Won't my Under Tray cover everything us from sight? Plus the car is fairly low.

YzGyz

It's a little easier for me. The G has a grill so I can see the oil cooler. Plus you can look from the side and see the lines and with a flashlight you can check the undershroud for oil pooling. I'm super anal

You freeking engineers..... Always with the bung hole stuff. I'm a ICU nurse and although I'm careful at work, when I'm anywhere else, I do just enough or a little bit more.

YzGyz

Can't help who you are :tup:

New rear differential bushings and finned NISMO cover installed last night. It took me a good 5hrs to do mostly alone. I only had help to drop and the FI axial back and differential.

I added my videos to the existing DIY thread for convenience and to keep things all in one place, reducing extra thread and clutter.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-bushings.html

YzGyz

I was digging in my photobucket account and found this. I forgot I had this thing. This was bone stock other than K&N short rams installed. It was humid that day and Something like 64 degree. Anyhoo, I thought my car was more powerful but I guess not.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psdd909d51.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps067ca854.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...1b505087-1.jpg

YzGyz

That's about right for a stock car on JTrans old mustang dyno

Small yet big update time.

I was finally getting use to driving with the new SpecialtyZ clutch/fly then a few days ago my clutch started to feel spongy. I re bleed the clutch with a 3 man operation to make sure no air entered the system. I had one sibling in the driver seat to depress the clutch and one at the oil reservoir to keep it topped off at all times. I was under the car with the wrenches and called out when to press and hold and I crack the bleeder open, let it run a second, close then call out, "let the clutch go." The clutch felt good again until yesterday evening as I was driving to work. It's spongy again and engagement is 1.5" off the floor. This is kinda of pissing me off. IT should not be this hard to get a simple clutch system to feel/work right. I plan to do as I have stated in another thread. I believe the new CSC requires more fluid = a longer fuller stroke of the clutch to get good release and engagement. It's something in like, the CSC oil area is increased while the MC oil area is the same so when you depress the OEM MC, the amount of oil that is squeeze into the CSC is less and lifting it less do the the larger oil volume.

So, my new plan of attack to rectify this problem is to screw in and shorten the rod attached to the MC as much as it can. I will then bleed the system once more. After bleeding the clutch system, I will then go and extend the MC rob as much as it will allow safely allow. This is all in hopes of getting as much oil into the MC as possible so that when it is depressed, a larger volume of oil is squeezed into the CSC and getting it to lift more = higher engagement point. At least that's what I think it will work out.

OHH, and I'm officially BROKE!!! Thanks Shasha!!

YzGyz

I just finished doing the above. The clutch feels good again. I hope it stays that way. My back hates me right now.

BUT THE BIGGEST UPDATE OF ALL!!!! CAR PAID OFF!!!!!!!! B!tch IS MINE!!!

YzGyz

My clutch is giving me problems but I'm working with Specialty Z on fixing the problem. The clutch engaging low again. It's almost on the floor like it was before. A smooth ride is out of the question as she stands.

Anyhoo, I received some presents, TurboSmart E-boost Street and some wrap.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psklzkkqv2.jpg

The EBC is control bos is the size of a bi-fold wallet. That's a good thing as I can fit in the cubby until I decide to make something for it.

Jwick, that offer on helping with the install of the EBC still stands? I skimmed the PDF that came on the small CD and I don't understand. I need retard level instruction when installing electronics (except for audio systems).

Gonna go and update the list now.

YzGyz

YzGyz's turn!
 

Send me a link to the instruction manual and I'll take a look. If there's nothing I'm uncomfortable with I'd be willing to assist

Done! You the man!

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-cont...psi_MAY_12.pdf

YzGyz

I recommend you not hooking up the optional stuff and this looks pretty straight forward

My Big 120lb box came in and I got excited. Can you tell? this will now wit in the living room for a week just as is since I can't install it yet.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps9ylafxga.jpg

How much of this stuff are you guys wrapping? Are you wrapping all the non powder coated areas?

