JLarson's build thread

[JLarson]

Things started off smoothly. I had nothing frozen up; my caliper bolts came loose easily, and my rotors required only moderate persuasion with a dead blow hammer. I was naturally suspicious (see picture of me looking suspicious).

Removing the axle nut was interesting only in that it requires a 32mm socket, which I did not have. My wife was very fortunately shopping for groceries near an Autozone, so a quick text message solved that problem (my hardware angel delivered swiftly).

You can see the deformed cap sitting on the axle nut. This was quick and easy to replace. Lubed up with fresh grease, maneuvered the new one in place, bent the cotter pin appropriately, done.

Edited: here's the link to the DIY. FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

[JLarson]

I'd already freed the calipers by the time my wife arrived with the socket, so I was ready to release my brake pads quickly and easily!

Brake pads, why for you no come out?!?! The frigging pins in the calipers were so warped and covered with brake dust and corrosion that it was a multi hour process to get them loose. It was complicated a little bit further by the learning curve -took me a few minutes to figure out that I actually needed to take those pins out to release the brake pads. So that's something I know now.

What I ended up doing was removing the cotter pin, pushing a drill bit through the bottom while unscrewing from the top, then once one end came free, gripping with needle nose pliers and pulling. Is there an easier way to do this or a better trick? It worked, but it was a very tedious process. This part should not have (but did) take me multiple hours, and it's not my first brake job.

Getting the fresh pins, plates, and brake pads in place was comparably easy. No pictures, you all know what that looks like I'm sure.

[JLarson]

At this point, my in-laws showed up with my nephew, so I had about a 2 hour break (there was also a brief but torrential downpour during that time so it was convenient). Moved my stuff back in the garage, wrapped the sensitive parts of the QJ in plastic, and walked my nephew through basic weight lifting. It went well - he almost fell down stairs after squats, so he did it right.

By now, it's way later than I'd hoped, and I haven't started the stainless steel lines. I gave that a quick attempt, but I'm having trouble breaking loose the existing lines. Ok, losing daylight, that's going to have to wait for another day.

Put the rotors back on, calipers in place. Ran through the DIY using the Motive Power Bleeder and the Longacre bottle. Simple! Maybe I should've used this kind of setup for bleeding my clutch? Hmm. Experienced people welcome to chime in. (DIY here - DIY: How to Bleed Your Brake Fluid Using Motive Power Bleeder 0117 (AK370Z))

Pics of finished product, front and rear. Don't mind my stock rims, they'll be replaced when I go to something wider for FI.

Bedded in the brake pads yesterday. Drove to work today. Everything does what it should, the way it should. Feels firm and responsive.

[Spooler]

Originally Posted by JLarson

I'd already freed the calipers by the time my wife arrived with the socket, so I was ready to release my brake pads quickly and easily!

Brake pads, why for you no come out?!?! The frigging pins in the calipers were so warped and covered with brake dust and corrosion that it was a multi hour process to get them loose. It was complicated a little bit further by the learning curve -took me a few minutes to figure out that I actually needed to take those pins out to release the brake pads. So that's something I know now.

What I ended up doing was removing the cotter pin, pushing a drill bit through the bottom while unscrewing from the top, then once one end came free, gripping with needle nose pliers and pulling. Is there an easier way to do this or a better trick? It worked, but it was a very tedious process. This part should not have (but did) take me multiple hours, and it's not my first brake job.

Getting the fresh pins, plates, and brake pads in place was comparably easy. No pictures, you all know what that looks like I'm sure.

Next time push in on middle of the pad keeper to take the stress off of the pin. The pin will slide out with a twisting motion with no issues. It will bind up if you do not press it and cause the issue that you had. I use a flat tipped screw driver and needle nose pliers for the twisting motion on the pin. It is best to take the pads out while the caliper is still mounted to the car.

[JLarson]

Originally Posted by Spooler

Next time push in on middle of the pad keeper to take the stress off of the pin. The pin will slide out with a twisting motion with no issues. It will bind up if you do not press it and cause the issue that you had. I use a flat tipped screw driver and needle nose pliers for the twisting motion on the pin. It is best to take the pads out while the caliper is still mounted to the car.

Thanks Spooler! Good to know!

[Spooler]

Originally Posted by JLarson

Thanks Spooler! Good to know!

NP, they can be a pain in the butt sometimes but once you get the basic's it is not bad.

[Rusty]

If you want to clean the pins up. Chuck the ends up in a drill and use scotch brite as you spin the pin.