Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

danegrey

I find what you do is amazing, since that is not one of my skill sets..
keep up the good work....

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Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

Ghostvette

It's coming together.

I'm in awe of someone that can cut straight lines with snips. I struggle with a radial arm saw.....

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

gbrettin

Appreciate the positive vibes Danegrey!

This is the first time I have done this. I wouldn't call this a skill set. My build is slow because I have to give thought to each component (and even mess-up after that). That's why I value all the feedback from people who have done items like this before.

I have watched an excessive amount of YouTube DIY stuff and have been around when my buddy has hacked up their race car and then build something better. There's that. Hands on is wildly different.

Since this is all pretty much new... I think that's why I take pictures, video and document everything.

gbrettin

Did some measurements on the top corner of my air box. Looks like it will be a challenge. Eh, what's new.

I'm also looking to make a mount for my bumper so that it doesn't droop onto the crash bar/radiator mount. I'm going to try making a tab out of polycarbonate tab. The tab will be glued to the bumper and then that will slide into a slip on receiver. If that makes no sense... think of a trailer hitch and how that slides on. Same concept. I'm not really worried about locking it into place because there will be other spots for that using Quik-latch. Why not use a Quik-latch on the nose of the bumper? well, that would look odd IMO.

gbrettin

Finished up the top air box. 9hours today getting it hammered out. I'm exhausted. Only thing not shown in the pictures very well is the seem filler I did at the end of the night. Let me know if you have any questions.

gbrettin

Wrapped up the bottom sides of the box. I just need to fasten it down. The bottom side was supposed to be "easy"... at least that's what I told myself. One whole day was dedicated to making a template. It was pretty ridiculous. Working the aluminum only took a few hours by comparison.

I also snapped a picture of how the top was sealed up on the bottom side. After all the bends, rivets and mounting... the ducting is really strong considering how thin the sheets were.

gbrettin

I stabbed the last bit of rivets in today and then hooked everything back up for cold side plumbing. I was starting to get manic about the gaps today on the crash bar but decided I could easily tape everything off with foil tape, it's not like the cooling system will go in and out non stop... I hope not anyway. It can also be welded up a little down the road. To be honest, I feel like moving on to a different part of my build now. Two months was plenty working on the radiator and crash bar.

The end result does no justice to how much of a b1tch the process was.

Looking at the pluming for the A2W... it looks like the piping will need to be an X so that there will be a common air supply between both banks. I think the placement of the A2W in the picture will be a similar placement. perhaps it will be kicked up at an angle. First thing that will happen is making a mount for the inter coolers. It certainly feels like I've already been down this road before... lol

OH, one last thought. The -20 line will be converted to hard line. Current placement will be sawed through by the corner of the airbox.

ONE final final thought... I burnt the absolute donkey p1ss out of my thumb. Melted plastic was still hot when I hit it with my thumb.

madwi

Great pic.

madwi

Good call on moving on to avoid the burn out.

gbrettin

I took a few days off of work to wrap up the radiator setup. I'm glad I did, it would have been terrible to attempt doing the templates and metal work over a series of days starting then stopping like I normally do. Now don't get me wrong... I really liked doing all the metal work and welding... but there is some anxiety around doing the work because I'm so darn green at it. Thankfully, the persistence paid off in this scenario because it would have sucked to have another flop like the hood mold that I tried back in February this year.

This probably wont come as a shocker to any of you.... but I'm already thinking of a version 2 vmount down the road. Going through the process, with anything, gives the hind sight adjustments. I'm thinking carbon fiber airbox that mounts into a a chromoly crashbar.

Main point, I have something that will be functional now. Yes. I was 100% getting burnt out. I'm getting a surge of motivation for the next pats of the build.


Well since I'm in the rambling mood.

My low profile filters came in yesterday, I ordered them on Aug 3rd. Good thing I didn't need them! gesh.

Here's my short list of what I want to work on next:

1: Clearview oil filter mounted and make list of fittings.
2: Mount A2W IC and start plumbing.
3: Start pulling fuel line.

The Clearview needs will go where the battery use to be. I'll look into an access panel that can be welded in (yay! new skill put to use). Come to think of it... I can also break some metal to fit it too. I guess these skills come around in the long run.

I'll keep my thread updated... Always do. Again, thanks for following this wild a$$ process.

gbrettin

SO... My 1" K&N filters came in... AND, they are too big. MAN, I was extra salty a few days ago. What ever... I have a better idea for the turbo inlets now. Air boxes will be fitted into the left and right side of the bumper, then I will draw air from the carbon fiber ducts (ex-brake ducts). I'll do that way down the road. For now turbos will get Turbo guards.

Created the mounts for the A2W. Metal break came in handy getting the 90's and 45's. The rear mount needed to have huge holes cut out, well... They didn't need to be huge, I just wanted it that way. The front mount was a V shape that locks the two IC's together. the IC's will also have aluminum plate welded into the mid section to seal them together. A single 1" bung will feed the two and then half inch line's will come out of the left and right sides. The positioning of the inter coolers would not allow for 90 bungs and I really couldn't put the IC's at any other angle.

Last thing I did was start the IC piping to the intakes.

JARblue

Work with what you got! G, you are a beast on this build. And going to end up with a MONSTER! Love it, brother

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gbrettin

Picked up some remanet aluminum, .800 thickness, for 21 bucks at Alro Steel. It was scuffed and banged, but I do not care at that price. The aluminum will be used to plate off the center section of the intercoolers so I can run a single 1" feed into the back side.

The plate section was done with two pieces of aluminum so that there would be slightly less welding. There's a small gap where the pieces meet but that's really no problem. A little length was left on the aluminum to bang over towards the joint. I didn't want to hammer it over until a few tacks were done.

Normally a metal sheer would be used to make a crisp cut. I do not have one of those... SO... death wheel it gets. The good news is that I'm fairly steady with my cuts so it's pretty damn straight. You be the judge.

If you notice the "U" missing off the intercoolers (well you will now), they have been ripped off. I wasn't loving the look of how it would all work. I'm going to pie cut the whole intake.... YAY. Well, Ask me again tomorrow and you might get a different answer.

I talked to the fella making my pan and he said he just ordered the bungs for the pan, I told him I'm using AN lines for my remote oil filter. Looks like I need to get rolling on the remote oil filter lines and placement sooner than later! Not a bad problem to have.

Other things ordered in the last couple days....

3 -20 bungs for the hard line (ordered 1 extra... because... you have seen my work)
WIX oil filter for the Clearview filter
Oil pressure sensor for the valley pan
1" bung for the back of the plate.

Rusty

I had a fiber cut off wheel blow up on me yesterday. It was a 4" wheel on my 1/4" die grinder. The back of my hand got the worst of it. Glad I had a glove on that hand.

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Group C Driver, After Mods-334HP-279Tor. STD.|F.I. LTH|CBE/12" Resonators|Stillen Gen3|285/35-19, 345/30-19 Mich PSS on 9.5x19 and 12x19 ForgeLine Rims, Nismo RC Brake Ducts,|UpRev Tuned|http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Dang Rusty! Glad you're ok. I've been wearing gloves working with the grinder. I'm getting sick of bleeding at the shop from various cuts.

I opened up the wheel well for an access panel to change the filter. Didn't finish. Messing with the odd angles kind of threw me off. The brake booster will be swapped out for a Wilwood setup.