Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

THat would be fun to get an interview, but I get all ADHD on camera. I'd probably have to direct them to this thread so they can completely understand the depth.

"Why do you call it Swamp Juice?"

......" WELL.... funny story... (shed a tear as I say that)"

gbrettin

I'm elated how the rear wheel looks with the tire mounted and the size is slightly larger than the 19 (perfect). I don't think I've seen anyone do this type of configuration on their 370z so it might be a first, specifically bead locking a limited edition wheel.

I'm crazy until I pull it off, but I typically pull it off.

gbrettin

Both of my tie rods were bent from damage. I purchased two tie rods but JARBlue happened to have an entire steering rack. Jar sold that off to me (thanks bud). Reason I went this route was because I want complete faith that the steering rack doesn't have internal damage. I'd hate to put the engine in and then pull the engine back out. Despite the rack being new I decided to put Parts Shop Max solid bushings in. I hear they help with steering feel and the steering rack was already out... Why not.

I'm putting together for the solid bushings. It will be short form because there's not a lot to it.

Next up - I needed to change the cv flange for my Winters Quick Change. The previous owner built the diff to the moon and it can handle 2,000+hp in its current form. The cv flange that needs to go in are down grades for the DSS axels. Instead of getting custom DSS axels I decided to go a known path that works. I don't think there's a 370z setup that could break the downgraded setup anyway.

A beefy circlip is holding the cv axel in. I broke my pliers and had to order a beefy set to attempt getting the circlip off. Fun buying tools that I'll use twice.

My heads were completed at the machine shop and the machinest put in some work!. Heads were cleaned, reseated, valves cut, new valve guides, decked, BTR latest high rpm springs for 9k RPM, and titanium retainers. I honestly thought it was going to be 300 worth of work but ended up being nearly double. Not a great deal but it was fair.

Last thought. As I look at the calendar the thought of actually making Sick Week doesn't seem to be realistic. I'll keep plugging away at the build. I've been down this path a few times so my expectations are not high. It is what it is.

Mr&Mrs

I feel your pain on tools for one job. I had to get quite a few things for the current work I am doing as well. Takes away from mod money! Kind of the measure twice cut once process though. Id rather have extra things I may or may not use, than risk down time waiting on the tool to arrive after the work started. Or even worse struggling with something I should not be trying to use do the work in the first place lol

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Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

gbrettin

I had a pretty good time making this one. Quality of the over all video came out great. I had a few people give me some positive feedback. Too bad the video is demonetized for the music. Not like I make any money off them anyway. Do me a solid and leave a thumbs up if you actually liked it. I'm going to try making more videos. For some reason my subscriber count doubled while I did no videos. I'm taking that as a sign to keep going.

Mr&Mrs

Video was great! I am doing some this time around as well. You are natural at speaking with the camera. For me it is very awkward I am still not comfortable with it yet.

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Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

gbrettin

Well... I didn't know a steering sensor delete was an available option so I picked up one of them.
https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...Z33SSPSDF.html

I've been busy the last couple nights so I haven't completed the rear diff. BUT, the circlip beast pliers work. Even with that massive unit I could feel the resistance.

More to come.

gbrettin

I was able to get the new stub axels in. The stub axels and cover were put into the freezer for 24hrs. Lindsey, my lucky wife, found both items in the freezer and was so happy she took pictures for me. Turns out I didn't need the cover froze, it needed heat. I figured everything would contract but I thought wrong. After that course correction the stub axel went in super easy. What was a pain was that the bearings and shims were falling out when I tried putting the stub axels in the grove. Also, from the factory someone dinged up the grooves so it was harder than necessary. I used a file to clean the grooves up.

The quick change was given 75w-90 AMS Oil "Severe Gear". Gear oil stinks so bad... which is awesome when I overflowed the fill with 3qts and it ran all over the rubber may on my lift cart. I read on the internet it takes 4 and that it takes 15min for the oil to flow into different sections. So... I figured do 3 and let it flow and then take it easy on the 4th. Nope. 3.2 is all it takes.

