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Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs This makes me want to sell my GTM kit........... Originally Posted by The Dimer For cheap?

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Old 01-08-2013, 07:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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This makes me want to sell my GTM kit...........


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Originally Posted by The Dimer View Post
For cheap?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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god damn that turbo looks tastey man great job
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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sickkkkk can't wait to see it in the summer!
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not much for updates. I took yesterday off... was planning where I am going to mount the solenoid valve for the EVC-s, and the boost sensors. today I'll try to fab up some brackets. I'm also pulling out the turbo again. I just can't get a satisfactory fit between it and the charge pipe. It's really tight and the charge pipe was touching the oil take-off plate. I tore everything apart tried again with the same results. It's a little warmer today so I'll give it another try. I only have a couple of hours free to try. *fingers crossed*
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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This is the "hard part" of the install if you want to call it that. Room being the main factor.


However, you should not have to pull the turbo. If you loosen up the T-bolt clamps you can just roate the couplers and the two pipes till they are seated well. With the new couplers the friction is high, and they are stiff, so you have to muscle them on. Some engine oil takes care of this though. I know there is not much room to really put your hands in there. Removing the passenger side wheel will get you some extra room to get your hands in and turn/adjust things. Sounds like the first pipe from the turbo needs to go in a bit deeper in to the reducer coupler on the compressor. The 45* silicone reducer also needs to be slid all the way on to the compressor outlet.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance View Post
This is the "hard part" of the install if you want to call it that. Room being the main factor.


However, you should not have to pull the turbo. If you loosen up the T-bolt clamps you can just roate the couplers and the two pipes till they are seated well. With the new couplers the friction is high, and they are stiff, so you have to muscle them on. Some engine oil takes care of this though. I know there is not much room to really put your hands in there. Removing the passenger side wheel will get you some extra room to get your hands in and turn/adjust things. Sounds like the first pipe from the turbo needs to go in a bit deeper in to the reducer coupler on the compressor. The 45* silicone reducer also needs to be slid all the way on to the compressor outlet.
That's what I'm going to try. I pulled the turbo a couple of nights ago, pulled the pipe, double checked the coupler positions, put the pipe back in and got it situated nicely. Everything was good until I put the turbo back in. I'm going to do my best to muscle it tonight. I got side tracked this afternoon making brackets.

Honestly, the installation is very easy and the instructions are good. Like Sasha said before, if you can install HFC's then you can install this kit.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Gale,

When you figure out the location for your solenoid valve and boost sensors id love to see some pictures. I am going to be going through the same thing here before spring and was wondering the same thing.

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Old 01-09-2013, 04:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey Gale,

When you figure out the location for your solenoid valve and boost sensors id love to see some pictures. I am going to be going through the same thing here before spring and was wondering the same thing.

You must have been looking over my shoulder today. I made two brackets from 1/8" aluminum angle stock.

The two boost sending units will be mounted just behind the passenger headlight using the existing threaded location from the factory air box. The waste gate solenoid will be mounted on the driver side just outside of the clutch MC cover.

Bracket on the left is for the solenoid (upside down)

Bracket on the right is for the 2 boost sending units.


Custom brackets by J M Gale, on Flickr
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here is a quick picture of the brackets. The bracket to the rear is for the boost sending units. It needs to me polished. The front bracket is for the solenoid valve. To the right is the aluminum angle is used to make the brackets. Easy peasy


Brackets by J M Gale, on Flickr

Here is the solenoid mounted. Why did I bother polishing it?


HKS EVC-S by J M Gale, on Flickr
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I used the brake compartment to house everything. You can run your lines to the cabin through the windheild wiper motor compartment on to the fire wall gromet. I need to clean mine up a bit but I purchased one of those vaccum manifold kits and taped into the brake booster vaccum line and ran everything off that source. Keeps the engine bay clean as well! Your project is coming along nicely.

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Old 01-10-2013, 01:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Polished the brackets and everything, wow. haha. Any idea where you are going to mount the EVC in the car? Also does that particular one have to be tapped into the Throttle position sensor? I would assume it has to tap into the rpm wire right? Any chance you figured out the best place to do this? Havent had much of a chance to look through the service manual to much as of yet.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mitco39 View Post
Polished the brackets and everything, wow. haha. Any idea where you are going to mount the EVC in the car? Also does that particular one have to be tapped into the Throttle position sensor? I would assume it has to tap into the rpm wire right? Any chance you figured out the best place to do this? Havent had much of a chance to look through the service manual to much as of yet.
The EVC-s is the little brother to the EVC-6. The only thing you need to wire up is and Ignition source and ground. It must have flash storage to keep memory because it doesn't even require a constant +12v. I do have a PDF with wire locations for tach, VSS, etc. Let me know when you need it.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I got some "me" time in the garage tonight. I had another look at the intercooler piping, loosened everything up, dropped the turbo. After adjusting the pipe, I finally got the piping where I needed it. Now all I had to do was the hard part... getting the turbo to play nice with the silicone coupling... After wrestling with it for a few minutes I had one of these moments,


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyT8WXWq5ok


Success!!!!

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Old 01-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaleForce View Post
I got some "me" time in the garage tonight. I had another look at the intercooler piping, loosened everything up, dropped the turbo. After adjusting the pipe, I finally got the piping where I needed it. Now all I had to do was the hard part... getting the turbo to play nice with the silicone coupling... After wrestling with it for a few minutes I had one of these moments,


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyT8WXWq5ok


Success!!!!


IMG_2591 by J M Gale, on Flickr
Now you are ready to receive some BlowJob...
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaleForce View Post
I got some "me" time in the garage tonight. I had another look at the intercooler piping, loosened everything up, dropped the turbo. After adjusting the pipe, I finally got the piping where I needed it. Now all I had to do was the hard part... getting the turbo to play nice with the silicone coupling... After wrestling with it for a few minutes I had one of these moments,


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyT8WXWq5ok


Success!!!!


IMG_2591 by J M Gale, on Flickr
wow! Shiny i like shiny because i have no idea what all that stuff is
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Originally Posted by alcheng View Post
Now you are ready to receive some BlowJob...
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