It's not the product's fault. I can't imagine it's that fuckin complicated :rolleyes:

It's that Tilton salve that's the issue.

subscribed

Just got my new one in with the thicker base plate and it feels much better. Also engagment seems to be higher but, not sure on that because i have the RJM pedal.

I reserve my finial thoughts after this weekend track days.

Ànyway hope you get yours buttoned up and the BP kit snorting :tup: if you have any questions let me know.

I received the thicker adapter plate the other day. I also had to work that night so all I was able to do was look at it. I installed the adapter plate along with replacing the pilot bearing again yesterday after a short nap. I felt that the transmission has been slid in and out too many times to be in "good" condition so Seb threw one in the box for free. He is trying and is staying in touch. It just sucks with the down time. At current, I'm waiting for my mechanic neighbor to bring his transmission jack home so I can put the car back together.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pswgpal1ek.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps86oohbfx.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psz3btkt03.jpg

Here is a pic showing where I smooshed just the end of the old clutch plate. It's just a 1/8'' of the end that got smooshed. My $250 mistake for thinking I can simply use the bolts to pull the last 1/8'' of the transmission in. GRRRR

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvawxvrl1.jpg

old
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psnhqx27ov.jpg

new
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pspzygufgx.jpg

I will report in when I get the thing up and able to crank her on.

YzGyz

Today is a happy day! I got the transmission back up and got the car started!! I had some trouble with the CSC adapter plate and got in touch with Seb/Johnathan (I think that's his name) and Rob.

I was struggling installing the Transmission last night. I would slide the transmission in but will was not able to get the transmission bell to touch the back of the block. I would end up with a 1/2' gap between the two surfaces. I would then drop the transmission back down and try it again. The transmission would go in but not slide easy. I got frustrated after 4 or 5 tried and said screw it! I'm going to redo the clutch plate and clutch all over! I removed the clutch and clutch plate then put her back together again. The only difference is that I pushed a little up on the centering tool before I snugged the bolts up. I then tried to pull the centering tool and OMG!! The tool slide out like BUTTER!!! I then try and put the transmission back in place again. This time, the shaft slide in perfectly in, nice and smooth but I still had a darn gap! I finally got smart and peeked in the side opening hole where the clutch lines come out at. The FREEKING BEARING SURFACE was already touching the fingers of the clutch plate!! No wonder why I wasn't able to get the bell to touch the back of the engine! This is when I called SpecialtyZ and they got me in touch with Rob. Rob told me to switch back to the original thinner plate that attaches to the CSC. I said ok. He explains to me that I need to test the CSC with the thinner disc to make sure everything is in tolerance once the transmission is up. I switch out the plate and BAM!! she slide right in easy! I put 3 bolts in just to hold her in place and leave the transmission jack there to help support her. I proceed with the test.

This is the run down:
1-pull out piston part of csc and make mark with sharpy about 1/4'' or 1/8'' from back of piston.
2- Someone stay in car and step on clutch when told
3-someone stay under car and keep eye on the piston (the whole unit is a csc, we are concerned about the piston that moves in and out as you depress the clutch pedal)
4-guy under watch the piston as guy in car slowly steps on clutch
5-make note of grease line as that is maximum depth the piston can be pressed into the housing, also make sure that you don't see the mark you made at the back of the piston. If you see the park, tell the guy inside to stop stepping on the pedal and make note of the stroke position. You do not want to push pass that point and pop the seal and let clutch fluid flow everywhere!
6-tell guy to let go of clutch, and make note of the distance between the grease line and where the piston sit in the housing.
7-theorhetically, you only want the clutch pedal to move the piston in and out 400 mills (a little less than 1/2'')

This is to make sure you don't 1, have too long of a stroke and push the piston out of the housing. 2, there need to be a tolerances to allow the piston to reseed back into the housing (about 1/4'', I marked this with a blue sharpy in the video). This is because as the clutch plate wears down and becomes thinner, the finger of the clutch will slowly extend outward (towards the back of car). If there was no "give" room of this 1/4'', the worn clutch plate fingers will not be able to extend back. This cause a symptom similar to riding the clutch ALL THE TIME! The clutch and clutch plate will burn up a lot faster and cause extra wear and tear on the drive train.

Here is a video of the test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYAR...ature=youtu.be

AND HERE IS THE REALLY HAPPY MOMENT!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYde...ature=youtu.be

SHE LIVES!!!! She has a rough idle, I have a check engine light, it says VDC is off (I tried pressing the button a few times to see if it will go away but nope. On a side note, I my "S mode" button is not connected).

