Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

wstar

I feel your pain! Mine took forever.

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Journal thread / Car setup details

Chuck33079

That's three hours you could have spent making endlinks. Just sayin. I heard a clunk under the car today. That means you're on the clock.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Sh0velMan

I'm strapped on R&D funds until May. I'll put together a parts list, get a price, you paypal it to me and I'll buy the stuff and build them.

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Chuck33079

You dodged a bullet. I threw it up on the lift and it was my imagination. That bought you time. Still, go ahead and get me that parts list and I'll take a look.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Sh0velMan

KK.


Since you have the same bars as me, it'll be easy to make the alignment perfect. I think you'll like what I come up with.

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Sh0velMan

Not a lot of "progress" to show...

Working on trimming down the dash harness, gotta extend and adapt all the various switchgear connections to put them into my own enclosure with simple/compact switches and buttons rather than the bulky OEM stuff.

Also mulling over how to re-locate my chair a bit.

Oh, and I am thinking about a Stillen front lip to seal to a splitter. Dunno tho, still on the fence.

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Sh0velMan

So I F-ed up and cut the harness for the multi-switch stalks out.

Whoops.


So Now I have to wire in replacement switchgear for the Headlights and Wipers. Because this car is so heavily CAN-bus-driven (compared to cars I've worked on in the past, though it holds not a candle to, say, a Benz) I was initially concerned that this would create a problem for me, but alas, it's super simple.

Attached below are sloppily annotated wiring diagrams.

Three position switches (I am thinking some boss looking rocker switches) will be used for both solutions.

For the wipers, it will be setup like this:
1) Off
2) Low Speed Circuit
3) High Speed Circuit

For the headlights, I want to try
1) Off
2) Low Beams (HID)
3) Low AND High Beams

I figure, if I am using the headlights at all, it's because I am on the track in the dark. If that's the case, and I feel the need for high beams, why not turn every stinkin light on that I can? It looks to me like they are individually fused, so I just need to be sure the supply to the battery (which is like 6 inches from the relays in question) is of sufficient gauge to handle the increased (almost doubled) current draw, and if not, replace it with heavier gauge.

Wipers:


Headlamps:

Attached Images

	wipers.JPG (89.0 KB, 125 views)
	headlamp.JPG (96.8 KB, 124 views)

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Mike

cool, can't wait to see how it works.

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Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

Sh0velMan

I am also working on a cheap/easy treatment for the steering column that eliminates ~10 lbs and cleans up/secures the steering linkages.

More info on that once I am further along.

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wstar

^ Nice, in for details!

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Journal thread / Car setup details

Sh0velMan

Here are various photos and info.

Full Assembly:

Snap rings on both ends. One bearing pressed into the steel housing closest to the steering wheel. The other pressed into the aluminum housing and secured with a snap ring.








Snap rings removed and shaft assembly removed from the two housings. A lot of pulling with the pullers and hammer-based encouragement needed to get this far. Puller is mounted up here as I am pulling the steering lock collar off.



And here is the removed shaft. Need to find heim joints that fit these diameters. I am fairly sure I'm going to need to get the fat end turned at a machine shop to bring it down to 1" (minus a few thousandths for clearance) as heim joints larger than 1" seem to be pretty damned rare.


You also need to remove a bracket from the top of the column assembly. This is the bracket that the instrument cluster attaches to. It's fixed to the steel half of the assembly, the part that is closest to the wheel.

More info on that in the next post...

It appears that the steering shaft telescopes in and out on splines. I believe this is how they accommodate the telescoping steering wheel adjustment. I plan to fix this in place using sway bar lock rings. Simple and effective. They'll be used to fix the shaft with the heim joints as well so that it cannot move in the Z axis at all.

Attached Images

	WP_20140416_17_16_50_Pro.jpg (229.4 KB, 87 views)
	WP_20140416_17_17_00_Pro.jpg (279.9 KB, 83 views)
	WP_20140416_17_17_08_Pro.jpg (272.9 KB, 87 views)
	WP_20140416_18_10_14_Pro.jpg (275.1 KB, 86 views)
	WP_20140416_18_33_23_Pro.jpg (263.6 KB, 73 views)

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Sh0velMan

So for mounting the instrument cluster, it's pretty straightforward.

There will be a flat plate, approximately 7" wide by 8-10" long (length TBD based on how things line up).

This plate will connect to the factory crash bar in the same manner that the stock steering column assembly did (from below with two large nuts).

Attached to this plate from below will be the two heim joints supporting the steering column. They'll pass through the plate and be secured with nuts and washers from above and below. This will allow adjustment of the shaft's mounted height via adjusting the heim joints higher or lower on their threads.

Attached to the rearward-most edge of the plate (closest to the driver) will be the bracket pictured here. The flat plane (circled in red) will be flush with the top of the plate, the small fingers protruding will help align the bracket to be true with the end of the plate.






The instrument panel then mounts to the top of it as it did in the original column.

Attached Images

	bracket_annotated_1.JPG (116.5 KB, 112 views)
	WP_20140416_19_18_48_Pro.jpg (248.8 KB, 116 views)
	WP_20140416_19_19_38_Pro.jpg (220.3 KB, 125 views)

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