ur either getting cams or Momentum headers?

Dry slump ?

no one got it yet ! hehe I will post some picture by next weekend

btw another important part that I must get is the damn 6MT driving shaft ! I found one online at 400$ delivered . not bad :)

the 7at driving shaft was about 2-3'' shorter once installed with the 6MT

another update !

I havent done much yesterday other than to bolt an OEM catback to avoid some complain about the noise ! and to look how the idle was.
As I expected, the engine was running extremely rich ! 10.25-10.5 AFR
on my first try I got it very close ! but I couldnt do much as I dont have the radiator connected yet ! I only did 2 start of about 30 sec

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...ure63350-a.jpg




Today I continued one of many projects going on !
Remember the car will be mostly used for the track as a lot of streetability of the car has been and will be removed.
There is still a lot to be done but its a start ! I finished the radiator mount earlier today ;)
disregard the oem intake since I wanted to have mostly everything stock for the first idle & low load tune.


http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...313-184417.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...313-184437.jpg

Small Update !:happydance:

The radiator setup has been completed a few days ago ! I will post a picture of the final result when ever I get the chance ;)
There is just a small issue that piss me off ... the HR ECU control differently the fan control module than the 370z ECU. which mean im stuck to order an aftermarket variable fan control unit.
Right now, a manual switch is installed ... :shakes head:

Today I installed the RJM clutch pedal assembly with the Wilwood master cylinder.
Wasnt too hard but there is still some adjustement to be done.
Remember the Z had a 7AT ? hehe

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...r-cylinder.jpg

Nice progress. When does testing start?

Well I have quite a few problem to deal with right now ....
- adding a variable fan control unit
- fixing the back-up light... I must have welded the wrong wire
- I must finish the ABS delete and plug that brake bias panel
- there wasnt any live tuning with cipher the last time I tried I hate doing it thru the Rom editor
The ilde isnt too bad . It was around 10 AFR !!!!
- doing a front top support for the bumber attachement since the oem component has been removed
Because of a V-mount type radiator setup which mean there will be a big hole in the hood at some point
- finishing the oil cooler lines with the Accumulator that will be temporaly inslled on the passenger side
(An enclosed box will be made later on this summer . I received my Tig welder today !!!;)
- mid-april is the installation of the anti fuel starvation unit
- once all of this has been completed I will do a road test but the car need a safety done first . There isnt any emission control here so im good for that part . The garage where I plan to go told me I didnt had to have the airbag in so as long as I dont have an exhaust leak its gonna be alright

ABS delete has been completed !!
Now I hope it wont leak....... lol



Edit; I bleeded everything and put pressure on the system . I have not seen any leak !! Yeah me...

Nice. When are you going to test and give review?

Its hard to tell because a few week ago I was expecting to be able to start driving by mid-april... right now its more around the end of april.

I need to re-order some stuff that I didnt think about..
Remember in the beginni g when I blew the engine I mentionned it should be done by June 2013 !!
Somehow its gonna probably be sonner !!!

Im leaving for the weekend tomorrow so im gonna try to get the Accumulator connected ;)

Woot ! Megan finaly decided to start with the OEM push-start switch !!
My bad though, because I discovered after going back in the wiring setup that one of the wire wasnt getting any power as it should have with the neutral-position switch the 6MT has, instead of the 7AT which probably is energized by the tranny itself.

Next problem now!!!
-Back-up light





Oh by the way the accumulator has been fully installed yesterday;)

this isnt the final setup ! dont worry the coolant reservoir will be relocated !
The oil cooler is not be installed at the usual spot because its soo big ! It was supposed to be my new oil cooler for the VHR but now it is overkill on the HR setup.. !!! I had to adjust with it !

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...-relocated.jpg



Accumulator installed temporaly.
There is a manual valve instaled on the right side of the center console ! ;)

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...-stavation.jpg



Not pretty but the project keep going.

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...ure64451-a.jpg

Wow!

