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Dragonbreaths Z build

Originally Posted by jwick Go back to strippin' I need to work on my routine. Apparently the helicopter isn't a very impressive move these days...

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Old 04-21-2015, 11:11 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwick View Post
Go back to strippin'
I need to work on my routine. Apparently the helicopter isn't a very impressive move these days...
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:12 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I got around to playing with the tune finally. I was having some hardcore issues with running lean under drivability. Under light acceleration it could see some 17 or 18 afr spots. Mostly high 15 or low 16 if it wasn't regular. This resulted in p0300 being thrown a lot. Got inside and cleaned it up. The car drives so much better.

I still need to figure out what the deal is with my clutch system. I have re-bled it twice and am still getting where it wants to not fully disengage intermittently. Sometimes its fine, sometimes I get resistance. Im convinced that whatever the noise is that my transmission is making is not affecting the car, which is good. Its just annoying having to hear it tick lol.
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:09 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Weeelllll, the Z is dead again lol. My genius slave cylinder solution wasn't so genius after all. It blew. So Im going to order another from ZSpeed since that one seems to be more resilient than everything else.

So 2 things:

I need to have the car towed from my work to my house. Whats the best way to go about that since I dont have a tow hitch anymore? Im lowered on Swifts as well. Im thinking my only option is to have them grab it from the back by the subframe somehow. Take off my front bumper first for some more front end clearance while loading. Any better ideas?

Also Im going to cut my transmission harness and put a connector in it so it will be easier to remove the transmission. I have taken this thing out more times than I can remember, and this will just make it easier for the next time . Any recommendations for a good connector and pins, as in where I can find some?
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:44 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dragonbreath View Post
Still having some issues. The first thing is sometimes its hard to get the transmission in gear. Mostly in 1st from a stop. Even while driving, the gear box is very very clunky. Im thinking either A) whatever the noise is in the transmission is causing this, or B) My slave cylinder needs to be bled again. Ill try plan b first as it will be the easiest and free fix.

My second issue is my tune. Because I changed up some of the routing on the intercooler piping, specifically the pipes from the turbo to the intercooler, the drivability has become somewhat loopy. Im getting lean codes and misfire codes. When stopping after first starting to drive the car, the car will die. Sometimes after I drive the car and try to start it again shortly after, the car will start and die immediately. Ill have to give it a little throttle to keep it alive enough to act right.

Anyway, after doing some thinking, I'm pretty sure that I won't drive this car on a track. Lots of reasons (excuses) why, but I'm sure it won't happen. I would much rather get another car to track. With that being said, I'm debating on selling my CJM RRP and buying an Aeromotive 340lph to replace it. It would simplify the fuel system a bit and I won't feel like I'm wasting the RRP. Any input on that? The hardest driving that I will do will be the dragon at ZDayZ. Anyone have any issues driving that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonbreath View Post
Weeelllll, the Z is dead again lol. My genius slave cylinder solution wasn't so genius after all. It blew. So Im going to order another from ZSpeed since that one seems to be more resilient than everything else.

So 2 things:

I need to have the car towed from my work to my house. Whats the best way to go about that since I dont have a tow hitch anymore? Im lowered on Swifts as well. Im thinking my only option is to have them grab it from the back by the subframe somehow. Take off my front bumper first for some more front end clearance while loading. Any better ideas?

Also Im going to cut my transmission harness and put a connector in it so it will be easier to remove the transmission. I have taken this thing out more times than I can remember, and this will just make it easier for the next time . Any recommendations for a good connector and pins, as in where I can find some?

Ish...after catching up and digging, I now see why this motor went :-\ The car definitely should not have been continued to be driven with these A/F ratios. Even under mild boost, you would completely be leaning the car out which is the #1 reason these motors tend to go w/ forced induction.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:01 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:47 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Dragonbreaths Z build

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Originally Posted by 1cleanZ View Post
Ish...after catching up and digging, I now see why this motor went :-\ The car definitely should not have been continued to be driven with these A/F ratios. Even under mild boost, you would completely be leaning the car out which is the #1 reason these motors tend to go w/ forced induction.

The lean issues were only under very light load and between 2k-2500 rpms. Light load meaning literally barely pressing the pedal. Under WOT the tune was spot on. I also got those issues resolved after ZDayZ last May as well. Under boost it was actually running on the rich side to ensure that I wouldn't teeter the line of rich/lean.
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