran the booster wires along side my amp wire to keep it nice and tidy. As I was removing the plastic trim to run the wires, some of the clips stuck to the car. I used the old fork trick to get them out without damaging them. Once the plastic push clips were removed, I reinstalled them into the plastic trim so they would snap right back in place.

I Also got the turbo manifold in place. I was tired from fighting the stupid transmission and had to stop. Tomorrow will be a good day!

Here are the fuel pump booster wires push through the rubber boot under the hood, near the fuse box.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psefeuvctp.jpg

This is a messy shot of the booster wires under the dash and inside the passenger kick panel.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psttizazrr.jpg

These panels are just clipped in place. You just pull them off and run the wires with the rest of the OEM wires.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psdbpaxdux.jpg

This is the driver side plastic panel near the fuel pump access area. This is where some of the white clips stay lodged in the car side and I had to use the fork trick to take them out.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psbqzx1yab.jpg
I used a fork to pry the white clip off. This minimizes damage to the clip.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psj3ftwqas.jpg

This is where the booster wires tap into the OEM wires. After I took this pic, I tucked the wires back into the protective sleeve and then taped it up. I used 1 zip ties on both of the booster wires to secure it to the wire sleeve. This was to help prevent the wires from excessive movement and breaking apart.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps6sog4g1k.jpg

YzGyz

Coming along :tup:

Things are moving along nicely until I hit a snag. The pipe connecting to the turbo sits extremely low.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvak8koju.jpg

As of now, all I have left to do is:
-install and connect all of the rubber hoses
-install the new injectors and sparks
-upload base map
-put car interior back together
-install EBC (I will wait for Jwick to help on this)

Ninja edit: Also need to mount the Intercooler

YzGyz

YzGyz's turn!
 

IC piping isn't in correctly and the turbo is not clocked properly. I'm thinking the 90 coupler on the end of that pipe to the left is not seated far enough or properly and looking towards the engine bay the compressor outlet needs to be clocked 10-15 degs clockwise

Edit - forgot you have the new turbo cover. Disregard my comment. I'd have to see it in person to see if I had any solution

You working Friday?

You posted as I was posting.. Had to delete.

Yes.. I'm working Friday..

YzGyz

Damn Friday is my day off

Thien, I got your email...and thought it would be easier to post here....

The 90 degree coupler that goes between the turbo and the first piece of pipe needs to have the larger end (turbo end) cut back about 1.25” with a sharp utility knife.

I made a quick instruction this morning (this is something I should have done to the coupler before sending it out, so my appologies):

Mark coupler with some tape like so, about 1.25” back from the edge. Note that the tape is at a bit of an angle, and not square to the OEM edge….that is how you need to cut it:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps26dfylwl.jpg

Cut:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...pszixuckhd.jpg

On the compressor cover, as you can see you can cut back a bit more than 1.25” as well. The compressor cover in your picture also needs to be turned a bit more counted clock wise. This is why the coupler had to be cut at a slight angle. I positioned the compressor cover to reflect the angle at which it should sit, yet the outlet of the coupler is still “parallel” to what would be the ground:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psmrjhpv3b.jpg

I also talked to my filter supplier, and they have not received the filters. I do have a note on my desk as a daily reminder that you are still missing the second (spare) air filter....don't worry, I did not forget:)

I cut the 90 ell and fixed the super low hanging charge pipe. It is still hanging a lot lower than I would like it to be. I will test it once I am able to start the car and drive over a 2x4 a few times while looking at the clearance.

The FMIC was a booger to mount. I had tried to drill it freehand and but the new holes overlapped the old holes partially. I botched that part up so I got mad and bought a drill press and unibit. I clamped her down with 2 C clamps and drilled her nice and clean.

The OEM metal part that sits above the FMIC was a lot weaker with the crashbar and brackets removed. My brother and I hunted around HD and found some beefy metal shelf hangers and cut them up into a "L" and drilled holes matching the FMIC. Now the OEM metal is nice and supported.

I also got the vacuum hoses ran and secured snugly. Everything up installed.

I reconnect the battery and plug in my UpRev cable. Then I hit a snag! My Base Map wont load. I get errors. I give my buddy Jwick a text and he walks me through it step by step. Update the turner = check, open Osiris + check, press start button 2x = check, wait as Osiris finds ECU = check, ECU found = check,

Click "load" and load base map into UpRev = fail!! missing files.. GRR!!!!!!

So I will take Jwick'd advice and call UpRev tomorrow and see what happens. I was so hoping I would be able to drive to work in my car.

Anyhoo, it was and still late out so no pic of everything. I will try and do that tomorrow.

YzGyz

You'll get there bud and it'll be well worth it:tup:

Researching which Wideband to buy. Man, they are kinda expensive.

On another note,The Turbosmart Eboost street comes with a fuse and fuse holder. I take it you can just tap into something and it's good to power the EBC?

YzGyz

Innovate LC

I went with the AEM AFR wideband, but I do love the Innovate ones :)

I'm thinking of the Innovative all in one. The only problem is that it's white.. My car is black and red.

Picture time!

