Nice

Welcome to the club. Once you have a lift, you start wondering how you survived without one.

You might be right. like you lift better though. It's more "capable" but cost a good deal more too. I looked at that 1/2 lift and the one that Tbatt has. All very nice units.

YzGyz

Any lift is better than none. It just makes life so much easier.

updated first page on totals. now up to $14,850 and I'm missing a few more stuff that I'm not putting up as they are dependent on shop charges.

I added some SPL rear camber arms, SPC toe bolts, z1 SS break lines, Z1 urethane transmission mount and just ordered some NT05r 305/35/19 for my drag rims. I also had my rear camber aligned to .5 degree neg. I would of went 0 and be perfectly neutral but I still DD her some and didn't want crazy tire roll on high speed turns.

SPL and SS like
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...sjslo5ac4.jpeg

trans mount
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...so04xruxn.jpeg

And because I LOVE THE LIFT !!!! It makes workign on the car SO MUCH EASIER!!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...sxbq8gbkg.jpeg

Things will be fun soon.

YzGyz

We went to the track Friday night. I didn't really focus on anything. We simply went to WOT and have fun. The NT05r stick SOO MUCH BETTER than street tires! I don't know what RPM in a good RPM to launch yet but I'll get it one day. I either bog or spin on launch.

A revelation came to me a month or two ago when I first mounted my DRs. I remember way back in the day when I was in HVAC apprentice. Sometimes we will walk into new build houses and the carpet were protected with a clear film to walk on. I went to the local hardware store and found a roll Surface Shield. The roll is 24'' wide by 50' long at around $10. I did a quick spray down of my rear quarter panel to get rid of dirt and grime in the AM then let it dry. I slapped the film on prior to driving to the drag strip. I think this stuff would also be great hood and bumper protection on track days or cross country drive. The film is thick and peels off easily with out leaving any residue.

Here is a quick side view of the car with the protestant on the rear panel, HR 10''wx19'' rims wrapped in NT05r 305/35/19.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psgpakwwd9.jpg
Here is a close up view of the meaty tire.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps6v00oudd.jpg
And here is a front view because the front looks as good as the booty view.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pstlaz8gub.jpg

YzGyz

This is what I used to protect my fenders. I had taken this picture before I used it but just recently found the picture to post it.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psldvytols.jpg

YzGyz

It has been a while. Some minor updates.

I got my first door ding last week. Some red car dings me good. The picture don't show the big dent but it's pretty bad for a door ding. I didn't want to spend too much time trying to capture the blemish as it pisses me off. almost 40k miles and then a careless d!ck comes along.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psiaqpgnje.jpg

I had a over boosting bug that has been around for a while. It seems I am over boosting over spring pressure by an estimated 40%. My 7.5lb spring will boost to 12.5 lbs. The 5.5 lbs spring will boost to 8.2lbs of boost.

Things I have done:
-take off the top port of the wastegate to run pure spring pressure. Results in 40% higher boost than spring.
-changed form 7.5 lbs spring to 5.5lb spring. Results in 40% higher boost.

This at least is consistent and narrows it down to the waste gate itself. I think carbon build up in the waste gate is causing friction and in turn requiring more pressure to open the spring up (no bleeding off of compressed air) which means more compressed air to my engine.

I rigged up a tire pump so I could blow air into the waste gate to test that it worked correctly. Unfortunately, my air regulator was not able to precisely blow 5.5lbs but it did show that the WG opened at 5-10lbs psi.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvb7gbkzx.jpg

It was when I took the WG apart that I noticed lots of carbon build up. I'm catless right now so I'm not surprised. I did a quick brushing and had to slap her back together as I didn't have the time or equipment to thoroughly clean them.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psuicdo455.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psrj0p4hus.jpg

Lastly I had to make sure that my EBC/Boost Gauge was reading correctly. I bought a cheap mechanical boost gauge and rigged it up. I made a few pulls. Ok Ok, a few dozen pulls to check if they 2 boost reading where the same. They were so my EBC checks out ok.

Things to do to try and solve the problem. I will tear teh WC apart and clean it when I get the chance. I bought some 000 steel wool to clean the WG parts. In the hard to reach or stubborn parts, I will use my cheap $20 media blaster with walnut shell media and blast the parts clean. Once Again, Back on the lift she goes. I will do my maintenance all at the same time. Oil change, turbo filter change, check clamps to make sure they are on nice and snug, and change out my oversized t-bolt clamps on my water cooling hoses (4 clamps). I bought 1 size to big and don't like how they are so I bought 4 smaller ones to replace the replacements.

Almost 10k miles boosted and 100+ runs down the drag strip. It's been fun.

