wstar's Journal

wstar · 07-21-2013, 08:40 PM

So back on the teardown stuff: of course I should have anticipated that UpRev Pro-tuners apparently aren't allowed to do NATS-disable on a rom file remotely. I do want to kill the related wiring that I can before the car moves again, though. Has anyone run with just the Fobgina still active and the rest of the fob sensors (e.g. the ones behind the door, passenger under dash, center console, trunk area, etc) all removed? Can you still open/start the car? Is it impossible to unlock the trunk? I could leave just the Fobgina for now and that would be pretty easy to finish removing later after it's been driven somewhere for NATS disable.

SPOHN · 07-21-2013, 08:46 PM

I just run the keyfob in the fobgina only. All sensors and wiring are gone. Along with the antenna that runs it all under the dash.

The Nats will be deleted upon my next tune.

wstar · 07-21-2013, 09:01 PM

Ok, sounds like a plan then. Thanks

carlitos_370z · 07-22-2013, 08:59 AM

awesome build bro!!!!

VoBoy · 07-22-2013, 09:03 AM

Send a couple ROM files you want with NATS disabled and any Uprev tuner would do it for you free of charge (if you ask nicely I think). I had to get it disabled when that unit died on me for some reason. Uprev would even do it for you.

wstar · 08-01-2013, 11:59 PM

I did get NATS disabled remotely by someone. It didn't do all the magic I hoped it would do, but I guess it's still nice to have one less thing that can get screwed up on the car. I still have the fobgina, and it still appears to be necessary to put the key in there to turn on the ignition and start the engine with the stock button. Who knows if maybe *anyone*'s key does that now, though.

Re: basic ignition, it sounds like you *could* in theory get rid of the keyfob sensor at that point, but only if you did some custom wiring to your own on/start buttons and ditched the stock one (because the BCM controls the engine start button, and NATS disable is just the ECU - the BCM still cares about they keyfob if you wanna operate that switch...).

I was also hoping it would allow me to unplug and remove the steering lock unit (which is currently disabled with the fuse-pull hack anyways), but it doesn't do that either. If I unplug the steering lock unit I get a little Key icon warning light on the gauges and it refuses to turn on the ignition.

---

Also, I had my first major screwup with the unwiring of the car. When I was removing a bunch of little modules from under the dash (e.g. fob sensors, TPMS receiver), I removed one too many little black boxes. I didn't realize until a couple of days later during a test-drive what went wrong. One of those little black boxes under the passenger dash is the power steering controller

I still have tails on the box itself and on the various places it was wired to, but I'll have to run new lengths of wire to hook it back up. Could've been much worse I guess, and everything else has gone pretty smooth so far. Still have days of work ahead of me to get the harness stuff all wrapped back up nicely.

Megan370z · 08-02-2013, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Re: basic ignition, it sounds like you *could* in theory get rid of the keyfob sensor at that point, but only if you did some custom wiring to your own on/start buttons and ditched the stock one (because the BCM controls the engine start button, and NATS disable is just the ECU - the BCM still cares about they keyfob if you wanna operate that switch...).
.

Soo after a couple hours in the garage, I managed to start the car without the need of the key at all..

I managed to give power to some auxiliary equipment like the rpm/speedo cluster. I jacked the car to see if the speedometer work. It did !. Im sure the rpm would work to but I had to remove the vhr ecu because it drained .y battery .. I must install a switch for this which will be done this weekend !

So anyway yes some auxiliary has power . The low/high bean work but not the flasher.
My center console does lid up but no power to the radio/nav yet.

All this require some by pass wire ..this setup needs a minimun of 4 wires . And the NATS disabled ofcourse.

Im gonna post a video later on about how it look like right now

edit;

wstar · 08-03-2013, 08:25 AM

Awesome work

wstar · 08-05-2013, 01:45 AM

UpRev Map-switching without the stock steering wheel stuff: I've figured out a solution for this, where you can just mount two pushbuttons wherever you want. One acts as Coast/Set, the other as Cancel, so you hold one and input the map number on the other as before. It just needs 3 resistors wired up to the 2 pushbuttons a certain way, and then in the end you hook that up to two pins on the main ECM.