I will put most of her back together tomorrow in the daylight. make sure there are no leaks or loose pipes.

After than, I will have someone drive her up and down the driveway and over a 2x4 too see the clearance I have. After all is done, I will put the front bumper back on, give JWick a holla and see about installing the boost controller and Wideband.


YzGyz

Damn. That's a lot of words :rofl2:

Congrats bro:tup:

I had a lot to say. I had a lot of transmission woes. But after 1.5 months of downtime, I finally started her!! whoot!

YzGyz

Got any new info? I know you said you dropped the car back on the ground. Hows the BP kit and tranny combo?:tup:

I got the car back on the ground for a test run but, for some reason the car is idling really rough, can't Rev pass 3k, and my VDC is not working. I used cipher and it said some transmission position sensor is not working. I also had some smoke comming from the engine bay. Not sure what it could be. I only put about 1 hr looking things over though. The car was too hot to dig around and touch. I'll have to take a look at her on Sunday when I get off from work.

As for the clutch, she feels pretty good. Engagement is at about 1/2 way point of the pedal. It's also noticeably firmer but not leg straining hard. I really did not test it much as I only drove a short distance up the block and back.

YzGyz

Subscribing as a fellow BP owner ;)

Any update?

Sorry, no real updates. Jwick came over and showed me how to install the ebc (eboost street) and the wideband. I scheduled with my local shop to have her towed there so he can check her out. I'm making smoke when hot. I had used a few plastic zip ties when I first wrapped the pipes. That are in direct contact with the pipe. Anyhoo, he will give the car a good look over, put a vacuum on my ac system since I installed the CSF, and tune my car. Hopefully I will get her back by the end of the month.

YzGyz

I had the tow truck drop the car off at the shop the yesterday. I get a call this morning while at work by Ron asking what exactly did I want done with the car. I told him to look every everything like I was a dumb azz installer. This insured that everything was looked over and installed correctly. At the end of my shift, I headed home, showered and headed for the shop. I get there and the man is tightening bolts, slipping zip ties, and fiddling with the wastegates. I BS with the shop guys for a bit then watch the Master at work again. The dude is friggin retard! He is super anal! Everything has to run nice and neat, working efficiently, matching, ect. An example of this madness; the dude blows out the vacuum lines with compressed air to clean it before he installs them. He is the MASTER at his work. He end ups redoing all my vacuum lines and trouble shoot my wideband. It turns out that my batter was low from sitting so long and only pulled 8v, and not the 12v needed to "heat" the O2 sensor enough to calibrate it. Anyhoo, Through that ordeal, I was his helper, climbing in and out and pushing this and that for him as he worked and explained why what is what.

Anyhoo, it was a very interesting morning. At current, the car is sitting in the shop waiting to get tuned. Johnny has a few cars already lined up so I'm not sure when it will be my turn. Amber will call me when it's time.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pskzmyteik.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psr51d7ypa.jpg

YzGyz

Good stuff man im gonna have corner3 look over my build once its done.

I'm adding some new toys that my brother bought and added to the garage.

Craftsman Professional series oiled compressor and a older stick welder that was given to us. It came with a a bunch of welding sticks in different sizes to weld SS and iron. Now I need to learn how to weld!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psatsbrukc.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pskgayalvz.jpg

YzGyz

All done! I finally got to drive her! The local shop guys are masters!! There were some hiccups on my part but they fixed it. Johnny said the engine has more left in her but we are both fine with the numbers. Big smile!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psqa6vnarr.jpg

I don't know how many lbs of boost it was dynoed at. Johnny said drive her around for a bit off the springs then come back when I'm ready and turned the EBC off.

YzGyz

Nice! Now go :driving:

Very nice. Take it easy at first, that's a LOT more power than you're used to.

Yeah... good point. Don't go sticking it into a ditch just yet ;)

I'm actually going to get to bed as I have to work tonight. I will look for insurance to cover the new improved car this weekend. I have to put the bumper back on and detail, wash, apply synthetic protection on the paint, then wax her.

YzGyz

Looks like he tuned you right about where he stopped for me. Wonder if you ran out of injector duty too. Might have to run by the shop and talk to Johnny

nice numbers dude!

Yupper Jwick, similar to your numbers. These numbers are plenty good for me. I DD my car everywhere so I'm OK with her. Those shops guys are freeking awesome! They found some of my F-ups and fixed it (with a few F-YOU kiddingly) no problem. Johnny was like, "don't worry about the total yet. Amber will let figure that out when she gets here. Just drive her around then stop by one day to pay it off. Go enjoys it for a while."