LMFAO awesome, this has to be the most polarizing set of pics. Everything is gutted, and then I see the nav and stereo.

well the car will still be driven on the street for 2013 . Anyway its not like that 15lbs will make any difference , im not doing any pro-race.

a small warning to peoples that follow my thread to looks for advice and finding that I encourter.

if you think of doing an ABS Delete by removing everything related to it.
You might hit a wall when you try to get your RPM & Speedometer working.

It seem the comnation meter require to comunicate with the ABS module by the CAN system to get the speedometer to work.

Im not sure why my RPM gauge doesnt work right now.
The is a manual diagnostic that we can do on the combination meter to make sure if everything work or not . Mine does in fact work properly but the signal is cut between the ECU and the RPM gauge which is functionnal.


oh... the damn Wilwood cluth master cylinder is leaking ... FML

(THe RPM does work in Uprev but the problem is the combination meter that fail to receive proper signal)
tomorrow im gonna try to connect back the ABS module and test again.

Its confirmed . If we want to do an abs delete we must rewires the abs connector somehow since we need the abs module to get the speedometer working.

So now my 2 biggest problem is to fix the cluth master cylinder leak and the RPM to work. Im still scraching my head why it doesnt work..
My big guess is a different CAN protocol. Or one of the vvel component is needed somehow...

Fantastic journal. It read more like a story. Keep up the great work!

I havent done much lately, but I get closer to the end everytime I work on Megan !

today while I had some free time I made a small extention for the clutch master cylinder rod since the Wilwood MC come with a spacer needed to bolt on the clutch pedal assembly.

so I started the quick lathe project of doing that extention & doing the thread in/out

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...3-173248-1.jpg

Now I have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch ! yeah me ! hehe

however, I have a slight problem with my variable fan control since the temp probe isnt great, I will be getting the proper trigger sensor that will be more acurate but the problem is, its backordered :shakes head:

always incredible **** here ... great job. :tup:

Great work

2X! :tup: I always like reading threads like this. :tup:

My CAI will probably be on sale very soon ;)

Im unable to re-install them since my new radiator setup is in the way !!

To have the full advantage of them, your best bet is to have your TB ported the way I did and ofcourse a Tune will be required.

another big reason why I didnt try to make the CAI to fit is Im going with another setup :)

Custom 3" right?

How did you bore your throttle bodies for it?

Yup, mandrel bent start at 3'' that goes to a reducer down to 63.5mm for the MAF sensor then after, it gets streched to 2 3/4'' to the Throttle body.

There is a long straight after the bent that goes up to the TB and MAF sensor to help keeping a laminar flow and not turbulent like what I have seen on some aftermarket CAI.

There is ofcourse cutting to do and bending tabs. simiar to when you install the Stillen Ver3 CAI.
It wasnt made for look, the black paint that I sprayed on it 2 years ago is all scrached over.
there isnt any bracket support since 2x Tie-wrap was good enough with rubber pads to avoid rubbing. ( I used cutted hose as pads)
I cant provide any PCV tubing since I had to reuse my original part for the OEM intake.
http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...4-img-1685.jpg


The TB is best to be ported to 62.5mm as its 60mm from the factory.
I recommend to do the half shaft cut and an arrow edge on the butterfly plate.
http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...ure42412-a.jpg

im not expecting to sell the CAI anytime soon, because of the not prettyness and the work involved to make thing run correcty. (tuning)
as I was saying in the beginning was that with similar mods on the same dyno I had around 12whp more than any 6mt/7at
so beleive me or not, im not being a saleman but a normal guy who does his DIY jobs ;)

My asking price for the CAI is 600$ which doesnt include shipping & paypal fee
keep in mind, the CAI as it is shown on the picture costed me 1200$ to be made.

