Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Ordered -10 hose, -10 orb, -10 straight connect. and -10 90deg connect for my oil catch can as well as the last fitting for the coolant system. ... 250 bucks later ... I should be able to complete the cooling system and the catch system. Luckly I only need a few bits for the fuel system and oil system, Fragola/Earls must own an empire!

Hopefully the fittings get here tomorrow... Although, I doubt it.

I ended up going to Alro, metal company, to pick up aluminum tubing. Just incase I want to tack some aluminum AN bungs in and make some hard line. It doesn't look like I will. But.... Options, ya know. Things clearly change quickly.

So what's next.... The radiator needs the lower mount. Previously, aluminum 1.5" angle was cut to length of the aluminum core support. Mounting holes need to be drilled and a riv-nut will be used on aluminum angle. Come to think of it, I could have used a riv-nut on the steel upper, but I was in weld mode and just tacked a nut into the steel.

Aluminum 1.5" angle will be tacked on toe the lower aluminum core support. This might be my first experience into TIG welding aluminum. (prepare for a train wreck). yes, I will practice first on similar aluminum. Also, by buddy will be there to help.

Below is the GIGANTIC -20 line. best spot is right under the plastic air duct on the bumper. Turns out there is enough room for it. I had to test fit and cut the tubing a few times. Let me tell you why... other than needing it to fit. 5' of -20 is 90 bucks. Let that sink in for a moment. SOooooOOooooo....... I was kicking my own *** after Rusty said "use some hard line". 4' of aluminum 1 3/4 was 7 dollars and a -20 weldable bung is 12 dollars.

The more you know.... Please God, I hope someone reads this and uses this slice of information.

Rusty

Tig welding aluminum. The weld area has to be clean. Wipe the area down with alcohol at least a half inch back. And then wire brush the chit out of the areas to be welded.

Which color banded tungsten you going to use?

Need to form a nice round ball on the end of the tungsten. If I remember right. DC straight will do it. If it's a narrow bead. A taper tungsten with a flat point will work.

At the end of the weld. Move the tungsten off center of the weld puddle to prevent the puddle center from getting a crack in it before you stop the arc.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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gbrettin

I can't answer any of your questions at this time. I literally know nothing about TIG. I'll report back.

10-4 on clean surface.

Rusty

Tig welding is like brazing. Instead of a torch with a gas flame. You have an electric arc.

Get your arc started, and heat up the end of the rod by holding it just outside of the arc. Then you can dip the rod in. When you're good. The bead will look like dimes. Mine look like nickles.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html