Soo cool of him/the shop. This shows me that they are more about the job and service as appose to just $$. I did go and pay whatever number they had already calculated that I owed.

Todays was an eventful day. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a big cheap tool box. Now I have to organize the 100's of tools in it. My battery is 5 years old and been pulling my audio system for a while now. My car needed to get a jump to start once in a while so I went a bought a new battery at Advance with a 40% off coupon! WIN!!!!

Tonight was STEAK NIGHT so BIG WIN there again!!

After the meal, I put my front bumper back on and went to the gas station as I was on E. This was my first joy ride since I picked her up. Man she feels good!! the turbo sound is crazy cool! and the PHHHH!!! Chuck, Jwick and everyone else is right. It's damn worth it! I hope it stays dry tomorrow so I can take a longer drive with her.

YzGyz

I had a bothersome tapping noise as I accelerate from a stop. It appears to be the pipe that comes pre smoothed. The pip was tapping that big screw under it. I took the pipe out and gave her a few taps with a hammer to dent her some more. When I reinstalled it, I turned it to give as much clearance as possible. I took a short test drive and I think I got it fixed. Time will tell.

So far, the car is a total hoot@! Vroom!! Phhss!

YzGyz

Yeah. I've still got one I can't seem to find. I finally said **** it.

The knock was really bothering me. I had looked fir it 2x prior and did not succeed. Luckily the pipes are powder coated so I was able to see the scuff marks where it rubs. After I pounder the dent in a little more for clearance, I sprayed it black in case it rubs. That way, I will be able to see new scuff marks if it rubs.

YzGyz

Slow am I, YES YES! I just came back form the 1/4mi track. What a learning experience. This car is hard to launch! I tried it once w/o VDC and I peeled out all the way through 3rd gear and part of 4th. The speedy read 90 but I only moved probably 100ft. Let's jsut say I left the VDC on after that run. It was really fun though. It's all about the launch!

Anyhoo, I'm going to have to go do it again.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psj4ilqt9p.jpg

YzGYz

That must have been a badly prepared track. You shouldn't be slipping after first in a properly prepped track.

You on full boost or still spring pressure?

Spring

Or because I don't know how to drive. Lol. It's totally different from a dig vs rolling. I didn't know it's that much harder. Now I do.

YzGyz

It's been over 1000 miles since install and I admit, I LOVE BOOST!

I just had my car in the air to have a quick inspection of the turbo system and to find this inferno clunking I feel and hear when I load then unload the drive train.

Turbo system - everything good and working great. My oil lines are good. No leaks or anything... Yosh!

Clunk- It turns out to be minor free play in the rear diff. When I unload the drive train when releasing the gas, and the car starts to drags a little, this little bit of free play creates a clunk. When I hold the tires still and just turn the DS, it moves maybe 2mm or 3mm. I know it's not a lot but I still feel it. Imagine using a sledge hammer tapping the back of your car ever time you get and then off the gas. The only difference is this hammer is actually the weight of the car itself. Of course the swing is only a distance of 3mm but it's a heck of a lot of weight.

On a side note, I went and took a look at the pipe that was tapping my frame before. It seems that my hammer knocks worked great. No rub marks on the new paint I put on it. You can see the area where there is a deeper impression due to that bolt hitting and rubbing it prior to the fix.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psgcpkvtdx.jpg

Another thing I encountered since the turbo is having ran over a part of a brick or something on the highway. It looked to be the size of a tape measure. I didn't have time to react to it and the best I was able to do was slam the breaks some. I hit that thing and it exploded under my car! A sudden outcry of bad words and was on my way home. I took a look under the car real fast and did not see anything wrong. Heck, the car drove fine the rest of the way home. Then I went to the 1/4 mile that night.. Anyhoo, With the car up and closer inspection, I found this.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pspprl6e3p.jpg

This is the pipe that Shasha promises to replace for free if it breaks. This is also the lowest part of my car. the pipe is just dented. She still holds pressure. This pipe is up as high as me and my mechanic can get it up without it knocking into the transmission.
I might make a short side rolling video of the underside and side skirt to show how low/high up the turbo sits for everyone to see.

I guess I will just have to watch out for these road debris more often and not drive as close to other cars so that I may have more time to react.

