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Originally Posted by sirnixalot How could I possibly goof a rear main seal I asked myself. Turns out my only goof was not checking the crank before installing the first

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Old 09-07-2019, 01:18 AM   #181 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirnixalot View Post
How could I possibly goof a rear main seal I asked myself. Turns out my only goof was not checking the crank before installing the first seal.


So those 2 blobs of silicone left on the crank were pressing on the soft lip of the seal as the crank spun, just letting all the oil out.

My brother being the ******* MVP that he is came over after work to help me drop the transmission, inspect everything and reinstall it.

Thinking I might email AAM about it but I doubt I'll get anywhere.

Anyway that saga is over. I also solved the intercooler piping issue. I've got some stuff left to tighten under the car, the front end to install and the interior to clean up.

I may strike up the ambition to pull the fuel pump assembly again to see whats up with the level sender.
This is, honestly, an inspiration

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Old 09-07-2019, 07:34 AM   #182 (permalink)
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Thanks. It's been a long road but it's almost over.
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Old 09-07-2019, 02:37 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Intakes are welded up. 2.5 hrs until I can go home to try. Why is this day at work so long
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Old 09-08-2019, 09:56 AM   #184 (permalink)
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Spoke too soon lol

I have 4 codes and 1 in particular has me stumped

P0010
P0020
cam position actuators open

P0030 Heater control bank 1 O2 sensor

Now for the head scratcher. P0040 which means I have the primary O2 connectors swapped between banks. That is physically impossible to me since the primary O2 connectors are up high by the valve covers and the O2 sensor harnesses cannot reach to opposite sides of the motor
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Old 09-09-2019, 03:39 PM   #185 (permalink)
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*edit*brb getting non potato video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCq7dRX70rE


A little start up/idle. The car is pretty quiet I must say with the 4" exhaust.

I am not very sociable in the video sorry, I'm googling the ODB2 codes and full of frustration
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Old 09-10-2019, 08:49 AM   #186 (permalink)
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So the P0030 and specifically the P0040 codes are causing limp mode and P0010 & P0020 codes (VVEL actuators open circuit).

P0030 is Bank 1 primary O2 heater open circuit
P0040 is Bank 1 primary O2 signal reading Bank 2 readings

Seeing as there is no way for me to physically connect the primary O2 sensors to the wrong plug and the open circuit for the heater, I have a short somewhere.

I was so busy chasing the VVEL issue checking continuity between the motors, VVEL ecu & relay (all of which were good) only to sit down and re-read the code descriptions to see that P0040 will put the car in limp mode.

So switching focus to the O2 sensor, things I have tried so far are as follows
All O2 sensors are brand new
Swapped Bank 1's sensor for the old stock one, same result

Tonight after work I'll be checking continuity between bank 1's O2 and the ecu
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:52 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirnixalot View Post
*edit*brb getting non potato video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=https://youtu.be/iCq7dRX70rE
I can never get the embedding to work

https://youtu.be/iCq7dRX70rE

A little start up/idle. The car is pretty quiet I must say with the 4" exhaust.

I am not very sociable in the video sorry, I'm googling the ODB2 codes and full of frustration
All you have to do is put the video ID between the youtube tags. Like this:
bracket Youtube] video ID [/youtube]
Your videos ID is iCq7dRX70rE. When we put the ID between the tags it looks like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCq7dRX70rE
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:35 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Lesson learned. The Ecutek bluetooth app DTC function is not to be trusted.

*edit* I rescind this comment. I had the app in demo mode.

I was trouble shooting codes that didn't exist. Used the laptop and got a P0193. Turns out water got into bank 2's VVEL motor.

Cleaned it out and and resynched the position sensors with the Ecutek logger and it revs like a dream now.

Tomorrow is bumper on and to reinstall all the plastic clips and give it a wash. Thursday is tuning time
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:51 AM   #189 (permalink)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEG7FHGDa0c

Thanks Mawdi
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:20 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Got the AC charged up and got the rings seated, it's gone from 14-15 inches of vacuum at idle and engine braking to 19-20.

Got a few tune revisions done as well and for basically no timing and hitting 14psi boost cut at 5k rpm it made 480whp and 515wtq on virtual dyno.

This car is going to be nuts
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:24 AM   #191 (permalink)
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Well these Achilles ATR Sport 2's are just not gonna cut it I mean I knew that but confirming the hypothesis is entertaining. I am going to need to get some tires to tune on since I am trying to do the WOT pulls in 3rd gear. There is only one road here to do a 4th gear pull on which the **** tires might survive but I don't know if I have the testicular fortitude for that.

Husam has the boost cut set to 15psi and keep in mind this is on wastegate only.


I am pretty sure these aftermarket actuators are 18psi. I have them adjusted with almost no preload and they are still climbing. Looks like there wont be any need for different boost levels
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:37 PM   #192 (permalink)
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My suspicions were incorrect, they are 1bar actuators.

So we are only a few revisions in on pump gas with our equally hectic schedules and I couldn’t be happier. The car starts like stock and is super smooth. Transition into boost is also smooth and since the wastegates taper so linearly power delivery is predictable for now.

I am excited to finalize the pump gas and move onto the MS109 tune. Flex fuel is in the works but I don’t have the fuel system to support more than 600.

Goals are 500whp on pump, whatever it will make on x85 and if by some miracle 700whp on MS109.
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:45 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Pour one out for the passenger side turbo Mid pull I heard a loud screech and then lots of white smoke. The motor isn't hurt.

Spoke with FP and I'll be sending both to get rebuilt. Their suspicion is the break in material in the oil. I'll be redoing the oil feed on the passenger side to be fed from the little distribution block I made, this will allow me to use one of their filters to protect both turbos. That location allows the filter to be easily accessible to clean.

I wanna tell you, up until that point holy screaming sheep ****. Rolling into the throttle in 3rd and it just starts roasting these poor Achilles.

What I have to do now is get the car in the air (again!) to drop the motor. I am going to try and do it by lowering the whole subframe this time.
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Old Yesterday, 07:16 AM   #194 (permalink)
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Was the drivers side actually. My hearing is going bad.



Anyway I emailed FP some pictures yesterday of the turbos and these are first generation greens. Garrett ball bearing chra and turbine wheel with their 68hta compressor.

They can still repair them but I’m asking if it makes sense to get new ones since I have to ship them from and back. I don’t want to send them and that one is irreparable.
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Old Yesterday, 07:51 PM   #195 (permalink)
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For those of us that may use this as a reference for a future turbo install, what would you say the takeaway is?

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