I think that the diff is going to generate a lot of heat so I'm going to look into a diff cooler. Winters says that excess oil will generate a lot of heat so getting the oil right will be a big deal.

Loading the gears into the back was ridiculously easy. I suppose that's why Quick Changes are so expensive. Take note of the bearings in the rear cover and near the sub axels. Those were upgraded options that allows for the diff to spin easier. The diff spins much easier than OEM due to this.

Lastly, one of my carbon seats came in. They are so much lighter than the Juke seats. I've got to say... the Juke seats are still top notch. Weight and the seats being fixed back are the only reasons I got rid of the Juke seats. I'm super happy that I purchased the carbon seats in the end. It carries my theme useful excess... lol.

gbrettin

I just replaced a bunch of photos due to a snafu... Not going into those specifics. But I had to re-add photos from page 65 on. If you don't see a lot of photos with the associated text, that's why.

gbrettin

These pictures are a depiction of my mental state trying to install the steering sensor plug. Turns out I was turning the sensor the WRONG way. I figured that out after buying a pack of 3mm wrenches (rounded the edge) and then carved out a large area using my Metabo.

I wanted to block off the sensor because my fbody ps pump has a mechanical bypass. Don't need the extra wiring and I want to try keeping everything tidy where I can, if possible. Parts Shop Max sensor plug was used:
https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...Z33SSPSDF.html

SG4247

Where’d you get what is the snap ring tool?

I need one!

SG

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NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

gbrettin

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ42ASM

gbrettin

Picked up the Sikky rear subframe that has been in storage since early May. I paid for a few extras on the subframe which includes MA Motorsports anti squat brackets, Sikky Rear Subframe Bushings, Skid plate. I purchased DSS axels but I don't know if I went through Sikky for that. The Winters Quick Change is a 8500 series but I think it's listed as "Pro 1500 Spool Diff".

If you went through the options... on Sikky you can see that it gets pricy quick. I clearly didn't get this stuff over night. It was certainly a slow grind. I also have a box of SPL parts and Import Drag Solution rear coil over shocks that all need to get put on the subframe. I'll be quite honest... I'm not sure how all these parts go on exactly. Kind of a common theme with my build. Which is odd when people hit me up on IG or FB asking for build advice... I tend to point people asking to more knowledgeable people.

I had a conversation with Bullseye Turbo about getting different exhaust housings for my car, specifically vbands. WOW, the casts are expensive... like 500 per. Reason why I checked into those is because I'm considering moving my turbos inboard directly infront of the exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking that this move will reduce the exhaust charge tube and clean up the charge pipes. I'd likely want to face the turbo inducers toward the middle of the engine so that I can capture air. What about heat from the radiator? is likely going through your head... or it should be. The large CSF radiator will likely be removed and two small king radiators placed where the turbos were previously. Radiator placement is still up in the air to be honest.

One thing that made me laugh about my build is the realization that my car has more American made parts than a lot of domestic vehicles.

TMI update? I dunno.

On a side note... I'm very much considering buying a scanner and 3D printer to make some smaller bespoke parts for my build. I feel like that's a missing component to making components for my car.

gbrettin

Dug into the Sikky Subframe and Winters. No instructions came with it but it was fairly easy to figure out what was happening. The solid subframe slugs need to be loaded so I need to double check if there's a specific direction they need to face up or down.

Stopped by someone I know that has a 3d scanner and he did a quick scan of my cubby mount. It was pretty awesome. The cubby was dusted with baby powder mixture and then scanned. I also brought my Nismo v1 plastic and that was scanned too. I need a new under plastic and so does he, so it's a win win. We're talking about releasing the .STL file to the wild so people can print their own at some point and have a donation bucket out if people feel like donating.

Rusty

The sub frame bushing go in from the bottom. Here's my thread on the install.

SPL Rear Sub-Frame Bushings

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html