YzGyz

I put the car on the lift and raised her up. As soon as I went under, I saw OIL EVERYWHERE!!! WTH! Oil all over the undertray, on top of the undertray, on the plastic front support, everywhere! I saw a little oil spot the other day the size of a quarter and didn't think much of it. Well, there is oil everywhere! It appears to originate from the 30 row oil cooler somewhere in the last few bottom rows. I have not pinpointed if it is in deed the cooler or not but I took things apart to look for it. I plan to blow air in it and spray soap water to find bubbles. It got dark and the bugs are eating me alive! I will have to figure it out tomorrow.

10k miles and this is the first big hick-up. I have to find this leak and keep an eye open after the fix. I don't see how it could leak or puncture a hole as the FMIC is in front of it. No leaks or hole in the FMIC that I seen.

Tops is dry like the desert. No oil anywhere.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psvu91fqky.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psnmaq0r7w.jpg

You can see the oil on the bottom few rows.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psw0gfbg9y.jpg

This is the underside. Look at all that oil under there!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pssgsc87r5.jpg

More oil!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps7zqivqb1.jpg

YzGyz

I found the leak! There is a pin hole in the 30 row oil cooler itself! I tried soapy water and pressurizing the core to try and find bubbles but no luck. I ended up dunking the whoel thing in water and pressurizing the core to find the tiny little bubbles that came out of the bottom row near the middle. I'm going to ask Shasha if there is any warranty on the core. I don't think it's been a year yet but we will see. This means my car is down and out till I get a new oil cooler.

Here is a picture of the general area where the leak is at. I'm pointing at it.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psif0x7jv9.jpg

I stuck a zip tie in the fin in the area where I saw the air bubbles.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psjej3cs4r.jpg

I then moved on to cleaning the WG. The whole WC is put together with allens. It was super easy to take apart. You unscrew the top to reveal the spring. you change this spring to change your boost pressure (careful the last few turns as the spring is pushign the cap up. You need to hold it down as you take the last few screws off). I have the 5.5 lbs on in. It's over boosting so that's why I'm taking it apart and cleaning it.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psoqryciij.jpg
Once the top is open, you can see the diaphragm which opens a bypass for the extra pressurized air to expel.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscp2wr5ij.jpg

I went and cleaned everything with a 000 steel wool and my HF media blaster. It's as good as new! The diaphragm is perfect. No holes or anything. I put the WG back together and put a few drops of pneumatic oil in a few spots and she is now ready to go back on the car. I hope that resolves my over boosting problem.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psd8xvegmw.jpg

YzGyz

It's official! ! Sasha is a magician! I sent him a pm yesterday and got answered today! He is taking care of my leak. I am seriously impressed with how he runs his business! ! People like him make the Z so damn good!! He needs to make catholic cans so I can buy then!

Thanks BP!
Yzgyz

I just received my replacement oil cooler core. I will be changing parts from the old leaker and installing the new one in a bit.

I have to make the public announcement once more that Sasha of Boosted Performance is THE MAN!! His business and CS is beyond what the model business does.

Thanks for making life that much more enjoyable.
YzGyz

It's been a little while since I posted on my thread so a small update just for the sake of a update post.

I took a buddy for a joy ride in my car today. We went to the local fried chicken place as it's Chicken Tuesday z $1.19 for a b drum and thigh. It was his first time in the car so I gave her the gas. He was like ohh sh!t. With one hand already gripping the already fasten belt said, "I damn let me put my FN belt on!" Guess he forgot what he was holding. A few more pulls and it was chicken time.

Man I love making smiles and bung holes pucker.

YzGyz

Loool! nice :tup:

Yet again I have another small update. Went to the local 1/8 drag again on Friday. Lot's of decent racers out with the cool night air. Anyhoo, I clocked crazy time on my first pass. I'm not sure how accurate it is as the right lane, the lane I was on was a little finicky. The tree's 2nd to top row light did not work right so the guy with the button was eyeballing people to stage. He did it really careful when it was my turn after I made my burnout with turbo howling. So this is the time slip. I'm not believing the slip as the 60' is insane but then again, I did haul azz and I do have proof for whatever it's worth.

1/8 mile track, nice cool night (unsure of temp but I'm thinking mid 80's),

tires: all 4 corners toe set to 0 and camber set to 0 in the back, HR 18' racing rims in back with NT05r drag radials, front pumped to 40 psi warm, rears 25 psi warm

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psgkwbnosx.jpg

YzGyz

OHH god!!! update time!

Not so good news though. So may car broke down a month or so ago. It was a fuse that some how blew up. I chased the line and did not see any shorts or anything.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pswqfzscj3.jpg

After I solved that problem I had a crazy AFR problem. I I really didn't know where to look or chase the problem down to fix that. I have turned lots and lots of wrenches on my car but I did not know where to start. With some "the370z" help, I got it fixed. The best part was it only cost me $8. It took a lot of time trouble shooting and frustration but we (my forum friends and I) got it done. It turned out to be bad seal between by turbo and exhaust pipe.

