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Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

I stabbed the last bit of rivets in today and then hooked everything back up for cold side plumbing. I was starting to get manic about the gaps today on

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Old 10-04-2020, 07:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I stabbed the last bit of rivets in today and then hooked everything back up for cold side plumbing. I was starting to get manic about the gaps today on the crash bar but decided I could easily tape everything off with foil tape, it's not like the cooling system will go in and out non stop... I hope not anyway. It can also be welded up a little down the road. To be honest, I feel like moving on to a different part of my build now. Two months was plenty working on the radiator and crash bar.

The end result does no justice to how much of a b1tch the process was.

Looking at the pluming for the A2W... it looks like the piping will need to be an X so that there will be a common air supply between both banks. I think the placement of the A2W in the picture will be a similar placement. perhaps it will be kicked up at an angle. First thing that will happen is making a mount for the inter coolers. It certainly feels like I've already been down this road before... lol

OH, one last thought. The -20 line will be converted to hard line. Current placement will be sawed through by the corner of the airbox.

ONE final final thought... I burnt the absolute donkey p1ss out of my thumb. Melted plastic was still hot when I hit it with my thumb.
















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Old 10-04-2020, 10:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great pic.
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good call on moving on to avoid the burn out.
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madwi View Post
Good call on moving on to avoid the burn out.
I took a few days off of work to wrap up the radiator setup. I'm glad I did, it would have been terrible to attempt doing the templates and metal work over a series of days starting then stopping like I normally do. Now don't get me wrong... I really liked doing all the metal work and welding... but there is some anxiety around doing the work because I'm so darn green at it. Thankfully, the persistence paid off in this scenario because it would have sucked to have another flop like the hood mold that I tried back in February this year.

This probably wont come as a shocker to any of you.... but I'm already thinking of a version 2 vmount down the road. Going through the process, with anything, gives the hind sight adjustments. I'm thinking carbon fiber airbox that mounts into a a chromoly crashbar.

Main point, I have something that will be functional now. Yes. I was 100% getting burnt out. I'm getting a surge of motivation for the next pats of the build.


Well since I'm in the rambling mood.

My low profile filters came in yesterday, I ordered them on Aug 3rd. Good thing I didn't need them! gesh.

Here's my short list of what I want to work on next:

1: Clearview oil filter mounted and make list of fittings.
2: Mount A2W IC and start plumbing.
3: Start pulling fuel line.

The Clearview needs will go where the battery use to be. I'll look into an access panel that can be welded in (yay! new skill put to use). Come to think of it... I can also break some metal to fit it too. I guess these skills come around in the long run.

I'll keep my thread updated... Always do. Again, thanks for following this wild a$$ process.
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Old 10-10-2020, 06:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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SO... My 1" K&N filters came in... AND, they are too big. MAN, I was extra salty a few days ago. What ever... I have a better idea for the turbo inlets now. Air boxes will be fitted into the left and right side of the bumper, then I will draw air from the carbon fiber ducts (ex-brake ducts). I'll do that way down the road. For now turbos will get Turbo guards.

Created the mounts for the A2W. Metal break came in handy getting the 90's and 45's. The rear mount needed to have huge holes cut out, well... They didn't need to be huge, I just wanted it that way. The front mount was a V shape that locks the two IC's together. the IC's will also have aluminum plate welded into the mid section to seal them together. A single 1" bung will feed the two and then half inch line's will come out of the left and right sides. The positioning of the inter coolers would not allow for 90 bungs and I really couldn't put the IC's at any other angle.

Last thing I did was start the IC piping to the intakes.










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Old 10-10-2020, 07:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Work with what you got! G, you are a beast on this build. And going to end up with a MONSTER! Love it, brother
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Old 10-15-2020, 01:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Picked up some remanet aluminum, .800 thickness, for 21 bucks at Alro Steel. It was scuffed and banged, but I do not care at that price. The aluminum will be used to plate off the center section of the intercoolers so I can run a single 1" feed into the back side.

The plate section was done with two pieces of aluminum so that there would be slightly less welding. There's a small gap where the pieces meet but that's really no problem. A little length was left on the aluminum to bang over towards the joint. I didn't want to hammer it over until a few tacks were done.

