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Originally Posted by Ghostvette I need that tool to do threaded inserts. Who makes it? Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumat.../dp/B01JBO58FM
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 5,698
Drives: 15 Magma Red 6MT
Rep Power: 2684378 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
__________________
2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
These pictures are from last week. Got busy and didn't post them here. I better post them now or else it will not happen.
Picked up my throttle bodies and water merge from the welder. The throttle bodies are Chinese aluminum so welds don't look the best. Worked on putting the car back together with lines. Took a bit longer than anticipated going through and checking all the nuts and bolts. Putting the intake on was HARD. The rubber made rings on the clamps made it 10x harder. Started on plumbing the A2W lines. I'm starting with the difficult part, or so I think it will be? I had originally thought I could get 1" lines working for everything. That was a flop. 1" Inside Diameter means that the Outside Diameter was 1 1/4" and that was too large when trying to get the bumper on. I had to re work the strategy to use 1/2" ID line which has an OD of 3/4. The line is WAY easier to work with and the bumper can go on too. The smaller 1/2 ID shouldn't matter because the most restrictive part of the line is 3/4". Thankfully plumbing supplies are cheap vs all the AN fittings. Oh, the 90deg brass fitting will not be removed. I will leave that in and change the size from 3/4 to 1" at a 90deg. Reason for that is because I would have to remove the vband clamps which were a pain in the a$$. NOPE. not removing that. On a side note... I started a new job. That means I can't really buy anything new for a while. Looks like I will be working everything I can until paychecks flow normal. ROUND TWO... SMALLER LINES: Last edited by gbrettin; 10-04-2021 at 10:29 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Drive shaft has made its arrival. It looks like a beefy driveshaft and it will mate to the OE pinion flange. I was surprised to find out that Drivetrain Industries didn't make the pinion flange... but it doesn't really matter. I gave them the measurements and they did everything else.
I was able to get a little further on the water lines. Between the pump I used -16 fragola line because I had the line, I ordered the two 90deg fittings. As always... 1"ID hose will be used for the return line. As you can see the line is huge. I just zip tied the line up so it would relax into that position. Mounts will need to be installed. The mounts will happen at the same time as the 3/4ID sending line. Return line from the water merge and swirl pot was plumbed with a brass 1" barb to a 90deg Fragola push to lock -16, which is essentially a barb fitting to AN. It worked! Getting plumbing from the bottom of the swirl pot to the back of the car is going to be difficult. I'm still looking at fitting options. I'm just going to plumb the 1" line to the area to see what path works the best. I'll likely run near the engine.... BUT, I think I might want to use some -16 fragola line for that due to heat and oil concerns. We'll see. If you haven't noticed, all the sending line will be 3/4" and all return line will be 1". I think that this will help keep the system pressurized better. Maybe it will not... but.. this is what's happening. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-08-2021 at 10:06 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
An attempt was made to mount the drive shaft. To my surprise, incorrect measurements were given to the drive shaft company. 100% my fault and I have no idea why I recorded the wrong measurement because it was done multiple times by myself and one other person. I'd rather not have any smart *** comments about this one... It's raw because the driveshaft cost 820.00. Locally there is a driveshaft company that gave a rough quote of 350 to cut the ends off and put a new aluminum 3.5" tube on. I ate the loss and dropped off the drive shaft.
In other news, I attached the pressure side hose to the pump. I found a Mishimoto -16 orb to 3/4 barb fitting that threaded into the Davies Craig pump. 3/4"ID line was ran and I steered clear of the engine bay (heat). The line comes up and routes through the fender area out near the headlight. Return side, a buddy gave me some -16 fragola hose to hook into a 180deg off the swirl pot. Nothing else fits off the swirl pot other than that... well... I have some ideas but it would be more fabrication that I don't want to do. anyway... The fragola line WILL run right near the engine and up pipes. On order is a -16 pushlock fitting for the rear radiator. I didn't get pictures but I used threaded inserts and have the hose zip tied and secured (mostly) under the car. THAT will be the end of the fitting and hose nightmare. Check out the IG video of the flow. You know... I haven't made a YouTube video in a long while. I probably should do another video sometime soon. I love looking at the analytics on my videos . My retention rate is a whole 2-3min for people and then... there's a couple people that actually watch the whole thing. I don't blame them for bailing after 2-3min... so much better stuff out there. Enjoy the 4 odd angled pictures. The video clips sum everything up way better, two 1min clips. https://www.instagram.com/p/CU1Nveys..._web_copy_link |
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Couple days ago I worked on getting the A2W lines wrapped up. All the lines are now secure where they need to go and I hooked the last Fragola line up. A brass barb connector was added between the Fragola line and the plastic line, which was a complete b1tch getting on.
There is only one joint between the swirl pot and line and the Fragola line running back. I opted to save that for a different day because that will be just as hard as the other coupler. Hose clamps will needed to be added at every joint, for safety and piece of mind. 400 dollars resolved the drive shaft issue. I now have a 1200 drive shaft. Yeah... not a lot to say about that other than I needed a drive shaft. The good news is that it fits perfectly now. The pinion flange has a surface that mates up the shaft perfect. The yolk goes in a perfect amount. It doesn't look like I needed to notch the transmission brace, but it is substantially stronger after adding the box material. Last picture made it worth while spraying the underside VHT Rollcage black worth it. Looks like a new car... well, it really is at this point. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Finished all the air to water plumbing! Cinched down every joint and went crazy with zip ties (they are cheap). Plugged in more sensors... What can I say, it was a low hanging fruit kind of day.
Attempted to put in bolts for the drive shaft but the OEM bolts were too large. No worries. I drilled it out and made it work. The fit is very snug around the bolts now. Blue locktite was added... I don't trust spinning things with out that. All the chassis bracing has been put back on, thankfully I didn't lose the bolts. I was able to put the water lines under some of the bracing for extra protection. I'm going to get some SPL arms to remove the rear springs in the car. Rear coil overs, Import Drag Solutions, will replace the OE shocks... They were old anyway. Last edited by gbrettin; 10-27-2021 at 11:41 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Track Member
![]() Join Date: May 2017
Location: Cayman Islands
Posts: 685
Drives: 2010 370Z
Rep Power: 57456 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You have more ambition than one man should have
![]() Awesome progress, cant wait to see it running
__________________
2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap Last edited by sirnixalot; 10-27-2021 at 11:58 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I'm really humbled by some of the attention it has received lately. The hard work seems to have caught attention of a few high end automotive places. I shared a few pictures on FB and the group didn't devolve into LS SWAPS SUCK. My intentions with this project was to show what a swap entails for the 370z platform. During that process I've been enjoying all the feedback of "that looks good" to "Hey man, you should re-do that because XYZ". Heck, I'm going on a pod cast tonight to talk about my car and other poor life choices.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 31,410
Drives: Granma red Z
Rep Power: 2684430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: NW, AZ
Posts: 9,330
Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo
Rep Power: 2684386 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That's because his is not running, LMAO!
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
__________________
Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel|3GsCustoms|Z1|Wavetrac|Hotchkis|Whiteline |Blitz|Fortune Auto 500|Fujimura|SPL|H&R|TK|TWM|RPM Rollbar|Sparco|Next Level Performance|TrackSpec|AeroFlow Dynamics|Pioneer| |
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well, here's the podcast folks. I get so wound up I can't talk correctly.
https://open.spotify.com/episode/7LK...urce=copy-link Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
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#15 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 2,304
Drives: Tricycle
Rep Power: 589452 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've been taking a break from my car. I wanted to put a recap video together because the last video I did was in May. It's not a good video document if they never come out. lol
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