Did you ask Ron his opinion of Specialty Z? :rofl2:

Yes I did. He told me about your install. He said that my set was different form yours so he was not sure on functionality. He also told me that he know the people that make this clutch and flywheel personally. He or should I say they are cool guys. I bought us some pizza for lunch to eat as I waited during my MM install.

Ron told me to get my car up as high as possible to do drop transmission. He told me that me it's just easier with more headroom. He suggest the tall jack stands. I told him I only have the regular ones. He cringed.. lol. I hope the install is not too bad.

YzGyz

I think we ended up with the same clutch. The busted one was the full face one.

What I don't quite understand is how come the ones with less surface area is rated for higher hp/tq. I would think more surface area = more contact and friction = being able to handle more load. Anyhoo, IF we have the same type, I sure hope they last a good long time.

YzGyz

My doorbell just rang and I got another piece of the puzzle. The oil pump is here. I thought this thing was a lot bigger from the pics posted by other people but nope. It's about the size of a large sport drink bottle.

The pump came in a nice little package. Everything was put stuffed in a box, inside a sealed foam bag with packing peanuts around the bag. I was impressed that the pump was shipped inside a completely air tight and sealed foam bag. Who would of thought a piece of metal would be so well packaged. I guess that's the price for a $400 pump (I think).

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps182e0ced.jpg

I put a lip balm stick on the pump for size reference.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psb7899e93.jpg

YzGyz

Mine didn't come that way

That's what happen when your a self volunteering guinnea pig. At least you have big balls. Lol I really don't see packages like this often. They are usually just a baggy with a folded over opening, maybe a piece of tape to hold it closed.

YzGyz

Somebody had to be the first. As I understand it there is another G or 2 in this round of kits

There will be at least one more G :icon17:

On the heat wrap....the stuff I use is ceramic, and as mentioned here, rated to 2,000 deg F. Same with the turbo blanket.

Me thinks I will.just get the blanky from you. I will buy 100' the titanium off the net.

YzGyz

Here is a small update. I started working on the trans yesturday after getting home from work. It's hard work to get the trans down. I'm still working on dropping it but I'm close. I have everything out of the way, I just need to undo the top bolt and she drops. There is hardly any space. I did my best to get the car in hover mode. As Is, she hover about 2' off the ground.

Here is a fast crappy phone pic.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps22916c02.jpg

YzGyz

Damn

You did buy/borrow a transmission jack, right?

Time for a break and update pic before I put it all back together. I had a hard time with the pilot bearing until I went back to HF andbought the 3 prong puller. I had grind down the front and sides down to allow it to fit into the bearing and sit right.

YzGyz

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps383b42af.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps60e7d640.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps10377336.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psfff52b91.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps3b74c99a.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps87bec7b2.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps358bf50c.jpg

YzGyz

The OEM clutch and flywheel looks really good still. They look like they will last a long time before needing to replace given no major HP/TQ increase.

I was planning to get the rear diff dropped and new bushings put in while everythign is out of the way but I work tomorrow and need my car. That project will have to wait then.


http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps119e0155.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse4e1177a.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps969ce598.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps8a4209ca.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse84b0a55.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps4ec6e5d7.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps45da444c.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps4b5a51f7.jpg

YzGyz

YzGyz's turn!
 

Yeah. Jumping into the rear diff on a day you have to work the next day probably isn't the smartest thing :rofl2:

I started removing the transmission Wednesday. I ran into a few hurdles and took things slow because I did not want to mess up. I hand screwed back every screw, nut and bolt back in to it's original spot after removing whatever part. That was my system for keeping each screw, nut or bolt in its correct place, and not lost. The swap out took a lot longer than I thought it would of taken. By far the most complicated car job I have ever done. There is just so little room to work with. Overall, it wasn't that bad. I wanted to do the rear diff at the same time because the car would be already up high, and the drive-shaft would already be removed. Next 3 day weekend I have off, I will tackle that job.

OEM clutch, flywheel cheap plastic thingy in boxed up and put in the attic. I labeled them prior to boxing them up. With a sharpie I wrote, "1-16-15...OEM Nismo...39,765mi."

YzGyz

The turbo kit install should be a breeze after doing the clutch :)

As for nuts/bolts...I always use a sharpie. I write the number beside the bolt head where I pulled it out of, and then the same number on the bolt head itself once it is out. It works great, and you never have to worry about messing things up...every bolt goes back in it's original spot. Anal retentive? OH YES!

I have a magnetic board that's divided into square and its that white board eraseable stuff.

howdy

I have my car mostly back together. I left some stuff off because I will be taking it apart in a week or two anyways. I bleed my clutch and it is only engaging at the bottom half of the stroke. I got frustrated so I bleed it again. I "volunteered" 2 siblings, one at the reservoir, one on the clutch pedal and I was under the car at the bleed line. 20 minutes under the car stepping on clutch, opening bleed, close clutch, let of clutch, repeat while the 3rd man watched the reservoir oil level. FAIL!!! The stupid pedal is still 1/2 dead. I stalled 2x test driving her. I then drove to my local guy and ask Johnny from Jtranz what the heck. He said, "I would change out the master cylinder then bleed the clutch again. It's not that bad with 2 people. It's about a 1hr job." I was like, wth!! I bought one and forgot all about it. Guess I will install it next off day and try again. My car is still drivable (I need to get to work, she is just a little harder to drive that's all). Man this clutch/flywheel makes some noise. CLank Clank Clank as I stop then Clank Clank again about 10 seconds after I stop.

