GaleForce's build

onzedge · 06-10-2016, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

New parts!!!!

RJM CMC for Nissan 370Z by Jason Gale, on Flickr

GaleForce · 06-10-2016, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Sexy!! I got mine earlier this week ... leaving work early this afternoon to do the install

I'm not sure when I'll get around to it. I really don;t feel like bleeding the clutch system again.

Yes I'm lazy.

JARblue · 06-10-2016, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

I'm not sure when I'll get around to it. I really don;t feel like bleeding the clutch system again.

Yes I'm lazy.

I need to send an email to Ryan. Sounds like I'll need to bleed it before I connect the clutch pedal. From what I read on his website (or maybe on the clutch pedal installation instructions), I should leave the OEM pedal connected to bleed. But I'm installing the 3.1 revision to replace a 2.1 rev, so I won't be able to do a bleed with the OEM pedal. Hoping I can just install the CMC and bleed it with the clutch pedal assembly removed completely - just pump the master rod manually that's what she said

I also need to figure out how easy/difficult it will be to remove the clutch hard line that is being replaced. I guess its easy enough to just cut it out if I have to. I'm planning to do a DIY, but I always forget to take pictures when things are going well lol.

GaleForce · 06-10-2016, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I need to send an email to Ryan. Sounds like I'll need to bleed it before I connect the clutch pedal. From what I read on his website (or maybe on the clutch pedal installation instructions), I should leave the OEM pedal connected to bleed. But I'm installing the 3.1 revision to replace a 2.1 rev, so I won't be able to do a bleed with the OEM pedal. Hoping I can just install the CMC and bleed it with the clutch pedal assembly removed completely - just pump the master rod manually that's what she said

I also need to figure out how easy/difficult it will be to remove the clutch hard line that is being replaced. I guess its easy enough to just cut it out if I have to. I'm planning to do a DIY, but I always forget to take pictures when things are going well lol.

You can bench bleed the CMC, then install it. I assume the RJM pedal assembly would be adjusted to "factory" setting when bleeding the rest of the system.

Don't forget to take pics for your DIY

jwick · 06-10-2016, 09:02 AM

I guess I'm the only one not using a RJM pedal

JARblue · 06-10-2016, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

I guess I'm the only one not using a RJM pedal

Sounds like it ...

Hotrodz · 06-10-2016, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

I guess I'm the only one not using a RJM pedal

I don't have one either, I removed the clutch helper spring and called it good lol.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

TerribleONE · 06-10-2016, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

I guess I'm the only one not using a RJM pedal

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I don't have one either, I removed the clutch helper spring and called it good lol.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

I am not running one either but have been considering picking one up lately.

JARblue · 06-10-2016, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

You can bench bleed the CMC, then install it. I assume the RJM pedal assembly would be adjusted to "factory" setting when bleeding the rest of the system.

Don't forget to take pics for your DIY

Ryan just responded. He said the 75% stock AFP setting for the pedal will bleed the system just fine. Also, the frame grommet comes right out for easy removal of the clutch hard line being replaced

There does appear to be a minor issue with a few people who ordered the upgraded clevis fork. Not a big deal though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJM Performance

One note though that came to my attention last night regarding the new HD clevis is I missed installing an alternate size bushing in your pedal arm along with a number of other customers. I apologise for this as it was completely my mistake on that one. The standard size bushing installed in the pedal arm is about a 1/32” too wide to fit into the new clevis which has a narrower opening than the oem clevis. As well the pin in the new clevis is 8mm (.315”) and the bushing is 5/16”(.312) so the quick pin that came with the clevis is ever so slightly too big to pass thru the bushing easily. I’m going to be refunding everyone affected the purchase price of the clevis later today and you can keep the clevis for use doing the below simple mod or put it aside if you don’t wish to make it fit and use the factory gold clevis. Fortunately correcting this pretty easy if you want to use the better clevis.
To correct the bushing width you’ll want to remove both Allan head screws holding the AFP slide plate to the pedal arm of the R3.1 unit so you can remove the slide plate and then using a metal file you can take a little bit off both sides of the bushing until the new clevis slots over it. The bearing material is fairly soft and will file down to size quickly. Then reinstall the AFP plate at the 75% mark and clip the spring back under the longer bolt on the left side. For the pin is much simpler, just use the standard silver pin and hairpin clip from the hardware bag supplied as it fits both the clevis and the bushing properly.

jwick · 06-10-2016, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I don't have one either, I removed the clutch helper spring and called it good lol.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

That's all I did. Clutch is stout but not undriveable to the point I think I need assistance. Now if my CMC goes I'll probably but the bullet and do the whole swap.

solidus · 06-10-2016, 11:09 AM

If I had a do over I would've installed the RJM pedal after my clutch install. I installed just before I had the clutch done then made adjustments to the pedal. Forgot to mention it to the shop doing the install and they had a helluva time bleeding. I went to adjust it again after I got the car back and was getting clutch drag at 75%. Freaked out emailing Ryan and basically I bought it all the way back out and worked my way back. Had I installed it after the it would've been much less a hassel. I want that upgraded CMC next. BTW: If you do install with the clutch it has to be adjusted to Zero to bleed. That's what my problem was. It was at 75% during the install. After my debacle was over Ryan pointed out that it's in italics in the install manual.

GaleForce · 08-10-2016, 04:23 AM

A short video showing some sweet cars, 350z race car from Japan, iFest Rocket Bunny GTR, Mellow Yellow Amuse 370z and the GaleForce Varis 370z, in the Avenue Nissan booth at Importfest.

madwi · 08-10-2016, 05:38 AM

Car looks good as always Jason.

GaleForce · 08-10-2016, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwi

Car looks good as always Jason.

Thanks Scott

jchammond · 08-10-2016, 07:14 PM

Blue one looked the Best!

06-10-2016, 09:02 AM	#3440 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	I guess I'm the only one not using a RJM pedal LMBmikeZ and LMBmikeZ like this. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

06-10-2016, 11:09 AM	#3446 (permalink)
solidus Track Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 694 Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT Rep Power: 10080	If I had a do over I would've installed the RJM pedal after my clutch install. I installed just before I had the clutch done then made adjustments to the pedal. Forgot to mention it to the shop doing the install and they had a helluva time bleeding. I went to adjust it again after I got the car back and was getting clutch drag at 75%. Freaked out emailing Ryan and basically I bought it all the way back out and worked my way back. Had I installed it after the it would've been much less a hassel. I want that upgraded CMC next. BTW: If you do install with the clutch it has to be adjusted to Zero to bleed. That's what my problem was. It was at 75% during the install. After my debacle was over Ryan pointed out that it's in italics in the install manual. Last edited by solidus; 06-10-2016 at 11:20 AM.

08-10-2016, 04:23 AM	#3447 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51864	A short video showing some sweet cars, 350z race car from Japan, iFest Rocket Bunny GTR, Mellow Yellow Amuse 370z and the GaleForce Varis 370z, in the Avenue Nissan booth at Importfest. onzedge, JARblue, axmea? and 6 others like this. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

08-10-2016, 05:38 AM	#3448 (permalink)
madwi A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: West Michigan Posts: 31,400 Drives: Granma red Z Rep Power: 2684428	Car looks good as always Jason. Hotrodz and carlitos_370z like this.

08-10-2016, 07:14 PM	#3450 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 57 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684394	Blue one looked the Best! GaleForce likes this. __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

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