YzGyz

Here is a short side view video of the kit to show how high it is. Don't mind the scuffed up side skirt. I scraped it on a extra high speed bump.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RGw...ature=youtu.be

YzGyz

I went to the local car mod shop because I wanted to know how there TT C7 project was going along and saw this cool car! I just wanted to share with everyone. I hope the owner don't mind me sharing his car.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psmq9fewmb.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse5pbxyfm.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscwyoodo6.jpg

YzGYz

waoo that is history man!! looks like new :drool:

So just read through this entire thread and I must say, WOW!!! Props to you bro, for having the initiative and know-how on doing all this stuff to your car.

I do minor electrical mods, but these big mechanical ones like the diff and stuff are just leagues beyond my ability, not to mention this is my daily so I don't have a beater on the side :(

Anyways, send us some vids of some WOT pulls if you get a chance :)

I just like to tinker. Some of the things I do are first time thing but I like to learn. I don't trust just anyone to work on my cat. Plus it's a hobby and saves me $. I have gotten help from many people through all sorts of mediums (face to face like Jwick, my local shop, phone talks, emails, forums, ect). It's really cool to find, meet and talk to people with the same interests.

Ps, some of the things I have done would of been cheaper if I paid someone, but I wanted to do it myself.

YzGyz

I got tired of looking at my EBC and AFR gauge ghettoly (is that even a word?) stuffed in the cubby. The cubby is was perma-open because then two gauges did not fit all the way inside. It just look like a mess! All that $$ and nice azz ride to go sit inside and see the zip tie cluster of poop mess. Today I started the gauge and EBC mounting project.

Things I thought about as I brain stormed the build.
-easy to do
-nice clean fit
-low budget
-looks like it can be OEM
-little or no car downtime
-easy to get supplies to do the project

Just a side story but I'm also building a Pepakura halo suit. This is basically a paper mache-ish suit that print out as a 2d puzzle. You then glue these pieces together and reinforce it to make it wearable. I used this same idea for the basis of my gauge pod setup.

Firt step, PROTECT THE RIDE!! I had a old roll of masking tape lieing around and tried to mask off the area in which I was going to make the mold. Fail! The tape will not adhere to the dash or alcantera. It just slips right off. I tried scrubbing the surface, with multiple mild cleaners in fear of messing up the interior, but the tape would not stick. So, I went back to the old trick again. Foil the bish! You want to make lots of tiny crinkles as you lay the foil down. The crinkle make it more ridged, allowing you to work it flat and stay in place, and allows you to work it into curves and corners without ripping. I did two layers of foil being carfull to overlap to protect the car's interior. After laying the foil was down, I took a old ID card and smooth the foil out as best I could while being careful to not rip through the foil.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscu3vfqcx.jpg

Next step was to get the supplies ready. I grabs a few sections of newspaper and cut them into strips. The newspaper that you want to use is the non shiny one. These type of paper soak and absorb better, leaving better finished results.

After the paper were stripped, I got the paste ready. A little bit of flour and water mixed to a thin but gooey consistency. You don't wan the paste to be too watery as it will run right off the paper. Too thick on the other hand will clump and smear everywhere when worked smooth. Mix this paste of really well as you don't want a foul clump. You also don't wan tot make a big batch of this stuff. Make about 3/4 to 1 cup of flour worth at a time. Once you run out of the paste, its time to let everything dry. You don't want to build a tick layer of paper mache the never dies and grows mold or yeast between the layers.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psxy4ef1dt.jpg

Next you drag the strips of paper into the paste. You want the bottom side of the paper to scrap the side and edge of the bowl as you load the paper with paste. This evenly spreads the paste while leaving a think film of paste on the paper. Lay the loaded paper strips over the prepped area while being careful not to splash or dirty clean areas. You want to overlap the strips as you build the peper mache mold. As lay the paper, you will notice that the paper gets a little soggy as a little time passes. IF you have enough layers (maybe 3 or 4) of paper down, you can press and work the paper mache better into creases and crevasses. Build the papermache until you run out of paste. Once out of paste, carefully remove dirty items and leave the area while trying to not touch anything not wanting to get dirty. Come back later when the first layer dries and add more layers in multiple sets till desired thickness is reached.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pszcnoafzu.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psjurrhqfz.jpg

This is where I'm at for now. First batch done. I will come back and add at least 2 more batches to ensure the paper mache mold is strong enough to retain its shape.

To be continued!!
YzGyz

I'm intrigued...

You got my attention. Great build BTW and what shop do you use in Houston?

In for pics and progress.