And I looked at my odo, It read 37,965 miles not 39,765... I guess I got to climb back up to the attic and relable the box with my oem clutch.

YzGyz

Hi Hi Rooftop. Hows the air up there?

As for the bold, nut, screw thing, Both of those ways are nice. I have a mag plate myself but I always seem to forget where things go unless I put it within relative close proximity of it. I only do this on big jobs. My memory is bad but not that bad. IDK, I have been doing it this way for a while and it work for me.

I do have a question for you guys with a boost controller. I might post a new thread in the other forum but maybe not. Anyhoo, I'm at a lost as to where to put the sensor for the boost-controller. This bung or whatever you call it needs to get welded on to the pipes somewhere. It would not be a problem if I was to leave the pipes unwrapped but I'm going to wrap them. Basically, I need to know how/where are you guys getting the bung thingy welded on at so I can get it welded (it's suppose to be angled from top down to reduce chances of early failure) so I can then wrap the pipe.

YzGyz

Did you remove the transmission completely out from under the car? We did mine on straight up jack stands and installed the fork for the Z1 kit while the transmission was still under the car. It wasn't too bad.

I removed the whole transmission. I installed the SpecialtyZ 6puck clutch/flywheel with Tilton csc kit. I had to remove the whole thing. Go back a page or two to view the pic.

YzGyz

I only have a small update for the day. I received my UpRev cable they other day. That's just going to sit for a little while. I just finished changing out the clutch master cylinder. It was an easy job, cramped but easy. I now need to bleed the system but can't or should I say won't at the moment. My blocks water supply is nil. I think the construction up the street has something to do with it. What a beautiful day here in Houston. perfect day to work on the car. I hope my 3/4 bottle of Motul rbf600 is enough to bleed and fill the system. IF not, It's going to cost me $21 at the local motorcycle shop.

YzGyz

I'd go buy a bottle just in case. Just don't open it unless you need it. It doesn't have an opened shelf life

A 1/2 bottle should be plenty to bleed the clutch system ... if you know what you're doing. But if you're like just about anyone that starts a thread about clutch bleeding and have problems getting a firm pedal then it will take 1.5 bottles min lol :ugh:

I try to use it up within a week or two and toss anything that older.

I guess I should get another bottle then.. lol!!!

The bottle is new, I just opened her the other day when I bleed the system with the original CMC. The pedal is functional but the 1/2 half is dead. Now the new one is in so I wasn't sure if the 3/4 bottle is enough to bleed the whole system. I'll run out in a bit to grab another bottle. Or, maybe not since the water is not back on. I can't even wash my hand let alone a shower. grrr

YzGyz

A week or so should be ok but once it gets condensation in its fuct

I used about 3/5th of the original bottle of rbf600 to bleed the clutch system. The pedal is a lot better now. It now engages about 1.5" lower than it did with the stock equipment. I like the engagement to be up higher, but I will drive it around for a week and see how she holds up. Chuck said the pedal engagement can be adjusted. We will see.

This new clutch and flywheel chatters a lot! CLANT CLANK CLANK!!

YzGyz

The master cylinder has a rod that extends through the firewall into the footwell. The rod has threads with a bracket that screws onto it. The bracket attaches to the clutch pedal via a clevis pin. If you disconnect the bracket from the clutch pedal, you can unscrew it some and then reconnect the pedal to raise the engagement point.

I did not understand how or what you were talking about with the adjustment. I had to go grab the original and fiddle with it. Eureka! I understand and it took me 15 minutes to make the adjustment. I was spinning the whole thing and hot just the "U" part. I gave the "U" part 4 good spins or so to elongate the arm and it feel OEM again. Thanks you guys.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps2620bb8e.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps29f4ff5f.jpg

YzGyz

Bingo! Glad it worked out for ya :tup:

I made a quick vid with my brother driving by. It's not that good nor does it sound close to what she sounds like in person. Anyhoo, new phone and I have no idea on how to work it yet. First pass is a little over 3500, second is around 5000, both in 1st gear. Now that I think about it. I should of recorded the clank clank of the new clutch/fry.

Oh well.. Anyhoo, I'm linking a few links from my photobucket as I don't know which one to use.

http://vid226.photobucket.com/albums...pse1ytmkil.mp4

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid226.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fdd107%2FThangbom321%2FNismo%2520Boost %2F20150120_1350141_zpse1ytmkil.mp4&title=">

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse1ytmkil.mp4

YzGyz

I was SOO confused at first!! I originally cracked open the lock nut then spun the whole shaft as a whole. The thing would spin all in unison all the way down the to black gasket. That is NO good!! lol

Yeah, thanks to you and Chuck again.

YzGyz

Next time I get a few days off, the diff is getting dropped and the new cover goes on. I'm going to miss being able to jack the car up from it. Ohh well, all in the name of boost.

YzGyz

this is the only reason I didn't get the finned cover when I replaced the diff bushing lol

It's by far a better diff cover

I just having to get down low and then line up the small piece of wood so that I don't crunch up the pinch weld. It's just so much easier to put the jack on the rear differential and lift the back end. Then again, after the next few months, I will be just about done with putting toys on the car. There will only be maintenance which might be often since we all know I'm getting boost. My paranoid self will probably be inspecting the oil lines weekly since so many people have been having problems with it.

YzGyz

I check the oil lines every time before I start the car