Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

sirnixalot · 09-15-2019, 02:28 PM

No project is complete without breaking out the sawzall

gbrettin · 09-20-2019, 02:26 PM

Started to pick items off the false firewall for removal. Further inspection revealed that there's a bit of surface rust. I am now committed to cleanup the entire engine bay. Rust... YUCK. Better to take care of it now than later. BTW, this car was driven ONE winter, I wish that I never done that. What ever. it is what it is. I'll clean it all up and respray it.

- Edit -

Looks like it was battery acid that lifted the paint.

Spooler · 09-20-2019, 03:05 PM

That's nasty. Better to get it now then when it gets too bad.

Rusty · 09-20-2019, 04:08 PM

Make a solution of baking soda and water. Put it on the rust to neutralize the battery acid. Then wire brush and what ever else you want to do to the area.

gbrettin · 09-20-2019, 05:34 PM

It's actually surface and not bad it all. BUT it's still rust and it drives me nuts. I've got some paint buddies that can help me out. It will be done up right.

madwi · 09-22-2019, 02:36 AM

What are you having to hack off with the sawzall?

Rusty · 09-22-2019, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwi

What are you having to hack off with the sawzall?

Notch the sub-frame behind the rack & pinion for oil pan clearance.

gbrettin · 10-03-2019, 08:56 AM

Removed most of the false firewall, hacked out the brake lines, coolant and AC lines. I went a little deep on some of the pinch welds because it was my first time grinding a pinch weld. I'll need to go back and fill some of the holes with some welds and grind flat.

The false firewall had to come out because the valve covers were not clearing near the brake and battery compartment. I'm also hoping that there is enough room to reach down the side of the engine to work with spark plugs. I'd prefer not to lift the engine out every time.

On a side note. I'm starting to question my sanity doing all this... I literally took a perfectly working car and made a roller.

I guess it's a good thing I'm crazy.

Rusty · 10-03-2019, 09:34 AM

You may want to add some reinforcing to the frame after fitting the motor in.

gbrettin · 10-03-2019, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

You may want to add some reinforcing to the frame after fitting the motor in.

Bryan Settle just messaged me and told me to stitch weld the seams. I'll look into that as an option too.

Rusty · 10-03-2019, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

Bryan Settle just messaged me and told me to stitch weld the seams. I'll look into that as an option too.

Before welding. You have to remove the sealant between the metal sheets. Otherwise your welds will have holes in the bead.

madwi · 10-03-2019, 09:32 AM

Get that thing up and running before Oct 19th meetup!

Keep at it, man. You'll be all smiles when your tearing it up.

gbrettin · 10-03-2019, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwi

Get that thing up and running before Oct 19th meetup!

Keep at it, man. You'll be all smiles when your tearing it up.

I'll 100% be there in my Juke. lol

sirnixalot · 10-03-2019, 10:01 AM

Not to be a stick in the mud but I've seam welded 2 cars, have my own rotisserie and everything. I'll never do a 3rd and the sum of money that would change my mind no one would be willing to pay.

The wire wheeling (the wires flying off the wheel and sticking in whatever part of the body they hit), the using a carpet knife to get what the wire wheel couldn't, the spot weld drilling.....then there is the welding itself, ospho, etch prime, epoxy prime, re-seal and paint.

Did I mention the wire wheeling? That seam sealant comes off like a hot cobweb

The fire wall seams you have to do aren't too bad though. Just be careful about the fire wall insulation behind them. If the seam is an overlap which most are, welding one side doesn't help much, what I do in those situations when I can't get to the both sides is use a spot weld bit, drill through one panel and fill that with weld. Basically additional spot welds since it's joining the panel in the middle of the over lap and not just on one side

Rusty · 10-03-2019, 10:18 AM

The weld prep is a bitch. I welded part of one car. The only way I would do again is if it's a racecar and gutted. And someone prepped it. In a rotisserie so that you can do all the welding in the flat position.

09-15-2019, 02:28 PM	#1 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57456	No project is complete without breaking out the sawzall __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

09-20-2019, 02:26 PM	#2 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,304 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589452	Started to pick items off the false firewall for removal. Further inspection revealed that there's a bit of surface rust. I am now committed to cleanup the entire engine bay. Rust... YUCK. Better to take care of it now than later. BTW, this car was driven ONE winter, I wish that I never done that. What ever. it is what it is. I'll clean it all up and respray it. - Edit - Looks like it was battery acid that lifted the paint. Last edited by gbrettin; 09-20-2019 at 02:32 PM.

09-20-2019, 04:08 PM	#4 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	Make a solution of baking soda and water. Put it on the rust to neutralize the battery acid. Then wire brush and what ever else you want to do to the area. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-03-2019, 09:34 AM	#9 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	You may want to add some reinforcing to the frame after fitting the motor in. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

10-03-2019, 10:01 AM	#14 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57456	Not to be a stick in the mud but I've seam welded 2 cars, have my own rotisserie and everything. I'll never do a 3rd and the sum of money that would change my mind no one would be willing to pay. The wire wheeling (the wires flying off the wheel and sticking in whatever part of the body they hit), the using a carpet knife to get what the wire wheel couldn't, the spot weld drilling.....then there is the welding itself, ospho, etch prime, epoxy prime, re-seal and paint. Did I mention the wire wheeling? That seam sealant comes off like a hot cobweb The fire wall seams you have to do aren't too bad though. Just be careful about the fire wall insulation behind them. If the seam is an overlap which most are, welding one side doesn't help much, what I do in those situations when I can't get to the both sides is use a spot weld bit, drill through one panel and fill that with weld. Basically additional spot welds since it's joining the panel in the middle of the over lap and not just on one side __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap Last edited by sirnixalot; 10-03-2019 at 10:06 AM.

09-20-2019, 03:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,179 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684395	That's nasty. Better to get it now then when it gets too bad.

09-20-2019, 05:34 PM	#5 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,304 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589452	It's actually surface and not bad it all. BUT it's still rust and it drives me nuts. I've got some paint buddies that can help me out. It will be done up right.

09-22-2019, 02:36 AM	#6 (permalink)
madwi A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: West Michigan Posts: 31,410 Drives: Granma red Z Rep Power: 2684430	What are you having to hack off with the sawzall?

10-03-2019, 08:56 AM	#8 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,304 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589452	Removed most of the false firewall, hacked out the brake lines, coolant and AC lines. I went a little deep on some of the pinch welds because it was my first time grinding a pinch weld. I'll need to go back and fill some of the holes with some welds and grind flat. The false firewall had to come out because the valve covers were not clearing near the brake and battery compartment. I'm also hoping that there is enough room to reach down the side of the engine to work with spark plugs. I'd prefer not to lift the engine out every time. On a side note. I'm starting to question my sanity doing all this... I literally took a perfectly working car and made a roller. I guess it's a good thing I'm crazy.

10-03-2019, 09:32 AM	#12 (permalink)
madwi A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: West Michigan Posts: 31,410 Drives: Granma red Z Rep Power: 2684430	Get that thing up and running before Oct 19th meetup! Keep at it, man. You'll be all smiles when your tearing it up.

10-03-2019, 10:18 AM	#15 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,579 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	The weld prep is a bitch. I welded part of one car. The only way I would do again is if it's a racecar and gutted. And someone prepped it. In a rotisserie so that you can do all the welding in the flat position. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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