JLarson's build thread

[JLarson]

Weekend update - installed the RJM 3.3 pedal, replacing the 3.1 version, and more importantly the Tilton HD CMC. I've seen very few (0) writeups on the Tilton CMC from a user perspective, and want to capture the... experience... while it's fresh in my mind.

For background, I had been using the RJM 3.1 pedal already. It's an excellent mod, I just happened to find a 3.3 with Tilton CMC for a good deal, and pulled the trigger.

Without giving too much detail, the 3.3 does have some significant improvements over the 3.1, most notably in the clevis pin design (picture 2). I'll try to get some decent pictures showing the difference in a future post.

The Tilton HD CMC is very different from the oem, both substantially shorter and entirely metal. Unlike the OEM CMC, it mounts from the drivers side footwell, not the engine bay. You'll have to trim back the carpet around the CMC slot, slide the new master cylinder into place, and use an aluminum bracket/spacer inside the drivers footwell. You'll use a 2nd spacer bracket in the engine bay, and a 3rd bracket bolts all of it together. This is a huge pain in the ***.

The spacers are cut in half - both in the engine bay, and in the footwell - with each half fitting around part of the master cylinder. I can conclude that the ideal candidate for this install possesses 4 arms, and is able to dislocate his shoulders. In the drivers side footwell, you'll be lying on your side, trying to orient the master cylinder and pin the spacer brackets in place (this was my job). In the engine bay, you'll need a trusted friend (who you are willing to lose as a friend forever) aligning the split bracket pieces, and the bracket that holds the brackets, so that you can slide bolts through the holes set for the OEM CMC. This was Craig the Blessed's job. This is somewhat complicated by the poor visibility you'll have while trying to align the holes. Once that's done, it's a simple matter to connect the new stainless steel line to a brass fitting in the driver's side wheel well, and reinstall the original reservoir.

You'll also need to bleed the clutch down to the brass fitting (which, btw, went really smoothly now that I have an idea of what I'm doing).

Picture 1 shows the new lines with the kit, picture 2 shows the clevis revision, picture 3 shows just a bit of the drivers side adapter plate/spacer underneath the RJM pedal, and picture 4 hints at the agony of the engine bay spacer and bracket.

As far as feedback - pedal feel improves substantially. My release point is higher and more consistent, and pedal effort is reduced. I'd recommend this mod, but be aware you will need either a helper OR a great deal more ingenuity than I possess.