Normally a metal sheer would be used to make a crisp cut. I do not have one of those... SO... death wheel it gets. The good news is that I'm fairly steady with my cuts so it's pretty damn straight. You be the judge.

If you notice the "U" missing off the intercoolers (well you will now), they have been ripped off. I wasn't loving the look of how it would all work. I'm going to pie cut the whole intake.... YAY. Well, Ask me again tomorrow and you might get a different answer.

I talked to the fella making my pan and he said he just ordered the bungs for the pan, I told him I'm using AN lines for my remote oil filter. Looks like I need to get rolling on the remote oil filter lines and placement sooner than later! Not a bad problem to have.

Other things ordered in the last couple days....

3 -20 bungs for the hard line (ordered 1 extra... because... you have seen my work)
WIX oil filter for the Clearview filter
Oil pressure sensor for the valley pan
1" bung for the back of the plate.












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Old 10-15-2020, 08:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a fiber cut off wheel blow up on me yesterday. It was a 4" wheel on my 1/4" die grinder. The back of my hand got the worst of it. Glad I had a glove on that hand.
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Dang Rusty! Glad you're ok. I've been wearing gloves working with the grinder. I'm getting sick of bleeding at the shop from various cuts.

I opened up the wheel well for an access panel to change the filter. Didn't finish. Messing with the odd angles kind of threw me off. The brake booster will be swapped out for a Wilwood setup.







Last edited by gbrettin; 10-17-2020 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 10-19-2020, 03:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The clearview has been mounted. There are two mounts. one that mounts to the wheel well and one that the clearview mount hooks into. I probably could have just welded the metal to the fender, but I thought I wanted options for the future.

Welding the plate in was a PITA. The plate was hard to fasten down and then tack. The plate shifted slightly after I made a few tacks which required me to fill some gap. Well, while I was filling gaps I started making new holes on shock tower. My swear words used in the weld session was about as big as the weld on the shock tower. I'm not really worried about the massive amount of weld TBH. I ground down 90% of it with 60grit. The amount of metal dust created in the shop was substantial.

The access hole needs to be opened up a bit more, 2 inches of the filter doesn't clear.

Aside from that... I have hose and fittings coming from Motion Raceworks. AND..... I just remembered I need to hook up my oil cooler... Piss... I probably needed to order more hose and fittings. GD it. Actually, I think I have some hose left over. WHEW!

On a side note, I picked up another hood from Scott, well actually Damian's old hood. Thanks guys!











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Old 10-19-2020, 04:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Do let us know how you're gonna get the 115 lbs of soundproofing off the hood lol. Typical EW: buys race car, thinks engine too loud.

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Old 10-19-2020, 05:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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When Madwi had the 4th of July get together. We was going to use that hood for target practice.
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Old 10-19-2020, 06:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Man, I am so glad that hood is gone. I watched the news for a story of a hood that flew off the top of a suburban and decapitated a bus load of nuns. Thankfully it looks like it made the trip South unscathed.
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm surprised you guys didn't use it for target practice! lol

I told Kirk that if the hood flies off.... we keep going.

The hood will be my backup for Carbon Fiber. I need to hack my hood up for air vents and also mold humps with fiber glass. You know what. Maybe I'll stick with aluminum? I've got options and I'm not afraid to use them.

While writing that out... it makes sense that I start with the OEM hood and then push to CF later. I'm embarrassed to say how many ideas I get from typing out what I did previously.

On a side note, we're getting pretty close to the realm of starting the car.... Pending I don't have any A.D.D squirrel moments and start some side projects on the car. I'd say close is about 1 -1.5 months... My excitement is through the rough just typing that.
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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One and done kind of night. Put a layer of fiberglass on to smooth out the terrible. I told my wife I wouldn't be at the shop all night. This worked out pretty good since it needs to dry.

The metal was prepped with cleaner and then I mixed way too much fiberglass resin. The first coat looks thick, but it's not a ton on there.

Inside the wheel well the metal was sprayed with epoxy primer. At the end of this, I will drop the K-member and spray bed liner on the inside of the wheel well.


Last edited by gbrettin; 10-21-2020 at 10:33 AM.
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