The pins on the ECM are the Sky Blue + Yellow wires which are on pins 101 and 108 of connector M107 (which, of the 3 big connectors on the ECM, is the one that's rearmost on the car and runs to the main wiring harness under the dash, as opposed to the other two that run straight over into the engine bay).

I'll post up a circuit diagram and whatnot once I've actually tested it and I know I'm not leading people down some horrible path of breakage. Might be sometime later this week.

I'm also looking at some 7AT hacks, but I don't have anything to report from experiments yet, just ideas from staring at wiring diagrams. The first one on my priority list is I'm thinking it's possible to put a hard toggle switch on the dash that switches between the normal behavior and "D is always M". Meaning when you move the lever into D, the car goes into M-mode and the paddle shifters are always good to go (although obviously you won't be able to use +/- controls on the floor stick until you move it over into the actual M position).

The rationale here is that it's really easy to accidentally bump the stick sideways with your hand/arm and drop out of M into D, which means you lose your current gearing because it auto-upshifts for you almost immediately, etc. It's happened to me a few times, and I just don't want that to happen again ever. I could just hardwire the D-mode away permanently, but I figure it might be nice to at least have a toggle switch somewhere to revert to true D-mode.

VoBoy · 08-07-2013, 09:19 AM

^- 6MT swap - Problem solved!

Megan370z · 08-07-2013, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VoBoy

^- 6MT swap - Problem solved!

really ?

6MT arent perfect either.

trolling with 19post....

wstar · 08-07-2013, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VoBoy

^- 6MT swap - Problem solved!

Heresy!

But on a more serious note, I still plan to someday swap in an LS-series engine whenever I finally destroy this VQ, and when that happens I'll undoubtedly have to go with a T-56 manual from GM for sanity's sake. Making the 7AT work without the stock ECU/BCM/Meters/Sensors would be a nightmare if it's possible at all, and the aftermarket sequential/DCT options are just way too expensive.

Maybe the 'vette has a nice paddle-shift auto option that could theoretically work, but even then it's probably more expensive, and probably doesn't work out with a minimal harness and a race ECU or whatever. We'll see what happens when I get there, but I'm mostly just bracing for having to accept a manual again at that point. By then I'll probably have the rest of driving down pretty well though, so I won't mind having to focus on heel-toe skill for a while.

wstar · 08-07-2013, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megan370z

trolling with 19post....

It's ok, I know him from track events

. He's a 350 guy mostly so he's not native to these forums!

theDreamer · 08-07-2013, 11:48 AM

If you wait long enough, the new vette motor & trans will have SRM feature for the manual so you can skip the heal toe. Not sure yet on how the new auto will fair on the track though that they are producing.

VoBoy · 08-13-2013, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Heresy!

But on a more serious note, I still plan to someday swap in an LS-series engine whenever I finally destroy this VQ, and when that happens I'll undoubtedly have to go with a T-56 manual from GM for sanity's sake. Making the 7AT work without the stock ECU/BCM/Meters/Sensors would be a nightmare if it's possible at all, and the aftermarket sequential/DCT options are just way too expensive.

Maybe the 'vette has a nice paddle-shift auto option that could theoretically work, but even then it's probably more expensive, and probably doesn't work out with a minimal harness and a race ECU or whatever. We'll see what happens when I get there, but I'm mostly just bracing for having to accept a manual again at that point. By then I'll probably have the rest of driving down pretty well though, so I won't mind having to focus on heel-toe skill for a while.

LS swap is Heresy! Lolj you'd demolish everything on the track with that swap.

07-21-2013, 08:40 PM	#601 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	So back on the teardown stuff: of course I should have anticipated that UpRev Pro-tuners apparently aren't allowed to do NATS-disable on a rom file remotely. I do want to kill the related wiring that I can before the car moves again, though. Has anyone run with just the Fobgina still active and the rest of the fob sensors (e.g. the ones behind the door, passenger under dash, center console, trunk area, etc) all removed? Can you still open/start the car? Is it impossible to unlock the trunk? I could leave just the Fobgina for now and that would be pretty easy to finish removing later after it's been driven somewhere for NATS disable. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-21-2013, 08:46 PM	#602 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	I just run the keyfob in the fobgina only. All sensors and wiring are gone. Along with the antenna that runs it all under the dash. The Nats will be deleted upon my next tune. __________________