Fuel rails with 3 new injectors in:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psd0fxgdow.jpg

Old plugs vs new plugs. These plugs have 39,9xx miles on them. They are dirty!! I didn't have a properly fitting spark plug socket so I just use a regular deep socket. Once they are twisted out all the way loose, I use the electrical top part that sits on top of the plug to pull the spark out. To put the new one back in, I stuck the new plug to the electrical top partially then put it in the hole and twisted her a few round and pulled the top part off. The spark will be partially threaded and will stay in. You will want to unscrew her then screw her back in, feeling it catch thread correctly before you snug her down.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psai02mva3.jpg

Here is a everything mounted and ready for start up.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psxozbvmdo.jpg

This is a underside pic of the turbo kit all wrapped and ready to go.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psflyluurj.jpg

Edit: I forgot to add this picture of a bolt that secures the cars underside shrouding. This bolt was impeding the down-pipe from lining up with the turbo. The bolt had to be ground down all most all the way down to the nut.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscugzc7x2.jpg

YzGyz

Here area few profile pictures of how low the pipe coming out of the turbo sits. These pictures were taken at a height level to the underside of the car.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psknnb4hpo.jpg

This picture was taken a little further back so you can use the unloaded shocks and rotors as reference (picture taken level with car underside).
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psen2zkuyx.jpg

This is a picture to show the 2 new brackets my brother and I made to support the OEM black metal piece above the intercooler.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psouqips4d.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psmq11y1qr.jpg

The brackets started there lives as shelf hanger brackets. I'm sure you could go into the building material area and find some nice "L" brackets that would work. I just happen to see and bought these for $8 each I think.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pstg0bhl8f.jpg

I had trouble mounting the FMIC as the new holes that I needed to drill overlap the old holes a little. I tried to drill freehand with the bit that came with the kit to no avail. I got frustrated and bought some new tools, drill press, unibit and clamps to hold things still and I drilled (unibit and clamps from Harbor F. They work well enough for super cheap. Just back off when the get hot and use some water or something to help cool them off.)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pswtm1zuvb.jpg

Everything was installed, checked and secured (except the inlet pot on the scavenger pump since I need to prime it). All fluids are in, lines bleed the best I could for now. I connect my negative battery and things power up. I grab and plug in the UpRev cable and try to install the basemap Sasha sent me. FAIL!! I text Jwick and he walks me though the whole thing (thanks buddy), and still a no go. I check for any UpRev updates and I find some. I update the cable and still no go. I get the same screen. GRRR!!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pslh91qdct.jpg

So I called UpRev about 35 minutes ago but no answer. I'll try again in 10 minutes or so. They might be at lunch so let the man/lady eat.

YzGyz

That pipe is sitting really low dont you think

Yeah that's how mine is sitting to...I just ordered a 45 degree angle coupler for that, so that should fix the issue. And did you have to send Sasha your part number first?

I went and fiddled with the pipe a little more before I went to work. She is up as much as she can be. I think maybe 5/8'' from touching the tranmission. I also rigged up a tube to wrap the transmission lines in the area. My shoulders were killing me!

09 370z, what part number? Are you talking about the ECU number? I sent that off a long time ago.

Yeah that's what I meant, couldn't remember lol

I plugged in the Uprev cable into my car and got the ecu # when I first received my turbo kit. Sasha replied the next day with the base map file.

YzGyz

Innovative Wideband purchased.

YzGyz

Wideband made it home!!

I botched my trans install and smudged my clutch plate. I need a new one now. Doh!!! Delay delay delay. BIG TIME MY FAULT this time. Ehh, I'm going ot go drink it up at doller day at the race track. $1 beers all evening long!

YzGyz

Alcohol is one hell of a smoother:tup:

Is that why it won't start?

Yeah, I smooshed the clutch plate and it don't turn right anymore. I e-mailed Seb and waiting for a reply on a replacement. I also asked of he sells the cmc rebuild kit. I just want to cover the possibility of my new cmc failing. It's OK I guess.

YzGyz

I might finally be regretting having tackling my clutch install myself. It's freeking killing me! I finally get the new 6 puck clutch plate from Specialty Z yesturday. I had to work last night so I made plans to install it today. I come home from a 12hr shift, get cleaned up, and take a 2 hr nap. I proceed to install the clutch plate when I decide to take a small break. I see email notice on my phone and it's Seb telling me to hold off on the install. He need to check if the smaller diameter CSC needs an adapter plate to work correctly. At this point, if crossing my fingers and hoping I don't need no friggin adapter plate! An hour passes and E-mail arrives. Seb tells me I need an adapter plate.. WTF!!! I had already installed the damn thing a week ago with the smaller CSC, and the install somehow botched the clutch plate. I order a new one and a week later, I get it (which is fine I guess.. I don';t expect it to be over-nighted). The day I try to install the damn thing, i'm told I can;t because I'm missing hardware!! GRRR!!! NOT A HAPPY CAMPER RIGHT NOW!! All that damn time and now all in a sudden, "wait, let me check...ohh your missing something." Granted they are responding and trying to keep things moving but it sucks. My car has been in hover mode for over a month now. @ weeks of it was due to the transmission with the sending the clutch back to SpecialtyZ and then getting it back, getting a new clutch plate and now I have to WAIT SOME MORE!.. I can only imagine how LIT-UP I would be if I had installed it and then something malfunctions. Anyhoo, lets see what happens. Maybe they will send me some $$ back into my account or something. SO P.O. right now but I somehow think/wishing they will make thing right and I will have my car running again. FU*K!!!

YzGyz

Sucks bro

Specialty Z's long distance customer service needs some serious work :icon14:

Or they should stop shipping that product as it appears it's not just a bolt in application.