YzGyz

The turbo manifold/crossover pipe, recirculation piping and the downpipe

I just drove my car again and I still hate how the clutch is feeling. I'm going to drop the transmission again and check everything out. I'm paranoid that I did not tighten one of the ss lines enough. Idk why but I do. While the transmission is out, I'll Crack open the demon bolts since they will be right in the open. Grrr!! So gust rating this clutch.

YzGyz

Got my new Rad and hoses from the local guy. Had some mean cars there!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psw0poll17.jpg

I will be putting this in the car this weekend.

YzGyz

Strongly recommend a beat gun for the hoses. They are a bitch to get on

Thank for the tip jwick. Your my go to guy for help on this install.

I have an industrial heat gun so I'm good to go. If I need more muskles, I'll let you know.

YzGyz

It's a pain if you try the grease and even hot water. Heat it up with the heat gun, don't over do it and melt it, and it slips right on.

Thank for the tip jwick. Your my go to guy for help on this install.

I have an industrial heat gun so I'm good to go. If I need more muskles, I'll let you know.

YzGyz

New CSF radiator is in. The install was easy. It would of taken me about 2hr-2hr 15 minutes if I didn't have to trim some of the plastic shrouding attached to the fan. I HATE it when I have to modify things when thing are suppose to be "direct replacement." I spent 20-45 minutes shining a light in what ever crevasse I could and I peer into the little holes to see where the CSF rubs the plastic. My other problem is that I installed the 2 AC hoses with the original black O-rings on it. My CSF radiator did not have the 2 hoses (The lines were given away to another 370 before I bought it. The Shop assured me that they will help if it don't work out. I trust my local shop." I need to run out tomorrow and get 2 more gallons of 50/50 to fill and start her. After I am assured that the Rad does not leak, I drop the transmission again to make sure that the CSC and SS likes are good. I need to figure out the clutch bogginess. Then after the transmission if back up, onward with the Turbo kit!

I hope she hold a vacuum.

Anyhoo, PICS!!!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psoy8sikwo.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psomq85wqh.jpg

YzGyz

If you didn't drain the block I'd just go back in with straight water. We don't get enough cold days to run 50/50 and the block should have enough coolant to cover you for our weather. I went back with straight water

I reused my factory lines too as I couldn't get the ones supplied by CSF to fit up. I've not had any issues to date

I already bought it online, I just need to pick it up. I was thinking of just topping it off with my RO water from my filter but ehh, just in case we get a freak freezing day.

So in a week or so you want to come over and help with the Boost Controller?

YzGyz

If our days off line up I'll come by and check out the build and give you some assistance

What part of town do you live in?

I'm on the north side on town. I'm probably about 3 miles from Jranz.

YzGyz

I was a raining and a little cold out yesterday so I stayed inside for the evening. I spent a few hours wrapping my exhaust in DEI Titanium heat wrap. I missed a spot here and there but the wrap did not want to stay put! It took about 85' of wrapping to cover the hot side piping. I went back and safety tied a few more area in case something caught on the pipe and frayed it open. I don't want the whole wrap to unravel.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psmu6t7klj.jpg

So now that there is plenty of light out (even with the clouds), I will be dropping the transmission.

YzGyz

I dropped the transmission today. It appears to be functioning correctly after the second try at it. I'm going to call Specialty Z in the morning since they are closed right now.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post3134274

I really hope it is just a bleed problem. OMG this is so dookie!!

YzGyz

update on the clutch, I received an email after the okay it's working right email. He asked me to send the kit in so he and his guy can check it out. Luckily I did not reinstall the transmission last night. I would of been pissed! Anyhoo, I packed the kit nice and sent it via Fedx. There goes $58. AR least it will give me piece and mind about the spongy clutch. So much damn time, work and effort with the transmission thing. I guess I'll skip around in the installation book and do what I can for now. That means under the hood stuff, oil, fuel pump And maybe pre route some of the pipes to the FMIC.

