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IG@gbrettin Tick Performance valley pan installed. No filter required. Let the billet-ness overwhelm you mind ------------------------ Pulled the plenum off my car last night in preparation for a few things.
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Portage, MI
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Drives: Tricycle
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IG@gbrettin
Tick Performance valley pan installed. No filter required. Let the billet-ness overwhelm you mind ------------------------ Pulled the plenum off my car last night in preparation for a few things. 1. I wanted to get the new valley pan on (made a quick video of that. Will post later). 2. I can work on my down pipes with out a bunch of obstacles in my way. 3. The engine has to be removed for the oil pan installation (hopefully happens soon...) 4. The heads need to be drilled and tapped. I stripped off a bunch of the plenum bolts. Yup, that really happened. The bolts will be changed from M6 to M8 so that there is more bite putting them in. The plenum is a HUGE pain in the azz because they are not connected in anyway. A cross over needs to be added in somewhere so maybe I will cut the back side of the plenum and join it there. I really want a duel plenum, but I question this turd sometimes. Reminder why the valley pan was swapped. The back side of the LS has a pressure sensor in valley pan. ICT did not have the oil sensor location so I upgraded. I paid a bit more for the Tick Performance because it's all billet but figured it would be a really nice piece to have because the plenum sits up so high, making the pan visible. The billet valley pan also goes with the aluminum, billet and semi gloss black theme I have going. Side note. The Internet was kind enough to let me know when I make mistakes. I should have covered the backside of the turbo up when I was grinding my car. Metal shavings went into the exhaust housing. These are not the endgame turbos for my build but they still need to get me down the road. SO... I need to disassemble the turbo and clean that out. The only redeeming factor is that it was the exhaust housing. I'm still going to break it down. I may even send it out to Turbonetics. We'll see after I break it down. I HATE HATE HATE making stupid mistakes like that. Anyway, I'm being completely transparent with my build. Hopefully my burning stupidity can help someone else. Or at least someone can laugh at my expense? This one really frustrated me though and I know better. Edit - There was talk about notching the car. Look for the black marker lines over the up-pipes. I didn't end up going that route obviously. I just wanted to explain why that's there. Onto the pictures: Last edited by gbrettin; 07-23-2020 at 11:12 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky
Age: 70
Posts: 35,579
Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M
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Use Helicoils in your heads. Lock tite them in. This way, you have steel on steel contact for your bolts. Not steel and aluminum. You'll thank me later.
Best thing to do is use Helicoils in all of the aluminum bolt holes. Less chance of stripping out. I did this a lot at Elliott.
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
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