07-21-2013, 09:01 PM	#603 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Ok, sounds like a plan then. Thanks __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-01-2013, 11:59 PM	#606 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I did get NATS disabled remotely by someone. It didn't do all the magic I hoped it would do, but I guess it's still nice to have one less thing that can get screwed up on the car. I still have the fobgina, and it still appears to be necessary to put the key in there to turn on the ignition and start the engine with the stock button. Who knows if maybe anyone's key does that now, though. Re: basic ignition, it sounds like you could in theory get rid of the keyfob sensor at that point, but only if you did some custom wiring to your own on/start buttons and ditched the stock one (because the BCM controls the engine start button, and NATS disable is just the ECU - the BCM still cares about they keyfob if you wanna operate that switch...). I was also hoping it would allow me to unplug and remove the steering lock unit (which is currently disabled with the fuse-pull hack anyways), but it doesn't do that either. If I unplug the steering lock unit I get a little Key icon warning light on the gauges and it refuses to turn on the ignition. --- Also, I had my first major screwup with the unwiring of the car. When I was removing a bunch of little modules from under the dash (e.g. fob sensors, TPMS receiver), I removed one too many little black boxes. I didn't realize until a couple of days later during a test-drive what went wrong. One of those little black boxes under the passenger dash is the power steering controller I still have tails on the box itself and on the various places it was wired to, but I'll have to run new lengths of wire to hook it back up. Could've been much worse I guess, and everything else has gone pretty smooth so far. Still have days of work ahead of me to get the harness stuff all wrapped back up nicely. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

08-03-2013, 08:25 AM	#608 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Awesome work __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-22-2013, 08:59 AM	#604 (permalink)
carlitos_370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 7,157 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z SP M6 Rep Power: 7585	awesome build bro!!!!

07-22-2013, 09:03 AM	#605 (permalink)
VoBoy Base Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago/Houston Posts: 37 Drives: 06 350z Rep Power: 16	Send a couple ROM files you want with NATS disabled and any Uprev tuner would do it for you free of charge (if you ask nicely I think). I had to get it disabled when that unit died on me for some reason. Uprev would even do it for you.

08-05-2013, 01:45 AM	#609 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	UpRev Map-switching without the stock steering wheel stuff: I've figured out a solution for this, where you can just mount two pushbuttons wherever you want. One acts as Coast/Set, the other as Cancel, so you hold one and input the map number on the other as before. It just needs 3 resistors wired up to the 2 pushbuttons a certain way, and then in the end you hook that up to two pins on the main ECM. The pins on the ECM are the Sky Blue + Yellow wires which are on pins 101 and 108 of connector M107 (which, of the 3 big connectors on the ECM, is the one that's rearmost on the car and runs to the main wiring harness under the dash, as opposed to the other two that run straight over into the engine bay). I'll post up a circuit diagram and whatnot once I've actually tested it and I know I'm not leading people down some horrible path of breakage. Might be sometime later this week. I'm also looking at some 7AT hacks, but I don't have anything to report from experiments yet, just ideas from staring at wiring diagrams. The first one on my priority list is I'm thinking it's possible to put a hard toggle switch on the dash that switches between the normal behavior and "D is always M". Meaning when you move the lever into D, the car goes into M-mode and the paddle shifters are always good to go (although obviously you won't be able to use +/- controls on the floor stick until you move it over into the actual M position). The rationale here is that it's really easy to accidentally bump the stick sideways with your hand/arm and drop out of M into D, which means you lose your current gearing because it auto-upshifts for you almost immediately, etc. It's happened to me a few times, and I just don't want that to happen again ever. I could just hardwire the D-mode away permanently, but I figure it might be nice to at least have a toggle switch somewhere to revert to true D-mode. Megan370z likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 08-05-2013 at 08:24 AM.

08-07-2013, 09:19 AM	#610 (permalink)
VoBoy Base Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago/Houston Posts: 37 Drives: 06 350z Rep Power: 16	^- 6MT swap - Problem solved!

08-07-2013, 11:48 AM	#614 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	If you wait long enough, the new vette motor & trans will have SRM feature for the manual so you can skip the heal toe. Not sure yet on how the new auto will fair on the track though that they are producing. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

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