Now we fast forward to last night. OMG!! I though everything was great so I went ot the race track. F me!!! On my 5th or 6th run my car jacked up! On the burn out I heard a pop! The tech got me to back up so I did. Everything worked fine but SOMETHING was WRONG when the tech picked up a piece of metal from the floor. OMG!! I went around and asked one of the hard core racers if I could borrow there jack so I could investigate what happened. The horror!!

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscb4lav8p.jpg

Can we say FAWK!!!

So I don't understand what and how it happened but My car hoped for some reason (It's has not hopped since i put poly bushings and drag radials). So anyhow, I got her towed home and I tore her apart today. I lowered the rear differential and shook my head. I'll let the pic do the talking. I don't know how it happened but it just snapped off.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps2foizndd.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psx0rgla8w.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pssjvsqbrf.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psrkowbjjq.jpg

My differentials looks ok. I gave it a good cleaning. nothing seems broken. I'm in search of a diff cover to slap her on, add 80-90 trans fluid inside her and reinstall her.

Ohh sometimes I just have to shake my head at my Z..

YzGyz

Damn that's pretty crazy!!! :eek:

Wow.

Is that a NISMO cover?

The Z1 cover has a reinforced mounting boss for the stud... I always wondered why such a thing would be necessary. Now I guess I know.

It also increases fluid capacity =)

If you wanted to go cheaper - i have my OEM cover laying around.

This is not the OEM cover. This is the finned cover kit form Z1 I believe (you get the cover, Red-Line oil and RTV). I inspected the internals as best I could while turning and cleaning the inside. I cleaned the inside of the pumpkin as best as I could with water and dish soap (to emulsify the oil). I used lots and lots of rags to mop up the slurry. Once things look good I took the garden hose to her to rid of any residual water/soap then used compressed air to blow out all the water.

I lost my OEM cover somewhere. I dug around looking for it as my internals look darn good! I just need a cover finned or not. I just need a cover, lube, rtv and I'll be good to go. I'm seeing if I could find one locally. I'll send you a pm anyways.

YzGyz

PM Replied! I think that is the Nismo cover. Z1 sells the cover upgrade kit with either the Nismo cover or the Z1 cover....

Z1 Cover:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/images...0370Z-3531.JPG

Nismo Cover:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/images...r-ba135131.jpg

Look like it J. It's busted somehow though. IDK what or how but it sucked!

Thanks to Jwick, Chuck and everyone else that helped me out or offered to.

I got a OEM cover from Chuck. She was tired looking so I cleaned her up with a wire wheel. I put some RTV on and finger tighten it to let it dry. I put her all back together and now she it back on the road.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psezl2exf4.jpg

YzGyz

That's what happens to the cover when you let the jelly filling out of that bushing.

no jelly in that poly bushings. This is the 2nd time I have dropped the rear diff. The first time I dropped her I changed the diff cover and the jelly filled bushings.

YzGyz

Long time no post, life been busy. Unfortunately I have decided to let me Z go. I will be reverting her back to OEM and selling her and the turbo kit. IF anyone in the Houston area interested in the BP kit, my Z or both, LMK. I will be starting to task of taking everything apart in a hour or so. Lucky I kept all my oem part. The only I just can't find my fuel injectors. I know I have them but I don't know where. If anyone has a set for cheap LMK.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
looking for OEM fuel injector
selling my Z and BP kit

YzGyz

I will have some OEM injectors in about 1mo if you can hold out.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Thank GBrett but the car is down and out as is. I have already started to dismantle her. The garage is a mess so i'm digging around for my tools and it's taking lot of time. So a good note to all, keep your tools in order so when you need them, you have them.

YzGyz

I have some my stock injectors somewhere. I just have to look for them lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I been MIA for a long long time! Life got busy for a while. It's going to get busy again in not too long.

Update time.

So I got tired of working on my car so I Mokujin my car (It's my way of saying downgraded. I got it from a episode of Futurama where Bender downgraded his body from metal to wood.). Boost is awesome but having a boosted car as a daily really beats on the car. I was also racing fairly often so that doesn't help either. My 5th gear started grinding and little this and that's kept breaking. I lost the luxury of time so I had/have little time to be tinkering with my Z thus the took the turbo kit off and now back to factory. Everything is at my brother's house in random boxes. With the turbo kit, I could not simply send the car to any shop and have it fixed. I would have to send it to a speed shop and wait in line for my car to get fixed. I could not afford the $$ nor down time.

It feels so weird to drive the car now. It's just so...WEAK now! The trade off is that it don't break down anymore. And if she do somehow go down, I could send her to a shop if I wanted to now. Maybe one day when I have time and $$ again I could beef things up and reinstall the snail. Until then, it's Mokujin Z.

YzGyz