I could sell the whole setup of CAI + ported TB for 1600$ (shipping&paypal fee not included)

How much for the bored TBs?

i woud prefer to sell them as a kit since they compete each other.
My asking price on the TBs alone is 1200$

i finally caught up with your build. I appreciate all of your help thru PM. Your thread's awesome. I appreciate you taking the effort to put all the pics up and share with everyone here. The engine taken apart is crazy! I wish I could have the experience to do so someday. I'm sure I'll have to rebuild it one day and I'll check in with you and others what to change.

Finally got the M370 intake manifold. A little bumped I spent the money for less headache, i'm usually a DIY make it myself type of guy but I'm trying to get my car tuned in 2 weeks time so I didn't wanna take my chances.

I skipped a couple of pages on your journal, did you ever do a fuel starvation fix for your car?

Thank you ;)
I dont mind helping peoples when they PM me for some issues or advice. I can get in developped details sometimes !

Un-assemble the engine isnt complicated, as far as putting it back together can be a little tricky sometimes but if you do follow each step in the FSM. There shouldnt have much problem. But installing new cam can be a long job to ajuste everthing . It was a really challenging winter project . The car has been safety inspected yesterday and plated .

The idle is 95% perfect . Crusing and low load is half way there ;)
I have a 4day off so more tuning tomorrow ;)

Buying the real deal m370z from motordyne was definatly a good call if you didnt want some headache at modding yourself an HR intake manifold

To answer your last question. The parts was shipped last week. Im expecting to receive the package today or tomorrow ;) once im done with the street tuning that fuel starvation fix unit will be the next step

big update !!!!

The oem RPM Cluster is now WORKING !

Video and picture to prove it !

Uprev detect the original 370z ECU but the engine is running on the HR ECU and when flashing the ecu , it only flash only the HR ECU and not the VHR .

The RPM cluster work on the CAN network, the option to make it to work with the HR ecu was not possible because they arent on the same *protocol* .
Just an exemple for those that doesnt understand that term is;
- you remember your old VHS reader ? you could select it to play on channel 3 or 4 ? Well the CAN comunication work similar to this.

I came up with the idea of hooking back the VHR Ecu back for the RPM cluster a week ago while I was sick in bed for a couple days !

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...cu-not-vhr.jpg

Good job! :tup:

Nice! So you're running both ECUs? HR ECU for the main engine sensor/control stuff, VHR ECU for the rest of the car to hook up IPDM and BCM and all that jazz?

The only issue I had without the vhr ecu was the rpm cluster not working

After a road test my water temp gauge is not working properly now.(EDIT ; more to follow on this , suspecting air trapped in the system)Other that, all the light I have in the dash is due to not having the abs system, VDC, immobilization system, check engine flicking between the hr & vhr ecu code., everything else was working fine

edit; actualy you need the ABS module to keep the speedometer working , only half of the assembly still remain installed where it was.I havent look if it was possible to do a by-pass , im sure it could work.

Sad Update!

Unfortunatly Megan Ver. 2 is put on hold for 2013.
Due to some personnal issue (losing the wife) and all the payment that needs to be done. I cant afford doing any more mods to Megan.

I received some parts not long ago that still need to be installed once I kick myself in the butt to actualy do it. but this is.
All track day has been canceled
All Time Attack also cancelled

on top of that the 5th gear is grinding so bad !

Sorry to hear of the issues. I know military life is hard on the family... good luck brother!

GL man, hope things work out for the best.

That's a bummer, good luck!

Don't know what to say, other than I feel bad for you. Hope everything works out. Keep your chin up. ;)

tonight I wanted to put the blown engine on the stand and look at those nice shorty header , barely used ! ( Momentum header )

Soon to be cut and modified !!! hehe well in a few months

http://www.the370z.com/members/megan...627-205830.jpg

Teaser !
 

I know I said the built was on Hold for a while, but I got told that the new cams/piston are now ready, Im gonna have to wait a couple months before I can pull the trigger on this.

This will be a reality without sponsor ! :shakes head:


Teaser;