YzGyz

Damn man, sorry to hear about the troubles. Hope you get everything worked out :tup:

I am not taking it easy and working at a slow pace since it will be at least 4 days before I get my clutch back. I'm thinking it I wont get it back for a week. Sucks!! Ohh well. So I been doing what I can with the car.

Add a wire installed.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psx5zllkeb.jpg

I just dont know where and how to hook these wires up. The manual jumps from trim the fuse box to taking the plenum apart and fuel rail. So I just shoved the wires under the cover for now. lol Any help or instruction would be appreciated.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pskgiiay3h.jpg

Added the oil pan spacer and dip stick extension thing. My hands and arm got really messy working by the pan after I installed it especially for the "Tee" extension for the oil sensor and turbo oil feed. After prying the lower oil pan off, I cleaned it with a razor. It was clean but not spotless of the old sealant especially where I pry and bent it. I broke out the wire wheel and drill and cleaned up the lower pan and the upper pan on the engine. It worked wonderfully.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps4zeb2jei.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psek0i6pex.jpg

I had some trouble with the oil cooler line. They were too short.. Heck, they can still use an inch or two on both lines. I ended up cutting off the corner of the ABS so I could route the SS oil lines through the hole. They just barely reached!! I had to connect them to the thermostatic plate then install the plate. PIA!!!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psegjwhrsn.jpg

Corner cut off in this pic. (I actually used a pedal bit and drilled consecutive holes then snapped them off with pliers.)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psyzy5tyte.jpg

Speaking about the Thermostatic oil plate, anyone knows what size socket it is? I don't have one that fits it. I was using a adjustable box wrench thing but I can't get it tight enough.

Tomorrow will be spark plug and injector day. If I have extra time, it will also be fuel pump day.

YzGyz

The day started with me attempting to remove my brace so that I could get to the spark plugs, throttle body and injectors. FAIL!!! I disconnected my battery when I removed my transmission. The dang windshield whippers are impeding me access to the top 2 screw of the brace! I thought about plugging the batter back in but nah!! Not worth it if if some electrical mishaps or ecu problem comes up. I'll just wait and do that later as well.

So, the only thing I'm able to do is the fuel pump swap.

Here is the fuel tank.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pstnjb614f.jpg

This is the pump pulled out of the fuel tank.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps3gzgnjxl.jpg

This is the fuel pump assembly taken apart so that I could swap the pump out. The CJM fuel kit is on top. Look at the size difference between the two pumps.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvb2yqbzt.jpg

Here is the OEM fuel pump retainer cut out so that the new pump can fit.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psevxssuz4.jpg

The new pump fits right in with space to spare!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psk0kd865u.jpg

Here she is put back together.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psco7kdf3r.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps4fndw9vj.jpg

When installing the fuel line adapter, don't tighten the clamps until you line everything up nice and strait.

And so my car and garage will sit like this until I get my transmission reinstalled unless someone can walk me through on what to do with the loose end of the "add a fuse."

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psanejhtfo.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pso4gghg2q.jpg

Don't mind the ladder. I'm using it to work in the engine bay wince I can't see or reach anything since the car is in hover mode.

YzGyz

Don't the instructions tell you exactly which fuse to replace? Pretty sure mine did

It did. I just don't know what to do with the other end... lol.. if it's not spelled out.. I'm lost.. Mayhaps it's in the Example manual..Even it is, I don't know what to do with the two small rings. Then again I didn't really try hard to find out what to do since I'm not in a rush anymore.

YzGyz

Picture of your issue?

You can text it to me if that's faster

Post #112 up top, 2nd pic.

I don't know what to do with those wires. I have the quick connect end that hooks to the Example pump. I just don't know what goes where. It's not in the manual.

YzGyz

The black ring goes to the negative battery post. The red post to the positive. The red and black with blue crimped ends splice to the pump and the yellow remains unconnected. This would be for the Exa pump the fuel pump is similar

Fuel pump is done. There were instructions for that..:icon17:

So you're good then?